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MR GUS
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« on: July 25, 2011, 03:25:03 PM » |
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Like a lot of folk our loft is insulated in a piecemeal manner.
Namely in that it consists of..
"Some" loose blown cellulose, ..& by blown I mean it moves around in the inevitable draught, (this stuff i'm trying to sweep upto clean the air & crawlspace as I go, no mean feat)
Fibreglass blanket insulation, (not encapsulated but cut to fit)
Encapsulated foil / orange "thin" bagged Fibreglass insulation
Xtratherm 70mm (depth of my rafters)
..I do multiple layers so it can be as deep as 500 mm or as little as 70mm xtratherm + chipboard loft boarding.
Now I like to be able to move the insulation around , (more like need too) because of limited headroom.
I'm wary that anything in the thin foil / orange bags, (which i've cut to lenght for movement & sealed the ends of degrade / snag, & I hate loosefill in general, but throwing it would be a waste.
Therefore can anyone suggest anything wrong with encapsulating loosefill in homemade bags of reflective material (open to suggestion, that wouldn't cost an arm & a leg & could be carried out on an adhoc basis, ie as I can crawl in & reach it?
I'm guessing the basic cheap foil bubblelayers cut to size, loose stitched & sealed with something very sticky like carpet adhesive tape may do the trick in order that the areas prone to be moved are more durable & offer better theoretical insulation as a result?
Anyone got pointers experience or can direct me to someone on-line who has done the same?
Lastly, is it worth sticking up some bubblelayer against the brickwork gable end in the loft?
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« Last Edit: July 25, 2011, 03:29:53 PM by MR GUS »
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2011, 04:56:39 PM » |
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The commercial foil pillows for loft insulation have lots of little perforations to give vapour permeability for a good reason.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2011, 05:27:07 PM » |
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sounds logical, i'm wondering what the cheapest product I could use that I could bond together would be, that would give best coverage for least outlay?
Also bonding adhesive that weathers well for both high heat & low temp & flexes without going brittle?
those complexities made me think some basic stitching, but that would probably need reinforcing of some kind too...
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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desperate
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2011, 08:26:36 PM » |
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How about that breather membrane used below roof tiles, Tyvek or similar? not exactly cheap mind, But you may be able to chat up a roofer for the offcuts and roll ends. Desp PS by the way Gus, I wouldn't put loft insulation in the pockets................it'll make yer balleaux itch  |
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« Last Edit: July 25, 2011, 09:11:32 PM by desperate »
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Crazy old duffer
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MR GUS
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 12:49:17 PM » |
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I've found a seller who is doing 1x metre width in 50 metre rolls, which could be pretty good, will have to ask some questions as to it's formulation & the like..
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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MR GUS
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2011, 02:21:12 PM » |
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Whilst on the subject of lofts!
Can anyone identify whether this is stupid 1970's bodgery of nailed wood along the roof trusses or anything more structural? ..I cannot imagine this qualifying as "reinforcing, however, what do I know!
Poor quality pic below..
Also how much space round 70mm of xtratherm foil / foam insulation (if any) where the light socket cable comes through?
currently I've cut a little block around it to be altered / infilled if applicable?
just to confirm, due to limited space I 've moved the insulation round the tank in the picture literally because this is crawl on your belly territory! & I need to board under / behind it.. (temp measures)
The space on the right of the pic is wher I have to crawl to access anywhere in our stupid loft! ..not easy.
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« Last Edit: July 26, 2011, 02:47:03 PM by MR GUS »
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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desperate
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2011, 06:19:45 PM » |
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Hi Gus
Thats just a bit of stuff the chippys bashed up to prop the trusses during the build to stop them getting blown down during muggotime. I think minimum clearence around cables is fine, but the sparkys may well know better than I.
Desp
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Crazy old duffer
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MR GUS
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2011, 06:30:30 PM » |
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Thanks desp, i'll rip em down as I need all the space I can get up there!
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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Baz
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« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2011, 12:43:26 AM » |
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It's so CLEAN. is it a real loft or just a mockup for some pictures like the ones in "how to insulate your loft" articles. Where are the six inch spiders and mouse poo?
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Ivan
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2011, 01:08:23 AM » |
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If there are any diagonal bits of 2x1, leave them well alone. They stop the trusses toppling over.
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Navitron Member of Staff www.epogee.co.uk - Solar PV & Solar Thermal Training / MCS |
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MR GUS
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« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2011, 10:10:08 AM » |
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If there are any diagonal bits of 2x1, leave them well alone. They stop the trusses toppling over.
Now you've got me worried, they're the pieces running the length of the picture, from the foreground to the background, beneath the actual A of the trusses nailed loosely, ..can you confirm you're talking about the same thing Ivan? |
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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Ivan
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« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2011, 01:37:48 AM » |
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I wouldn't worry about anything that runs horizontally - the ridge board will provide much greater strength to the roof. But imagine a square turning into a rhombus - roof trusses can do the same thing, even after the ridge board is attached. So sometimes 2 x 1 diagonals are attached to the rafters at 45degrees (ie running from eaves towards ridge). These prevent the trusses collapsing like a pack of cards. Sometimes they're only attached for temporary strength, to provide rigidity until the roof is complete, whereas other times they serve a useful purpose. Yours doesn't look like this, but in case there is any other 2x1 not photographed, I was making the point in case you suddenly thought you could take out any 2x1 in the roof.
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Navitron Member of Staff www.epogee.co.uk - Solar PV & Solar Thermal Training / MCS |
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MR GUS
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« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2011, 10:16:21 AM » |
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It's so CLEAN. is it a real loft or just a mockup for some pictures like the ones in "how to insulate your loft" articles. Where are the six inch spiders and mouse poo?
Only clean because you cannot move if there's anything impeding your progress whilst doing a seal like belly shuffle. i'ts all in 3 rooms below, waiting to go back. |
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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SimonHobson
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« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2011, 04:58:21 PM » |
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I have to admit, I was wondering about alternatives to just putting 'loose' fibreglass down. It's such a b***ache to work round - and especially to roll back when you need access to something.
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guydewdney
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« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2011, 05:38:48 PM » |
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idea for the bags - use old wine box inners....  |
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