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Author Topic: Multipoint locks  (Read 421 times)
wookey
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« on: January 27, 2012, 02:35:38 PM »

I'm making (OK, getting made) a super-insulated garage door (timber double door). As the other doors have multipoint locks it seems sensible  to do this on the garage too. However I a confused by the vast array of hardware available: about 10 manufacturers and a host of option: 2-roller 4 roller, finger-bolts, hook bolts, 'day latch' 'rim latch' terminology for operation. Does any of this matter?

Why would one choose hook-bolts vs finger-bolts, either for the main catch or the subsidiary catches? Is it different with a double-door vs a single door (shrinkage+hook-bolts might be a problem in the long term?

The three systems in the existing doors all work slightly differently. The GU one in the front door stops the handle moving when it's locked (this is good - you can tell if it's locked on just by pushing the handle - you don't have to try and open the door). The KFV one in the two newest doors doesn't block the handle this way. Is there a name for this difference?

Why does the lock mechanism specify a setback? shouldn't that only be a feature of where the rout is put in the frame and thus you need the corresponding length lock cyclinder and handle spigot?

When you buy a mutlipoint lock does that include the hardware for the jamb/other door? I assume it must but they never seem to say so.

And what's the bit about rollers? I have no clue about that.
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Wookey
JohnS
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« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2012, 03:24:34 PM »

I can't answer everything, but I can make a start.

Will you be regularly using the garage for a car and therefore be opening both doors?
Do you want to be able to lock the door from the inside, the outside or both? and open it from the otherside?

With double doors, you need some way of securing the first door in the shut position, so that the second door can lock to it. Usually pulling an unsecured pair of doors will burst open a lock unless a some sort of hook bolt is used.

http://www.banham.co.uk/locks/door-locks/   scroll down to the M2002

Although by using a hasp and padlock, you can prevent the doors being pulled apart.

The first door will be secured shut with bolts, ideally one into the floor and one into the head jamb.  If wanted, these can be locking bolts.

To improve draught proofing, the two doors should have a rebate like this

****** *********
******** *******

instead of

****** ******
****** ******

But this will allow the second door to only open in one direction.  Should not be a problem.

Rollers etc make it harder to break into a lock.  Instead of hacksawing a steel bolt, you have to saw a roller which keeps rotating making it difficult to saw.

John
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wookey
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« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2012, 05:52:49 PM »

The door will only rarely be opened. Mostly if I need to fix the car or get a large item in/out (e.g. ladder). Opening both doors will be a great rarity. It might get used for moped/bike storage and thus get used daily. I've accepted that opening and locking only from the outside is fine (and good for thermal characteristics).

I plan to use head and foot lever bolts on the secondary leaf, mounted on the side of the jamb, so invisible when door is closed. Yes it will have a rebate with EPDM seal for airtightness.

Hooks seem like a good idea for double doors as stated.
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Wookey
pb
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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2012, 10:00:17 PM »

Why does the lock mechanism specify a setback? shouldn't that only be a feature of where the rout is put in the frame and thus you need the corresponding length lock cyclinder and handle spigot?

Do you mean "backset"?  If so, this is the dimension in the other plane: i.e. the distance from the edge of the door to the point where the spindle passes through.  Whether or not this dimension matters a great deal depends on how wide the door stiles are and what sort of door furniture (knob vs lever and size of backplate/rose) you plan on using.

The point at which the lock mechanism is routed into the door is, as you say, fairly arbitrary and it's just a case of getting the right cylinder to match.  If you are trying to secure a pair of double doors then, unless they are very thick, you will end up with an asymmetric positioning because otherwise there won't be enough thickness on the outside of the lock to rebate the two leaves against each other.

I don't know of any name for the difference in handle behaviour that you mention.
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wookey
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« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2012, 12:42:14 AM »

Ah, thanks for clearing up that backset issue. I had indeed got the wrong end the stick there.
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Wookey
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