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Ivan
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« on: November 12, 2011, 12:15:21 AM » |
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Here's a 10minute project that will have two benefits 1)reduce the influx of cold air into the house during cold weather 2)reduce the quantity of fibreglass fibres floating around in the air in the top floor of your house
Start by turning off your MCB/fuse providing power to your upstairs lighting. Or better still turn off the main power switch to be extra-safe.
Check there is no power to each of the lights.
Assuming power is disconnected, start by unscrewing all the collars on your upstairs light fittings. You'll notice that the mains cables enter the fitting through a hole in the plasterboard. In fact, if you look carefully, you'll probably see some fibreglass.
Squirt silicone sealant into the hole and seal around the wire coming through it.
Replace the collar and repeat for each of the upstairs light fittings.
Turn the power back on.
We find that when it's particularly windy, we often get a faint smell of fibreglass - which I think is caused by cold weather/wind pressure on one side of the building, causing the attic to pressurise slightly compared to the upper floor, so the colder, denser air from the attic starts falling into the room through any hole it can find (light fittings in the ceiling, sockets in the wall, light switches in the wall). This quick and dirty fix seems to have solved this problem.
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Navitron Member of Staff www.epogee.co.uk - Solar PV & Solar Thermal Training / MCS |
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MR GUS
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« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2011, 09:32:37 AM » |
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Common sense overlooked because we see something so much we basically ignore it! ..nice one Ivan, i'll sort a few out today.
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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turnerroy1
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Posts: 13
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« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2011, 12:22:34 PM » |
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Super idea. Please be carefull as uncured (wet) silicone will conduct if it conducts between neutral and earth your R.C.D (if fitted will drop out.
Regards.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2011, 04:25:15 PM » |
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Super idea. Please be carefull as uncured (wet) silicone will conduct if it conducts between neutral and earth your R.C.D (if fitted will drop out.
Regards.
Good thinking, so best doing over periods of downtime such as just before a weekend away when you can simply isolate & leave it tripped till cured ..that at least is my assumption! ..correct? |
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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Ted
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« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2011, 05:23:13 PM » |
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How old are the electrics in your house, Ivan?
Your lighting circuit is conspicuously missing any cpc/earth.
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desperate
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« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2011, 06:23:10 PM » |
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I bet there's a JB or even a chocky above the ceiling.............I hope.
Desp
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Crazy old duffer
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solar_cambridge
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« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2011, 07:03:53 PM » |
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I bet there's a JB or even a chocky above the ceiling.............I hope.
Desp
I'd lay a quid there isn't. Its red/black cores and I've seen many a house with no earth on the lighting circuits. At least its pretty trivial to replace the lighting circuits (loft access and t&g flooring for that age house) |
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Hugo
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« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2011, 07:54:58 PM » |
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Cheers Ivan.
Is an earth needed, can you add one to the existing.
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desperate
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« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2011, 08:07:26 PM » |
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I bet there's a JB or even a chocky above the ceiling.............I hope.
Desp
I'd lay a quid there isn't. Its red/black cores and I've seen many a house with no earth on the lighting circuits. At least its pretty trivial to replace the lighting circuits (loft access and t&g flooring for that age house) You may well be right, but it looks like there are 3 black wires, 2*N and a switched live, and then just 2 red wires, something must be happening above the ceiling. Desp |
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« Last Edit: November 12, 2011, 08:10:31 PM by desperate »
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Crazy old duffer
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Ivan
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« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2011, 02:25:29 AM » |
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It's probably original wiring on this one - 1960s. Next time I get a minute I'll check all the light fittings for earth wires.
The silicone should not be applied to the electrical connections - we're just sealing the hole in the ceiling where the wires come through.
However, if you are planning to silicone the electrical connections, then, yes it may conduct until it has cured. I don't recommend you do use silicone on the electrical connections themselves, but if you are doing this, use a neutral-cure silicone, as the acetic acid in standard silicone will cause the copper/brass to corrode slightly.
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Navitron Member of Staff www.epogee.co.uk - Solar PV & Solar Thermal Training / MCS |
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Ted
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« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2011, 10:19:36 AM » |
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You may well be right, but it looks like there are 3 black wires, 2*N and a switched live, and then just 2 red wires, something must be happening above the ceiling.
Desp
Looks like standard loop-in, loop-out but with one red conductor missing, or at least not visible.  |
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spluger
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« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2011, 03:10:50 PM » |
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i siliconed my pesky down lighters in the bedroom (put them in before i started getting into greener living) and how i wish i chose fire rated as they're sealed already.
bedroom so much warmer now
and yes used clear silicone and no you cant see it but i'm sure it'll be fun when its time to change the bulbs (cfl's)
David
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20 x 58mm tubes plumed direct , -10deg south facing 37 deg pitch, 200ltr vented standard tank
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martin W
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« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2011, 09:15:57 PM » |
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shouldn't you use fire barrier calking (as oer building regs I believe)? not that I've every seen any in the few houses I been in lately.....and some numpty fire sealed the gas pipe sleeve in the gas meter box end not the house end in a 2004 house I was in the other day.....
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011  (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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wookey
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« Reply #13 on: November 20, 2011, 03:34:24 AM » |
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My lighting is earth-conductor free too. 1960s vintage. That's still allowed so long as none of your light fittings are metal - you'll just get an 'advisory' telling you it a bit sub-standard these days if anyone comes inspecting. I do in fact have two metal wall-mounted light fittings downstairs which are for the chop. Eventually all the wiring will get upgraded as part of the LED-ification.
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Wookey
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spluger
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« Reply #14 on: November 20, 2011, 07:54:03 AM » |
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martin w
i meant fire rated lights like i fitted in my kitchen, they have metal hoods on so no drafts.
much easier than faffing around after.
David
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20 x 58mm tubes plumed direct , -10deg south facing 37 deg pitch, 200ltr vented standard tank
Fire Belly fb1 wood burner
2.5kW east west PV 2 x sma 1200
weather compensated boiler
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