Gorilla grip type chems in warm zones, ...suitable?

[MR GUS]

Folks, anyone used, or can ward someone off using a grab glue direct to a concrete lintel above a fireplace to seal in the insulation, would it pass muster long term or prone to noxious emissions / failure / nasty stuff in general, obviously it's in a warm area directly above a burner? obviously don't wish for them to start drilling into a concrete reinforced lintel..
if so whats recommended, they like the idea of my much used hardieboard which is what would be cut & fit to seal as a fireproof element in the reconstruction. (this is a local work in progress we address at school kid pick up time) I have some offcuts which I can then give them if it's suitable rather than "tipping" in the hardcore section of the local landfill.

[rhys]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72793/Sealants-Adhesives/Grab-Adhesives/Solvented/Insta-Stik-Expanding-Foam-Grab-Adhesive-750ml
If you need to fix drylining to walls here's the stuff I used.
But near a fire/ boiler then there are fire risks and Part J  and Hetas Rules deal with distances etc.
Boards DO need mechanical fixings, as well to keep them in place in event of fire when foam or glue might fail.

[Fintray]

Perhaps try this?

http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/flexseal.htm

[MR GUS]

Thankyou both, a quick print out this afternoon...

I'll see about sixing in some flexible simpson ties to the brickwork above the lintel this way both can be used & conformity with best practise to sealing & fireblock.

[biff]

carlite bonding,
        a small bag, just plop a few blobs on the back of your board and press into place,its great with heat and also insulates to a degree,,,,gaawwwwwddd love carlite bonding.!!!
                      biff

[MR GUS]

Carlite bonding??  would that have a nigh on instantaneous self supporting grab or would it require pinning from underneath & leaving overnight Biff?
..just in case screwing as a support turns out not to be viable.

[rhys]

Ahhg Carlite is hydroscopic so not good in an old house with not 100% dry walls. Is also a bit iffy with  chimney salts if damp on  unlined chimney breasts.
There is a similar grey gyproc plasterboard adhesive
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_accessories/gyproc_dri-wall_adhesive.aspx
Don't know how or if its very different to bonding plaster?
I've used it too and it seems "sticky! so it may have PVA additives or the like.

[rhys]

Carlite bonding??  would that have a nigh on instantaneous self supporting grab or would it require pinning from underneath & leaving overnight Biff?
..just in case screwing as a support turns out not to be viable.

AH yes you've just answered my own question!
Drywall adhesive "goes off" much more quickly than Bonding. Boards still need to be proped and fixed but not very long to set.

[MR GUS]

Nice, the options are building, as is the scope of info from product.
It's a 70's house same area as myself so he's encountering many of the same elements.
 The chosen substance wouldn't (under normal circumstances) be near wet elements, merely to board out & cover up the surrounding area of their stove.

 Biff what the heck do you use to stop expanding B1 grade cannister foam falling out & wasting when in use or do you simply level off & cover the area prior to filling, it was a devil for me, & more to go despite weting the area it simply slumped, then expanded, slumped & dried ..mainly on the floor! ..not cheap either, the remained around the fire I simply used fibreglass insulation having got miffed too many times with the costly pink foam.

[MR GUS]

..His choice, but i'll pass on recommendations, I doubt he needs a big bag, so a  searching we will go!
Thanks Biff, thanks Rhys.
As we are simply diy oafs we'll be asking more later! 

[rhys]

Here u go
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9273196&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372016}/categories%3C{9372048}/categories%3C{9372250}/specificationsProductType=plastering___plasterboard/specificationsSpecificProductType=small_bagged_plaster&tmcampid=4&tmad=c&ecamp=cse_go&CAWELAID=266891087
Sicks squid

[biff]

if you are sealing up the side of a external doorframe you have to be carefull not to bridge the 2 skins,the vertical dpc must not be compromised, just jiggle it about,straighten it and make it tight to the back of the external skin, then use strips of rolled up newspaper  to block the foam from disappearing into the cavity.its a bit tricky but you will get the hang of it. carlite bonding sticks to everything,ceilings ,,steel, no screws needed,goes off while you hold it in place, be sure to only mix the amount you need,it loves concrete lintils and plasterboard.
                              biff

[MR GUS]

Ace stuff! ...oh yes the door is a knock through to our workshop (firedoor) so actually interior, now I need a simple method of inserting fibreglass insulation around the frame where it's draughty & not quite tight..
May as well mention it while I have those with experience to hand, also looking forward to reducing draughts & heating a touch more..