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Author Topic: NEW LOFT STORAGE SOLUTION for ultra thick insulation..  (Read 5382 times)
MR GUS
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« on: November 06, 2011, 08:42:51 PM »

it's not the perfect solution but it does go some way to helping folk dump a shedload of superthick insulation down & allow storage on top..
Was in B&Q  & saw this (16.99 per set)

To create a storage area, attach these loft stilts to the top of your joists so you don't squash your insulation as this won't work as effectively. These innovative stilts enable you to have 300mm insulation plus storage space. (I guess that's total not extra, ..could be wrong, if that's total then the metal ones from toolstation represent a better deal & in all likelihood durability compared to the plastic in a super hot & extra cold loft ..brittleness)


Started looking around & found these too ...

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Loft+Flooring+Legs+/p44016

Made me think how cheap it would be to bash out basic blocks of wood (stronger) with screwed in L brackets stuck to them & flog em as a going concern, simple block cutting & screw attachment.... why so much in the way of dubious plastic mouldings?
« Last Edit: November 06, 2011, 08:51:23 PM by MR GUS » Logged

Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!

Noli Timere Messorem
HalcyonRichard
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« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2011, 10:29:22 PM »

Hi,
    I had a similar problem. I just added joists at right angles to the ones already there. You can decide the height you require then put the insulation in and then add loft boards. I thought B&Q had at some time loft boards with insulation bonded on. You just screwed it to your joists as usual with the insulation downwards and chipboard upwards.

Regards Richard
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Laws are for the guidance of wise men and the obeyance of fools - Richard Burton upon Trent
Baz
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« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2011, 10:51:51 PM »

I have been thinking about this as it is about to be a requirement. My line is that the joists are thick because they are part of the house structure, but the extension joists can be a thin as practical. I am therefore considering 1/4 in ply joists with some strengthening on designated walkways. Not sure how to hold it all together unless by loads of 1 in sq.
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Paulh_Boats
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« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2011, 11:13:35 PM »

Standard practice is to run 5x2 stringers close to the V joints, then hang new joists between the stringers. Thats how the water tank is supported in our roof - the stringers are about 8ft long so the load is spread evenly and not concentrated on 1 or 2 joists.

-Paul

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solar_cambridge
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« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2011, 11:36:40 PM »

How about slabs of 100mm celotex or eqivalent laid over existing joists. You can safely walk on that too, or you could lay a thin sheet of ply over the top.
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ericw
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« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2011, 09:24:15 AM »

I used an 8x4 sheet of OSB cut into 6" wide strips at the local DIY shed mounted on edge at right angles to the existing joists. Fixed with L brackets
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skyewright
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« Reply #6 on: November 07, 2011, 09:36:36 AM »

I used an 8x4 sheet of OSB cut into 6" wide strips
Which thickness of OSB?
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David
3.91kWp PV  (17 x Moser Baer 230 and Aurora PVI-3.6-OUTD-S-UK), slope 40°, WSW, Lat 57° 9' (Isle of Skye)
ericw
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« Reply #7 on: November 07, 2011, 12:38:49 PM »

I used 18mm because that was the only size available at the time. I'm sure you can use thinner because the stress is across the width of the 'plank' not its thickness. Put the brackets on alternate sides or add cross members to prevent being twisted over.
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wookey
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« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2011, 11:50:46 AM »

I used slab insulation (EPS) over the joists, with hardboard underneath for a little (probably unnecessary) load-spreading. Works fine. I'd use PUR these days for better numbers. OSB on edge+fluff is probably cheaper.
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Wookey
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« Reply #9 on: November 10, 2011, 09:07:53 AM »

Mr Gus et al,

Have you bought/used any of these stilts yet?  I like the look of the their simplicity and need to do something about the storage in my loft and the flattened insulation but what concerns me is that these stilts don't appear to be secured in any way.  There also doesn't appear to be any way to secure the 'floor' to them so does that mean I will need to glue the T&G flooring along the joints to give it some stability?

Hopefully somebody out there has some experience of them that they can share.

Thanks,

Ian.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #10 on: November 10, 2011, 01:23:03 PM »

Hi, I haven't & don't think I would as they're plastic & so prone thus to degradation in your typical loft.
I'd prefer to use wood blocks & metal "L" plates screwed onto them & a rafter, however the option is there.
sorry.
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!

Noli Timere Messorem
brackwell
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« Reply #11 on: November 10, 2011, 01:33:11 PM »

I was looking at these in BQ yesterday.  I would certainly be wanting to screw the rafter flanges to the rafter (maybe the instructions say that) ,otherwise they looked fine -perhaps taller than they need to be.

Ken
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DominicJ
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« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2011, 02:03:10 PM »

I've just banned loft storage.
Seriously, unless you have a large one you can walk around and put cupboards ect in, no one has a clue whats in their loft.

When I cleared mine the Mrs had bought extras of most of what was up there.
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andrewindevon
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« Reply #13 on: February 04, 2012, 01:11:04 PM »

I'm just increasing our 250-300 loft insulation to 450-500, using some of those stilts to create a chipboard crawlway along the middle just in case future access needed (solar HW system).  No intention of using the loft for storage, stuff would go up but never come down!  Only point to note is those stilts are "rated" at 50kg m^2.  I suppose I could have just used timber noggins. 

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acresswell
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« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2012, 05:51:30 AM »

Assuming you mean 50kg / m2 then that isn't enough!

My mass is somewhere around 80kg, so I'd need to keep my feet 1m apart at all times!  Grin

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Building a new home in North Worcestershire
 see http://ecobodger.wordpress.com
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