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Author Topic: LED Worklights....  (Read 720 times)
Contadino
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« on: November 23, 2011, 04:49:36 PM »

I've decided to bite the bullet and sort out some form of worklight, and I thought I'd ask for opinions.  It needs to be fairly moveable, and only really used occasionally, but the most important thing is that I get a good amount of light for as little energy as possible.  It's for jobs that don't need a huge spread of light, but daylight levels of brightness, if that makes sense.  At the moment, I can forsee it being used in my little shed, and a spot outside (where I would happily put a post in to mount it on) but I suspect it's the sort of thing that when you have it, you make more use of it than you anticipated.

So far, I've seen this on fleabay...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Work-Light-127-Super-Bright-LED-Telescopic-Tripod-Stand-/260837287008?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbb1d2460

...but I don't know how to convert 'Luminance 16CD' to lumens, and it's battery powered rather than mains.

But then I thought about something like this PAR LED stage light...

http://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_led_par_64_10_mm_black_rgb.htm

For which I could fabricate a mounting bracket quite easily. But again, the product page gives no information about brightness.

Can anyone recommend a good low energy worklight, or opinions....

Thanks.
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HalcyonRichard
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« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2011, 04:59:32 PM »

Hi,
    I bought a makita drill with two lithium batteries. I then bought a standalone torch which connects to the batteries used for the drill. Some here :-

http://www.tooled-up.com/ManCategory.asp?MID=MAK&CID=21

It's bright enough for most jobs - 10 watts incandescant and you can get LED bulbs for them. I like mine because it's portable and uses the spare drill battery. If you are plastering or bricklaying it's probably not enough. I would not buy something I had not seen in use. LEDS are getting better all the time but there are some very poor ones out there.

Regards Richard
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Laws are for the guidance of wise men and the obeyance of fools - Richard Burton upon Trent
Bodidly
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« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2011, 05:31:46 PM »

How about some powerful bike lights some can be turned into the most amazing head torch. I have a hope vision 4 and is it is like daylight over a small area some of the one's on the link are even brighter and cheaper.
http://www.torchythebatteryboy.com/p/bike-light-database.html
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brackwell
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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2011, 05:40:25 PM »

I am thinking you are asking about mains power?

A GU10 spotlight with a LED bulb would be good because you can buy them to give give daylight white and more importantly there is a range of light angles to chose from 30/60/120 degrees.  For a given watts you can effectively increase the level of light by choosing a bulb with a narrower angle.  My wife uses a 5w  30 deg  bulb for reading with and thinks its great but even a 3w one is pretty good.

Ken
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Bodidly
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2011, 06:47:00 PM »

Sorry got carried away with cycle lights due to a good ride last night. For mains powered how about this.                                             http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15w-15-led-1500lm-warm-white-flood-light-projection-lamp-220v-54855   


Beau
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talisman
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« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2011, 07:18:07 PM »

I bought a couple of these (2nd hand on fleabay for about £20 a pair) and found to be brilliant, can take a fair bit mis-use. Best is they do not produce any heat, so can safetly work in tight spaces without fear of fire or scorching yourself.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thorsman-Goliath-G250-PLUS-240V-Work-Light-BNIB-/230461817369?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item35a8984219
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markp
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« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2011, 09:21:18 PM »

I just posted elsewhere about LED tubes, but these would probably suit your needs perfectly providing you have a 240v supply nearby. A tripod with a 2ft or 4ft IP65 fitting on it modified to accomodate LED bulbs instead of standard tubes would probably work really well.

PM me if you want more info, I've got a friend who is using a similar setup for examining car paintwork as the lights are very bright.

Cheers,
Mark
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KLD
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« Reply #7 on: November 25, 2011, 11:20:16 AM »

Quote
...but I don't know how to convert 'Luminance 16CD' to lumens, and it's battery powered rather than mains.

I'm fully with you, and have looked it up in Wikipedia without lasting effect in my memory. So, as a morning exercise, I revisited those pages.

Light -- as perceived by humans -- is a subjective matter. The eyes don't see all wavelengths, and those that they do see, are not all seen with equal sensitivity. Take an easy example, an IR emitting LED. Although one could measure the emitted power ("radiant flux") using some physical measurement tool, the eye would still not see anything. If we take two LEDs, one red and one green, and the tool tells us the power is equal for both, our eyes will tell us the green one appears brighter.
Thus, the standardised "luminosity function" tells us how much more power the red LED would need to emit before the eye sees green and red LEDs as equally bright.
And if we now had measured ALL light that was emitted from the LED (that is, in all directions), and normalised it with the luminosity function, then this quantity would be expressed in units of "lumen, lm".
But how useful is that? In an application like a worklamp, we want to make sure the lamp lights up the work piece. So, we want a measure of how much light is radiated into a certain direction.  This is where the "luminous intensity" measured in units of "candela, cd" comes in: this is as before the emitted power (in Watts), weighted with the sensitivity of the eye, but measured per solid angle instead of as a sum of all directions. So, candela equals lumen per steradian.  

Apparently, the EU tries to help us out of this confusing question: "On 1 September 2010, European Union legislation came into force mandating that lighting equipment must be labelled primarily in terms of lumens, instead of watts of electricity consumed.[5] "

The 127-LED worklight you linked to is spec'ed with "Luminance 16CD". Erm, "luminance" is a measure for how much light a given surface emits, for example a computer monitor. Measured in cd/m². But let's assume they meant "luminous intensity". If the worklight emitted a beam angle to illuminate say 120°, than that equals a solid angle of pi steradian. To calculate the approximate equivalent "lumen" value, we just multiply the candela rating with this assumed illumination angle: 16 cd*pi sr equals approx. 50 lumen. 50 lm out of 127LEDs?

In summary: I'd stay well clear of that worklight, unless the seller / manufacture provides more meaningful information (or at least adhere to the mentioned EU directive).


Klaus
« Last Edit: November 25, 2011, 11:24:05 AM by KLD » Logged
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