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Author Topic: Bitumen DPM & NO more nails suitability?  (Read 415 times)
MR GUS
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« on: August 13, 2011, 09:00:20 AM »

IS it o.k. to use?
I tried looking on their webby, but it's up for a re-vamp, & don't wish to mess up.
need to bond Some hardiebacker over a bit of cement, fire-foam, but mainly the thresh-hold is dpm, the hardiebacker will then be ovelaid with oak flooring to raise the step more. however I feel it may have to come up in several years regardless (just never know) ..obviously you want it tight fitting & not flapping, however this is hindering further filling & boarding over of the doorway.

Any ideas, I don't reckon Henkel work saturdays.
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mespilus
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« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2011, 10:16:09 AM »

Not much sticks to bitumen,
except,
more bitumen.

Also much that is bituminous, is modified with additional chemicals,
say 'polymers', (often sbr), to reduce flow properties in say dpms,
or solvents, to improve flow properties and improve (unprimed) adhesion onto porous substrates.

Unless your 'no more nails' expressly confirms suitability with bituminous materials
you can safely assume it will not adhere.

Your local builders' merchant/screwfix/toolstation may well have a gunnable 'bituminous sealant'
available in a standard 310ml cartridge,
which will stick much better.

Just check the solvent content,
as the solvent will take an extended period to evaporate,
dependent
of course
upon both the local temperature
and
the quality of the seal around the perimeter of your Hardiebacker.
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Now in the HS2 blight zone
MR GUS
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2011, 11:44:15 AM »

mES, Thankyou, you cracked it!

Ok If I've doubts then I won't use it which I have!

Therefore I will add bitumen to bitumen to Hardiebacker in the form of rubberoid flat roof emergency repair kit!

OR would a roof & gutter sealant do the same? ...Unibond Butyl Rubber sealant

Personally think it best at this point to crack open the can of flat roof repair!

Thanks, I was just gnashing teeth as what with not being allowed to drive (no not drinking /speeding) if I've not got it down pat it makes life VERY difficult indeed.

OK will crack on!
Thanks
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mespilus
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2011, 11:55:10 AM »

The 'roof'n'gutter seal' will be designed to seal the typical gap
that develops in badly assembled/installed guttering,
adheres strongly to most plastics and 'strings' rather than behaving elastically.

It is probably a 'non-setting' sealant,
retaining (some) fluidity, allowing it to flow, (slowly), under gravity into gaps/weep holes etc.

It may adhere to yout bitumonous dpm,
but,
also may just form a layer, that slowly finds the lowest points in your threshhold,
and pond.

The Ruberoid bituminous system sounds better,
just, again,
check the solvent content.

Remember several layers of disposable gloves prevent skin contamination with bituminous stickies,
much better than attempting to solvent wash them off later.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2011, 12:02:30 PM »

Gloves to hand, (even for mortaring).
 ..delicate little flower that I am.

Will do mes, I'll finish mortaring & check in garage of doom & frozen stuff!
..will be back for more hand holding (advice) later!
cheers
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!

Noli Timere Messorem
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