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dhaslam
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« on: December 10, 2010, 01:01:26 PM » |
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Fish get trapped below the ice for long periods and if there are no gaps for gas to escape and oxygen to enter they can die. Sun is usually strong in frosty periods but the angle is wrong to melt the ice. Breaking the ice could injure the fish. Any ideas to save having to use kettles of boiling water? It would be relatively easy to generate solar heat upwards but to transfer heat down to the ice is a bit more tricky.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2010, 01:28:07 PM » |
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I guess dh you would be thinking of a floating platform with upper insulation in place / suspended slighly above the ice to keep the heat introduced firing downward? ..would any heat simply not be absorbed by the large area of cold frozen surface & cold beneath? Perhaps a sealed heat ball? weighted, & directional a take on the old floating football ice gap for ponds.. if it were to be via a small tube array?? then you are looking at hosing to circulate pre-heated water, therefore a semi permanent (seasonal) set up of a few tubes insulated up to the eyeballs, stabilised & a power supply to back up & recirculate? I guess a ball shape to constantly heat a very small area between pumping out & replenishing with hot. Big job, or a small heated wire array that melts stuff & floats / can be kicked out across larger areas & hauled back via it's electrical connection. Guess it's time once more for someone to highlight the risk of water, lectrickery & expensive fishes? ..however, what do commercial fisheries do?
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« Last Edit: December 10, 2010, 01:38:05 PM by MR GUS »
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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djh
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2010, 01:47:53 PM » |
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Put some soot or ash or even soil on the ice. It absorbs the sunlight better.
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Cheers, Dave
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dhaslam
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2010, 01:50:12 PM » |
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Good idea about the upper insulation. I suppose, to take it one step further, the side away from the sun needs to be insulated as well with the south facing side painted black. If the container is airtight the warm air should go below the water level as well. I never found the football idea any use, all you get is a frozen football in the ice but perhaps the colour is important, same effect as soot.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2010, 11:18:37 AM » |
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Dh, would a small constantly moving agitator paddle not work more favourably in terms of upper surface so it could be merely skimmed of semi solids? at least in an area of the pond if not the whole of it. Not that I know, just thinking... Over to the experts
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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guydewdney
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« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 11:39:45 AM » |
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salt  solar panel and 12v kettle element?
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dhaslam
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« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2010, 12:54:01 PM » |
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For the present I just want a fairly simple device to keep the fish alive. But for the new pond I will do something a bit more sophisticated. Possibly I will use a small hot air panel like the ones for the heating system and blow air through it into the water which will both aerate the water and melt the ice. Using a small PV panel would mean it could run all year whenever there is sun.
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Baz
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« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2010, 01:11:15 PM » |
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It looks like your solution from the photo is to bury 4 bodies. If these are politicians I thnk it will work as they must have enough hot air stored in them to last several winters.
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billi
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« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2010, 02:51:27 PM » |
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It would be relatively easy to generate solar heat upwards but to transfer heat down to the ice is a bit more tricky. just a fast thought about these words brought me to the idea to ram / bury upright pipes in the pond ground ( hope it is not lined  ) to transfer warmth from below freezing point towards the ice shell As well some plants like bullrushes would help (but invasive ) Blowing some warm air with a small air pump into the pond would do as well Billi
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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fatbob
Newbie
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Posts: 29
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« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2010, 06:48:34 PM » |
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Hmm I am sooo tempted to suggest some angled mirrors to increase the efficiency of a solar solution, but in the interests of the season of peace and goodwill, let's not go there eh.... 
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2011 - planning to add 1000L and connect the last 2 downpipes 2010 - 1000L + 700L + 136L + 136L (2 of 4 downpipes connected) 2009 - 700L + 136L + 136L (2 of 4 downpipes connected) 2008 - 136L + 136L (2 of 4 downpipes connected) 2007 - 136L (1 of 4 downpipes connected)
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