srooks
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« on: January 05, 2012, 06:06:49 PM » |
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Can anyone recommend a product for making ceiling downlights airtight?
With the latest building regs .. I'm assuming this is standard practice these days?
I'm trying to reduce heatloss upstairs.
thanks,
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spluger
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2012, 06:11:51 PM » |
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fire rated ones seem to be
my standard ones i put in my bedroom i sorted with clear silicon. stopped all drafts but will be fun when bulb change time comes.
David
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pb
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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2012, 06:15:28 PM » |
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Any fire-rated downlight (i.e. with a builtin can) will most likely be already airtight. You can put a bead of silicone on the back of the mounting flange if it isn't sealing tightly against the ceiling. Separate fire hoods are harder to make completely airtight and if that's what you have then it is probably easiest to replace them with fire rated luminaires.
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srooks
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« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2012, 08:00:49 PM » |
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Would you still need to leave a gap around insulation above the ceiling (glass wool) if using these sealed, fired rated downlighters?
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wookey
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« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2012, 10:24:20 PM » |
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I could only find fire caps at about a tenner each, which seemed extortionate, so found some tin cans the right size and siliconed them in place.
Better still is to get rid of the holes entirely and surface-mount your lighting. Sounds like a bit late for that in your case.
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Wookey
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srooks
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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2012, 09:49:31 AM » |
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Yes .. too late. Down lights been installed for years.
Upturned plant pots have also been suggested .. so I'll go and improvise!
thanks.
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pb
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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2012, 10:39:11 AM » |
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Would you still need to leave a gap around insulation above the ceiling (glass wool) if using these sealed, fired rated downlighters?
Check with the manufacturer, but usually yes. I think some types will allow you to cover the fitting if you use a non-dichroic halogen or CFL. As far as I know nobody permits that with dichroic lamps. |
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langstroth3
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2012, 10:44:43 AM » |
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Upturned plant pots have also been suggested .. so I'll go and improvise! That's what I used - to hold the insulation away from halogen down lights (yes, yes I know - but as they are not on that much I don't consider it worth replacing them)  |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2012, 10:49:09 AM by langstroth3 »
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pb
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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2012, 11:45:04 AM » |
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I could only find fire caps at about a tenner each, which seemed extortionate, so found some tin cans the right size and siliconed them in place.
Yes, they do seem very expensive for what they are. The going rate seems to be about £6+VAT for the small ones and, given that an entire fire-rated downlight assembly only costs something like £7+VAT (and requires less faffing around to install), the separate hoods don't seem to be very good value for money. Better still is to get rid of the holes entirely and surface-mount your lighting. Sounds like a bit late for that in your case.
Agreed. For some reason architects seem to love recessed downlighters and often specify them as a default choice (ours suggested something like six in every room!) but there are usually better ways to light a building. |
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garethpuk
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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2012, 01:16:23 PM » |
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How about shower rated downlighters? They must be sealed as they are 240volt and ok for all bathroom zones. I've just looked on someones (not sure if I can mention names?) site and they have them for £3.74 each. Cheaper than hoods, easy to swap and bulbs not included so you can use the existing ones.
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srooks
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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2012, 01:41:46 PM » |
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Presumably shower rated downlighters still get hot? Can you safely pack insulation directly on-top of these?
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pb
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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2012, 01:48:56 PM » |
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How about shower rated downlighters? They must be sealed as they are 240volt and ok for all bathroom zones. I've just looked on someones (not sure if I can mention names?) site and they have them for £3.74 each. Cheaper than hoods, easy to swap and bulbs not included so you can use the existing ones.
Strictly speaking, bathroom zone 1 (I assume you don't literally mean "all zones") only requires IPX4 which can be quite a long way from being airtight. You really need IPX7 or better to be sure of a decent seal. In practice I think most IPX6 luminaires probably are also fairly well sealed although it would be quite possible to make one that wasn't. |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2012, 01:54:59 PM by pb »
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Baz
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« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2012, 02:48:45 PM » |
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I would think an uninsulated unairtight bathroom fitting when off would become a condensation magnet.
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SolarController
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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2012, 03:27:01 PM » |
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I purchsed these "Fire Rated Cast Downlighter GU10 11W".
The specs say :
•30, 60, 90 min Fire Rated
•Complies to Building regs Part B, E
•Includes 11w Low Energy CFL Lamp
But they are not completely airtight, There are some small holes in the top to let the heat out. Yes they are a condensation magnet.
Just my tuppence to the story
Solarcontroller
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garethpuk
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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 04:03:40 PM » |
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Strictly speaking, bathroom zone 1 (I assume you don't literally mean "all zones") only requires IPX4 which can be quite a long way from being airtight. You really need IPX7 or better to be sure of a decent seal. In practice I think most IPX6 luminaires probably are also fairly well sealed although it would be quite possible to make one that wasn't. [/quote] The description is IP64 for zones 1,2 or 3, I did look for the IP rating earlier but couldnt see it, this time is was totally obvious!!  |
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