|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« on: October 10, 2011, 08:55:37 PM » |
|
Looking at using a systemlink systemzone (or similar Low Loss Header) to connect two solid fuel boilers up to the DHW cylinder
I'm looking at getting the 4 zone model as i just need to connect the two boiler and one cylinder coil. There's going to be 2 heat leak radiators they're above the boilers but below where we're going to site the LLH, i assume these need to be connected to the remaining zone on the LLH or not because they won't thermosyphon?
Any further thoughts?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2011, 09:33:02 AM » |
|
Can anyone advise?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
dhaslam
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2011, 11:00:48 AM » |
|
Wouldn't it be better to arrange the overheat protection to run from the point where the two stove outputs are combined?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2011, 11:21:46 AM » |
|
Well they are combined at the LLH, surely that is the point of installing one. All research i've done suggest you can' just plumb the stoves together.
So are you suggesting we run the heat leak radiators above the LLH (i.e. in the loft/top room?), they were meant to be in the two first floor bathrooms so the heat was useful
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mostie
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2011, 03:00:56 PM » |
|
some sort of diagram required here, I can just about picture what your up to...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
4x Sharp 175w, Soladin 600, Mitsubishi H.I. split 2.5kw inverter heat pump.
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2011, 03:03:56 PM » |
|
ok coming up....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2011, 03:20:59 PM » |
|
here you go, this is the current thinking. but i don't know if the heat leak rads need to be above the neutraliser?  Help much appreciated
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mostie
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2011, 12:14:11 AM » |
|
cant see why it wouldn't work, I wonder how much heat will go through those rads? it might work without that DHW pump. that Dunsley..... I've seen headers made out of a large bore steel pipe with a flange on either end and fittings tapped off it. however, more knowledgeable people may be along shortly....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
4x Sharp 175w, Soladin 600, Mitsubishi H.I. split 2.5kw inverter heat pump.
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2011, 06:52:44 PM » |
|
indeed i've seen headers out of large pipe too, in fact the only two box shaped ones are the dunsley and the systemlink version of the same
The pump running should have no negative effect on the boiler circuits, it will just pull heat from the header quicker and that should in turn speed up the thermosyphon from the boilers.
I'm wondering if the rads won't take much heat at all until the tank is full and the header is not being depleted, this sounds perfect but could be complete balls. I'm thinking of using a laddomat or similar DIY pipe system on each boiler to improve boiler efficiency/heat extraction
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mostie
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2011, 11:35:35 AM » |
|
I'm wondering if the rads won't take much heat at all until the tank is full and the header is not being depleted, this sounds perfect but could be complete balls.
I thought the same, although that doesn't mean were right  Unfortunately I haven't connected my Yorkshire stove to the tank yet, which tee's off the large 9000 BTU heat leak rad, someone else must know? On a different note crossing your return pipes on that Dunsley might be an idea?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
4x Sharp 175w, Soladin 600, Mitsubishi H.I. split 2.5kw inverter heat pump.
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2011, 06:23:41 PM » |
|
what do you mean by 'crossing your return pipes'?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Solal
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2011, 07:46:56 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2011, 08:39:34 PM » |
|
Thanks, that's a good document to read actually....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Greenbeast
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2011, 06:15:13 PM » |
|
I guess this is the problem with unique and custom system design, not many people can advise....
Thinking about using a similar approach (neutraliser) in an solar/wood stove system elsewhere, so that both can load the top or bottom of the cylinder.
Feed the solar and stove boiler into the neutraliser and use a diverter valve to pump that round either the top or bottom cyl coil (neither are proper solar coils). If power dies the valve will default to the bottom cylinder coil and there'll be a gravity diversion round the pump.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mostie
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2011, 01:36:42 PM » |
|
GB what I meant was, looking at your drawing but also I dont know the exact piping arrangements of a neutraliser , having the flow from say the range go across i.e. flow in one side and return out the other .
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
4x Sharp 175w, Soladin 600, Mitsubishi H.I. split 2.5kw inverter heat pump.
|
|
|
|