tiling a wooden floor

[billi]

.... can i just tile on a wooden floor (floor boards ) or do i have to lay a membrane between the two layers to provide flexibility for the two   different materials ?

Same for the wall of our log cabin bath , that still seems to shrink/expand 

It does not seem the answer to tile it and have cracks later = water is captured between tiles and wood = wood will rot faster than without tiles

or is there such high flexible tile clue ?

Billi

[Justme]

You can get stable tile backer board to tile on to.

Or do as I am going to do & use plastic wall sheets for round the bath & shower areas.

[daftlad]

All the tilers I have seen just put thin ply down with a ton of screws and tile onto that, you need the right adhesive though.
ta ta

[billi]

Or do as I am going to do & use plastic wall sheets for round the bath & shower areas

was thinking of similar ideas , just whole sheets and cut to fit on site and use silicoon ?

[guydewdney]

tile with flexible adhesive - commonly available from tile shops.

[tony.]

agree with daft lad, first sort any loose floor boards and make sure they are well screwed downadd any dwangs/noggins to reduce any flexing if required.
no point in putting plywood and tiles if the subfloor flexes
depending on what tthe floor finish is next door try and put down 9mm ply if you can 6mm minimum.

screw this ply down every 4", ie a screw every 4" in each direction( you could use ring shank nails also called annular nails) i prefer to use a cordless drill and screwfix turbogold screws.


bal adhesive and a powerdered grout that you add water to are the professional choice, however im sure the sheds will do something similar.

you can get grout that has a antibacterial property if thats required.

tony
t

[biff]

yes billi,
      there is a latex adhesive which mixes with water,its poured on out of a bucket and spread around with a trowel, after a few mins it self levels,  the ply sheets can be laid on this and screwed down,access to underfloor areas will not be easy unless you have planned an inspection panel, its important that the new floor is solid ,so underfloor supports should be reinforced,underneath,,a vent in and one out is also necessary to keep the timbers from going bad.
       a latex based adhesive gives a certain amount of flexability between ply and tile,the finished floor will be  anything up to 35mm higher,so doors and skirts have to be readjusted.
         if it were me,i would stick down 6mm of wallboard(mdf),tape it well, then put my money into a good quality vynl which can keep in the heat,not necessarly rino but there is some really good stuff on the market with charming and warming properties. i always found i got sick of tiles within a couple of years and it was such a buxxer to change them.
                 biff.

[billi]

thanks all i will go for the Ply idea and start tomorrow  and i got all the gear  and adhesives , hope so 

Tiled my kitchen work top today , if its still there  tomorrow  i tile the bath then

Live and learn

Billi

[Iain]

Billi
When I did my living/dining room and kitchen, I took up all the floorboards and laid 22mm flooring chip.(floor therefore remained roughly the same height) I was able to insulate and fit underfloor heating in the living/dining room. The floorboards were sold to the local reclamation firm and that nearly paid for all the chipboard. It also allowed me to re level the joists and make sure everything was straight.I also made it so I could lift 6 various tiles in the living room to allow access under after.(under TV.under sofa etc) the tiles are about 400mm square. I used the latex additive in the adhesive (10 years ago) There might be better non cement based adhesives now that are more flexible. There can be a fair bit of flex in a wooden floor so it is worth making it as stable as possible before laying tiles if you want them to last. A lot more work but worth it in the end, it also allowed me to check and sort any iffy joists and relay any cabling / pipes etc
Iain

[billi]

Iain   thanks
my floor is  already insulated with 100 mm kingspan like insulation

I left the floor boards in ( door frame /bottom board anyhow 15 mm higher than floor boards  and covered the floor boards with half inch   ply  and loads of screws

All tiled today   

Thanks  Billi

[Ivan]

Billi,

I've done this. As stated above - use plywood (3/4", good quality) and flexible tile adhesive. I've also used it for bath side panel. We used the wrong tile adhesive accidentally for the bath panel - tiles fell off when we picked up the board to fix it. Used the right adhesive, and none have fallen off yet!

[billi]

 


sorry i forgot to reply   , thanks Ivan to remind me  and thanks to  all

All worked fine and used the ply  and tons of screws  to connect to the floor

Only mistake  we made was  , not mixing the grout  smooth enough , so had to redo  parts