Any one used an auger for fence posts?

[MN]

I have to do some fence replacing and need to replace about 50 4 inch round posts.  I can manage about 4 a day with a manual post rammer (Dig 1 foot hole and ram the posts another foot).  After 4 my back tells me to stop.  At this rate I’ll never finish 

I was thinking of getting a Makita PD491 Auger Post Hole Borer

Any one used an auger for fence posts?

I was thinking of getting a 4 inch bit (the posts are a bit over 4inches) and drilling leaving 6 inches to ram by hand – figuring it should be easier to ram once the hole is there.

Just wondered if anyone had tried it and got any tips – or is this a doomed plan?

MN

[guydewdney]

depends on the ground you have. here is river bed, with potato size rocks. the technique is to use an iron bar (6 foot long, 1.5" diameter, spiky end) to ram a hole, then run it in a circle enlarging it a bit, repeat. Then use a tube type post rammer and two people....

I have used a post borer, but they make a hell of a mess of the hole, that the only way to get a nice finish is to fill the hole with postcrete.

[MN]

We have heavy clay

The mess bit was what I was worried about

I am almost tempted to go for a 3 inch bit just to aid ramming

Or a 6 inch bit and use postcreate – only trouble with that is when they rot in 10 years I will be cursing using the postcreate!

[Bodidly]

We put posts in the same way as Guy. I have used a tractor mounted auger for 6"x6" posts for a barn but this was not quick especially if you hit rocks.

[desperate]

We have heavy clay too, I have found those metposts quite good and save a load of time. Timber into concrete always rots away after a while. Concrete into concrete is the best but pricey and hard work. I tried an auger once, but after about a foot couldn't turn it, even with 2 big Polish blokes on the end of it.

Guys wiggly crowbar idea sounds best to me.

Desp

[dhaslam]

Try a quote from a local fence erector.   It might not cost much more than buying the equipment.   I have a nearly 1/4 mile of fencing around the site  and the posts were driven in by a tractor mounted  post driver like the one below.   The site is heavy clay with layered rocks.    In a few places the rock had to be dug out with  a JCB  but most went in OK with a bit of persuasion.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvpuvaLUqaM

[camillitech]

Done a lot of fencing in all types of ground and Guy's way is the best, only if they're square posts I'd make up a tool to stop them turning. I use a short length of 100mm box section with a handle welded on, drop the box section over the post and get someone to hold it square whilst you ram. We have everything here, raised beach, clay, peat and rock yet I've never seen anyone use an auger.

Good luck, Paul

[clockmanFR]

MN, I agree with guydewdney, 2 meter long steel crowbar, point one end flat the other.

I have just finished fencing 250 meters of our south field boundary, but where i have no trees or substantial hedge wood, then i use 130mm dia wood posts.
 I make a hole with the Steel bar and keep going backwards and forwards with it, if its stony ground the crowbar normally gets through.
I normally let the crowbar go down to 700mm then ram your post down, gives me about 500mm of post in the ground, its surprising how quick it goes in if you have a starter hole. In reasonable ground and over many years i can do about 40 a day.

Keeps you fit.

Excellent time of year to be post holing, as the deep ground is wet.

Fencing tools.    Just finished.     Some i did 6 years ago and the hedge is coming to shape.

[MN]

Try a quote from a local fence erector.

The trouble is it is not just a straight fence run – it is repairing and replacing rotted posted in an existing fence.  I got 3 quotes – 1 over 2 grand, 2 ‘will get back to me’ (2 months ago)  and one who just said no – it was too much like hard work (at least he was honest!)

I’ve done about 15 – and the easiest ones are where the old post comes out whole and I ram a slightly larger post in.   Hence thinking is I could dig a ‘pilot’ hole with an Auger – it might save my back a bit!

[MN]

I can do about 40 a day.

Wow – I am impressed considering how many I managed and the state of my back this morning!!!

Agreed about the ground though – normally I would soak water into the hole before ramming but at the minute it is just right.

Like the fence!

[regen]

"Done a lot of fencing in all types of ground and Guy's way is the best, only if they're square posts I'd make up a tool to stop them turning. I use a short length of 100mm box section with a handle welded on, drop the box section over the post and get someone to hold it square whilst you ram."

Great tip Paul! I am sure the missus would rather hold onto a bar a yard away from the post when I am hitting it with an aluminium headed mallet and moaning because she is unable to hold the post square!

Regen

[clockmanFR]

whoops,
MN,  No1 pic shows the blue rammer upside down, ie the other end is hollow so your stake slides inside. At 2.2m or so the stake is a .ugger to hit with a hammer as its so tall, so the rammer is perfect.

The sledge hammer is only for compacting the ground around your stake when your finished.

[Justme]

If you dig / auger a hole then every thing that comes out of the hole must go back in the hole with the post.


I use a 12" auger fitted to a 4 tonne mini digger for the (will do 5 foot deep if needed) gate posts & strainers. The fence posts get done with a manual thumper & spike as above.

[stannn]

MN
I recommend that you listen to your back and keep taking it slowly or one morning you'll not be able to get out of bed. Twisting exercises on your back on the floor (aka yoga) after each thumping session are very helpful.
Stan

[MN]

If you dig / auger a hole then every thing that comes out of the hole must go back in the hole with the post.

Why?  When I used holes from previous posts they seemed fine (slightly wider post)