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Author Topic: Outdoor meter cupboards..Fiddlesticks!!  (Read 1219 times)
MR GUS
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« on: August 17, 2011, 07:12:45 PM »

 Or more precisely, i've just walked along a road whereby ALL the houses meter cupboards are evidently taped shut because of the naff nylon locking mechanism which grinds down over time, subsequently getting "bumped" open by the wind...

My first thought would be isocyanite superglue, however, nylon material suitability, & superglues tend to crack in heat / cold, both of which occur.

So firstly  anyone fixed theirs & can recommend anything durable that would do it I could use, OR do you reckon a simple "rub over" with silicone over the thing would build it up to tighten the devil sufficiently?

& Secondly, as I've mentioned before the lack of insulation in these things, isn't it about time their was a standardised clse fitting insulated block that should be available to householders to plug a gap in heat loss through walls.
(where our meter cupboard is located it makes for a VERY cold wall despite taking measures)
I wonder what the thermal imaging scenario is around these things, ..Ivan??
« Last Edit: August 17, 2011, 07:16:40 PM by Samantha (Navitron) » Logged

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Ivan
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« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2011, 11:56:54 PM »

It's easy to compare a poorly insulated part of the house with an open window: If you open a window on a cold winter day, you'll soon find your house gets cold, regardless of how well insulated it is.

Even small areas of heat loss (for example my bathroom ventilator - now blocked up) can cool an entire floor of a house overnight. So I can quite see how something like this can have a significant impact. I'd take some pictures, but round here, the meters intended for outdoor reading all seem to be behind glass blocks. If I see any, I'll certainly go take some thermal photos on a cold night.
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charlieb
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« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2011, 09:52:47 AM »

Ditto the big holes in the wall we were forced to cut out when we installed cavity wall insulation - because there's a fireplace. This in a room with four leaky sash windows and a door to the outside.   Now blocked up a much as possible with old socks.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2011, 10:18:29 AM »

Thanks Ivan, I think this is an ideal highlighter for the nation, the very cupboard the energy suppliers take an extra "x %" on your bill due to inefficiencies, = an extra power station or two that could be taken offline etc etc... seems criminal negligence.

 IF I could (asides from an area for my energy monitor clamp) i'd have the whole lot packed out, i've found out that the nylon door latch kits are around £2.50 a set,after fixing this i'm going to have a rethink as to making insulation "bricks that can be cut & glued to max it out, as it's really contributing to heat loss in the coldest part of the house, windside.
I also think the onus ought to be on the fitters of a unit to seal off gaps that would lead to draughts & rodents, it is just too simple & too darn sensible though to happen.

I'd love to see this as a project Ivan, one that we could shame councils & housebuilders into compliance, as it go's against all reason in otherwise insulated buildings regs.

Would energy savings trust be the kind of folk to discuss this with, councils are always saying "little things people can do" well this is one of them!
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MR GUS
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« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2011, 10:23:09 AM »

Ditto the big holes in the wall we were forced to cut out when we installed cavity wall insulation - because there's a fireplace. This in a room with four leaky sash windows and a door to the outside.   Now blocked up a much as possible with old socks.

 Charlie B, could you not make up a foam fill  box & cut it to the size of your air vent, with a plastic (ice cream tub or similar) back to it with a "drawing wire" fitted through for immediate removal should you need to demonstrate clear passage?
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charlieb
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« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2011, 10:44:55 AM »

I certainly could Mr Gus, but to be honest there are a lot of other things I need to do first.   (This is my parents place - big house in the country - not mine.  My flat has had everythin done to it so I now concentrate on sorting them out. It's also satisfying because Dad's over 70 so the basic stuff is done for free).
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brackwell
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« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2011, 11:38:05 AM »

We could fit external boxes instead.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2011, 12:27:45 PM »

Ours is an external box.

Thing is the external box is a thin door, air space, chipboard mount, thin back.

 This means it transfers cold straight into the cavity, filled or not, & like Ivan states is like an open window, so very much a forgotten aspect of insulating, yet may be a big cause of energy wastage & heat loss...pointlessly.

How big a box do we need these days for meters & connections? why are they so oversize ?
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Baz
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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2011, 01:31:25 PM »

Back to original question for a latch how about one of those simple cupboard door things can't think of the name but a bit of wood 2"x1"x0.25" with a screw through the middle that you just turn to go over the edge of the door. If the bit it turns onto is a wedge shape it can be tightened against a foam seal. Once the outside edge of the box is sealed to the brick there shouldn't be a draught. Then for the little bit of wall with reduced insulation why not just stick a bookcase againt it to provide 6 ins of 'wood fibre' insulation.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2011, 01:50:45 PM »

Back to original question for a latch how about one of those simple cupboard door things can't think of the name but a bit of wood 2"x1"x0.25" with a screw through the middle that you just turn to go over the edge of the door. If the bit it turns onto is a wedge shape it can be tightened against a foam seal. Once the outside edge of the box is sealed to the brick there shouldn't be a draught. Then for the little bit of wall with reduced insulation why not just stick a bookcase againt it to provide 6 ins of 'wood fibre' insulation.

Baz, screwing into those boxes is really a no-no, as they're open to all sorts of heat / cold stresses, mines been there since the 1980's i'd guess & is cracking in places.
 
So the old latch idea might make it more prone to crack...sadly.
However it's good to know there are wee kits available complete with MORE naff nylon to do the same, a replacement v an outright fix.. hmm
THink i'll go down the silicone route & see what happens as to it's compression, or maybe a bit of fimo.
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brackwell
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« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2011, 02:37:18 PM »

Mr Gus,
When i suggested external box i meant just that,one that is totally external to the outside wall. They are made.

Ken
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MR GUS
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« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2011, 02:44:12 PM »

Ah right! ...sorry Ken!

 I think i've seen them but thought they were for gas meters, I guess they're the latest type fitted now?
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« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2011, 03:19:20 PM »

Ah right! ...sorry Ken!

 I think i've seen them but thought they were for gas meters, I guess they're the latest type fitted now?

Sorry for the slight hi-jack....

Do you have to fit externally accessible meters in a new build, or can you still put them inside?

I don't want a carbuncle sat outside my planned EWI and would rather have them inside the thermal
envelope of the house.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2011, 03:48:27 PM »

No hijack at all, sensible...
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Baz
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« Reply #14 on: August 19, 2011, 12:17:26 AM »

In a new build of your own you can plan and control the way it is mounted to solve the problem. It would be daft to design in the need to be at home for the blasted meter readers.

The latch thingy I suggested doesn't screw into the box itself, it would screw into the wall since the door on all the boxes I have seen goes right up to the edge.
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