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Bodidly
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« Reply #30 on: January 10, 2012, 07:38:21 PM » |
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I am learning to use scetchup so I drew this.  Beau
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« Last Edit: January 10, 2012, 10:19:13 PM by Bodidly »
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guydewdney
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« Reply #31 on: January 10, 2012, 08:20:26 PM » |
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I had considered a gymbal.... but thats just mad. 
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Philip R
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« Reply #32 on: January 10, 2012, 09:46:27 PM » |
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Guy, Bearing failure again. Sounds like you need a bush made of DU ( Not depleted Uranium), but a bearing material develeoped by the former Glacier bearings. They have been used on large steam turbines to accomodate axial thermal expansion. Have a look at http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/DU__Type-1630-c. If this serves your purpose and is reliable, you can by me a pint some time! I found these on google, but DU is good for a dry system. If you have water around, which is extremely likely, not really a problem. Good luck, PhilipR.
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guydewdney
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« Reply #33 on: January 10, 2012, 10:09:20 PM » |
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similarly - http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/GB150100DX_Split_Bearing_Bush-17223-p is a 150mm bearing - I was considering separating the two motions, the spinning and the wobble. The spinning can be accomodated with a bearing as above - they make it the right size (150mm ID) for 13 quid! I just need a spherical 155mm id bearing to take up the wobble... I would expect the sphere to slowly migrate round as the wobble did its thing, thus spreading the wear onto the whole surface. The 150mm bush is so cheap that it can be replaced yearly with no problem. hmmmm.
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knighty
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« Reply #34 on: January 10, 2012, 10:47:36 PM » |
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guy, I popped in to see the bearing guy today is the sleeve you put on the end of the shaft tapered ? the bearing number you mentioned (23130K) is a tapered bearing (so if you've been miss sold the bearing that will make the wobble much worse) he says the wobble won't be a problem for the right bearing if you could put up a picture of the bearing as it is now, and pm me your mobile number I'll drop them off and have him call you ? he had a load of different ideas... but I couldn't answer many of his questions so we were a bit stuck (even if you don't buy one from him, you can always pick his brain  )
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guydewdney
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« Reply #35 on: January 11, 2012, 09:10:52 AM » |
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Ah - theres two almost identical bearings - one is taper bore, one is cylindrical - I have the cylindrical - definately.
The problem isnt the bearing per se - its the seal that has failed, which has let water in, which despite having a drip feed of thick (320wt) oil almost 24/7 has caused the bearing to sieze. I dont know if there is any damage to the shaft yet.
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knighty
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« Reply #36 on: January 11, 2012, 09:24:32 AM » |
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cool, I'll drop in and see him again today/tomorrow I think it's the K on the end of the bearing number which represents taper or not taper 
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SteveH
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« Reply #37 on: January 11, 2012, 12:02:09 PM » |
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Just had a thought... Might there be a flexible civil engineering support, like they use in road bridges & for isolation of structural supports from foundations, that could be used to help the bearing to absorber the misalignment movements...
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Preveli, South Crete.
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knighty
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« Reply #38 on: January 11, 2012, 10:00:34 PM » |
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I dropped your number off for him today Guy so expect his call
btw, if he uses the slang "kill it" that means it'll do it easy not it'll break it... (it's local slang, and he uses it every 2 min.... could be confusing for a southerner!)
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camillitech
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« Reply #39 on: January 13, 2012, 04:32:15 PM » |
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Hi Guy, if you do decide to go down the Cooper bearing route (after first sorting the 'wobble' ) let me know as I have a man on the case who may be able to source some good second hand ones and a carrier. Not sure if they're 125 or 150 right enough and won't know until next week.
Paul
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http://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/12kw Lister 11m turbine tower 10 hundred ah 48v battery bank 900' pennstock 8kw woodburner 7kw Lister 6 bladed Rutland 50w of solar 4 and a half Kw inverter 3kw Lister 2 hydro turbines and a Proven in a pear tree :-) Raasay, 57 27 537 N 06
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RobNute
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« Reply #40 on: January 17, 2012, 04:29:06 AM » |
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Hi Guy, hope you have the bearing sorted. One thing that I thought of regarding straightening the shaft would be to grind away a 10mm wide ring of your new sleeve to reveal the old bearing and make a v shaped piece of 8mm steel plate that could support the shaft in the new groove, you could then turn the wheel on this and regrind the new sleeve and get rid of the wobble. As the steel plate would be running on the old bearing / journal then it should run true. Probably one of those ideas that will take ages to do, still not work and mess up your new sleeve but thought I would stick my idea in the mix! Hope everything else is good , best wishes.
Rob
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guydewdney
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« Reply #41 on: January 17, 2012, 08:03:41 AM » |
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No - havent decided what to do yet. looking at a glacier bearing inside a spherical bearing - so the glacier takes the turning, whilst the sphere takes the wobble. Or a similar arrangement, but in 'plastic' - eg http://www.beldamcrossley.co.uk/product-detail.asp?productid=54the original bearing was chewed up - hence the sleeve..... Its not exactly a good bearing surface! Thanks anyway Rob.
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knighty
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« Reply #42 on: January 18, 2012, 12:45:15 AM » |
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guy, was the bearing guy I passed your number onto any good ?
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guydewdney
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« Reply #43 on: January 18, 2012, 08:05:41 AM » |
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havent spoken to him - whats the company, I'll ring him?
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knighty
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« Reply #44 on: January 18, 2012, 11:25:40 AM » |
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http://www.bearingtraders.com/Branches.aspxyou want the Bishop Auckland branch I don't know the guys name (there's a couple of guys there working for him too) .... but if you say your mate came in and talked to him about a waterwheel bearing he'll know who you are and you'll be talking to the right guy :-)
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