Lots of photos of our insulation retrofit project

[dan_aka_jack]

Ultimate can of worms eh ?

Exactly!

I need to learn a bit more about the one wire sensors -

Why do they have 2 wires ?
Where do you get the sensors from ?
What do you use to read display the temperatures ?

The temperature sensors can be run on two wires (ground and data).  In this mode they pull their power from the data line which is a clever trick but can cause instability and certainly reduces the maximum read rate. As I understand it, it's advisable to run them on three wires (ground, +5v, data).

I got my 1-wire kit from HomeChip

I plan to monitor the sensors using a USB 1-wire dongle (also available from HomeChip) and some free logging software.  I think Ken's had success using an Arundo to log the 1-wire data but you'll have to ask him about that.

[stannn]

That blog was so well presented and read like a book. I understood all of it in one pass and it brought back memories of my own internal insulation work on my stone cottage. I did wonder why you did not fit a concrete floor with deep-insulated overlay once you realised that the wooden floor had to be replaced.

[Ted]

Well done Jack, excellent work. I'm trying to build up the courage to start my own solid wall internal insulation project right now.

Did you consider using mechanical ventilation for the floor void/wall cavity or are you happy to just let the wind blow through there?

[dan_aka_jack]

Did you consider using mechanical ventilation for the floor void/wall cavity or are you happy to just let the wind blow through there?

Hmmm... I hadn't considered adding mechanical ventilation to keep the void well ventilated.

I am planning to put an extractor fan in the corner of the room furthest from the external walls and use this fan to bring cool air into the room on hot days (the idea being that the earth under the floor has a huge thermal mass and the surface of the earth probably wont heat up much beyond 20 degrees C, even on really hot days).  The underfloor void is connected to the wall void.

I must admit I'm a little worried about how successful my air bricks will be at keeping the cavity well ventilated, which is one reason why I wanted to put sensors back there (I wanted to put a humidity sensor burried in the void but I heard from several people that the £40 1-wire humidity sensor fails after about 2 years).

[leethomas]

let me add my congrats to a job well done. I did a similar thing a decade ago and not nearly so well.

A few points for the debate.

I guess you knew what you were taking on originally? if not  you may be able to get a cheque from your surveyor!

I used "delta membrane" product - which is a sort of corrugated plastic 1 cm or so deep - which acts as the cavity and damp proofing in one and saves space. I d recommend it if you took on a similar project again!

Wouldnt surprise me if the remains of old chimney breasts, lathe and plaster walls and the old internal wall filled the under floor void. If you ever meet the previous owners i think w'd turn a blind eye to any retribution you wished to take!!
anyway - WELL DONE

[dan_aka_jack]

I guess you knew what you were taking on originally? if not  you may be able to get a cheque from your surveyor!

We knew the house was slightly knackered but we had absolutely no idea just how knackered it was!  The rotten joists, damp & cracked walls, unsupported internal walls etc were all a complete surprise.  I did re-read the survey once the full extent of the knackered living room became apparent but every other line is "I could not gain access to X so I can't say for certain what's going on"

Wouldnt surprise me if the remains of old chimney breasts, lathe and plaster walls and the old internal wall filled the under floor void.

I think you're absolutely correct.

[rhys]

well done Jack excellent job - now how many other rooms to do??

[dan_aka_jack]

well done Jack excellent job

Many thanks 

- now how many other rooms to do??

Shhhhh... we don't talk about such things!

[leethomas]

In my view there should have been a building regs certificate for the chimney removal and the support beam for the knock through. For instance you mention there was evidence of deflection where the Rolled Steel joist should have been. There was probably even a smell of rot in or under the very poorly ventilated floor. each point should have been raised at least for further investigation.
Additionally searches or enquiries of the vendor should have picked up the building regs and beam issue.

It may be worth on a no win no fee basis taking this further with either your surveyor, &/or your solicitor, or the previous owners if they lied. i understand you would have 6 years from discovery to make a claim. the work has cost you a year or so of your time and a great deal of cost. even the suggestion of a claim may result in an out of court offer to settle???

just a thought.

 

[martin]

In my experience, surveyors are like accountants, and are well-covered by "getout" clauses - as are estate agents and everyone else concerned in the property business. Property is usually sold on the basis of "caveat emptor" - "let the buyer beware", and it is down to a purchaser to ascertain the state of the property they wish to buy. In the inflationary property market there's been the rise of "drive-by surveys" on behalf of building societies (is it there? is it decoratively ok from a cursory look? - pass!)
A full RICS survey costs a small fortune, but should have uncovered anything like the problems in this case - but they'd still have "covered themselves" in the way the report is prepared......
By all means check with a reputable solicitor (I'd avoid the "no win no fee" merchants), but I fear the words "stitched up" and "kipper" spring to mind....