navitron
 
Renewable Energy and Sustainability Forum
UK's most popular Renewable Energy Forum May 24, 2012, 06:48:32 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Anyone wishing to register as a new member on the forum is strongly recommended to use a "proper" email address - following recent spam/hack attempts on the forum, all security is set to "high", and "disposable" email addresses like Gmail, Yahoo and Hotmail tend to be viewed with suspicion, and the application rejected if there is any doubt whatsoever
 
Recent Articles: UPDATE ON DECC APPLICATION FOR LEAVE TO APPEAL TO THE SUPREME COURT | Yingli Green Energy's PV Module Ranks No.2 in TUV Rheinland Energy Yield Test | Navitron Solar Showers at Glastonbury for Year 5!
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Wood powered Gasser??  (Read 1609 times)
Ivan
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1221


« Reply #15 on: June 21, 2011, 01:52:49 AM »

I think the burley stove is double-glazed. The fire chamber is also excessively-lined with firebricks to ensure a high combustion temperature.

Yes, Desp, catalysts work on woodstoves. The Americans use them a lot. You got to bypass them until the flue gases are hot, otherwise they clog up. Also, you have to be very careful about what you burn - there are a lot of chemicals that can kill catalysts (eg heavy metals to give one example) - so if you start chucking any old wood on the stove, you end up with a dead catalyst pretty quickly. So it's high quality logs only. None of this pallet rubbish!
Logged

Navitron Member of Staff
www.epogee.co.uk - Solar PV & Solar Thermal Training / MCS
desperate
Guest
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2011, 06:41:02 PM »

You mean.................I'll have to stop burning old tyres............ Huh

Desp
Logged
dhaslam
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4561



« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2011, 07:07:16 PM »

The Walltherm stove  has an extra flap between 4a and 4b  on Billi's plan that can be used to increase the draught,  by shortening the heat transfer area, if the flue is too cool.   I am probably going to install one soon.   My chimney is quite  short, only about five metres above the stove, so  I may have to do something to increase the draught.  An angled entry to the flue and perhaps an extension  to the chimney  by way of a tall cowl might help. I wonder how difficult it is to initially get the flue gases up to 300C?    I want to use the air inlet to help dry wood by drawing inlet air through the wood store.  There is a an insulated version that the Irish  agent didn't know about  that cuts the heat output to the room down to about 3 kW instead of 5kW.   This should be OK for a daily four hour burn.     
Logged
mespilus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 946


WWW
« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2011, 10:55:45 PM »

Yeah, it would be nice to keep the glazed door and line the other 3 sides and the base, do you reckon the glass would be up to the job? Maybe some of the secondary air heat exchange pipery could sheild the glass a bit. I am going to try and knock up a sketch or two for your perusal.

Desperate

http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/glass.cfm

Don't know where you can get Corning 7913 from but a melting point of 1530C should be high enough.
Logged

Now in the HS2 blight zone
Brandon
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1245



« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2011, 05:14:43 PM »

The other option is rocket stove mass heaters (google: ianto evans rocket stove), they are very efficient, and if we get the house that we are currently hoping for, then I will most likely build on as the main heating appliance, ideal for running on coppice wood.
Logged

changing the world, one roof at a time...

"We can't be B&Q astroturfers. That's one conspiracy theory too far. You should cut down on the pot." - Wookey
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!