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dan_aka_jack
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« on: January 31, 2008, 01:15:40 PM » |
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It turns out our 1905 house has no cavities in the exterior walls. What are our options for adding insulation to the walls?
In particular, we're about to re-build our bathroom. Is there a thin* material I could cover the walls in which would significantly improve the walls' insulation?
* By "thin" I mean no thicker than plasterboard.
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Paulh_Boats
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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2008, 01:40:48 PM » |
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Your best bet is Kingspan (extruded polyurethane I think) and you need about 50mm to meet building regs, which are not compulsory but a good target. They supply it bonded to plasterboard.
Other options are wood battens screwed to the wall, filled with insulation then capped with plasterboard.
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KenB
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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2008, 01:52:14 PM » |
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Jack, Turn your thermostat down to 1 degree below your neighbour's. That way his heat flows through the party wall into your house  Ken
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rhys
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« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2008, 01:53:30 PM » |
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Unless you can afford Spacetherm distributed by Proctors www.spacetherm.com
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rhys
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« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2008, 01:55:03 PM » |
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Jack, Turn your thermostat down to 1 degree below your neighbour's. That way his heat flows through the party wall into your house  Ken Keep dreaming Ken -  we all know YOU can't do that!!
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« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 02:39:05 PM by rhys »
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KenB
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« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2008, 02:10:44 PM » |
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Rhys, List, I have been keeping my unoccupied neighbour's semi-detached house frost free for the last 7 winters  If my hall is at 16C and his is at 10C, which way does the heat flow through the party wall? "Ye canny change the laws of physics"  Ken
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dan_aka_jack
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« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2008, 02:45:20 PM » |
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Thanks for all the replies!
Is Kingspan something I can get from Screwfix / B&Q (a websearch on Screwfix for "Kingspan" gave 0 results).
Also - what are the options for cladding the exterior walls? I presume that gladding an entire house would be, um, very expensive?!
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KenB
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« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2008, 02:55:04 PM » |
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Jack,
Wickes have just started selling plain 50mm Kingspan/Celotex - but you will find it cheaper from an ebay specialist supplier.
Ken
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dan_aka_jack
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« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2008, 03:02:44 PM » |
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Cool, thanks for the tip!
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Panda_Badger
Full Member
 
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Posts: 104
Spring Panda
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« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2008, 04:46:42 PM » |
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Hi again Jack, If you have a bit off dosh, you can go the route of polyurethane sheets by either Celotex or Kingspan, screwed to thin battens on the wall as has been stated. If you've got plenty of free space and don't like the thought of using the above for one reason or another, you could do what I have done. In most of my rooms I've built wooden stud partitions against the walls and filled them with rockwool, then foil-backed plasterboard and a skim of plaster. The main bedroom has 200mm (8") of rockwool and only needs very minimal heating, which it receives from the bathroom towel rail. When the external temp' is above 10C the room doesn't need any heating at all.  Even using the thin polly sheet insulation can be a faff to fit as you will find houses are not the squarest or truest of constructions and it can take an age to get the battens right. Have fun. The Panda. By the way, not found an advatar yet?
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Row, row, row yer boat gently down the stream......
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dan_aka_jack
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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2008, 05:03:55 PM » |
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Hi everyone!
Thanks loads for all the replies.
Do I have to screw Kingspan onto battens or can I screw the Kingspan directly onto the existing plaster?
Many thanks, Jack
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Shay
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« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2008, 05:04:55 PM » |
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Jack, The thinest insulation board you can get as far as im aware is the Kingspan Kolltherm K17 rigid phenolic insulated plasterboard with vapour control layer. It has a thermal conductivity of 0.021 W/mK. More expensive than polyureathane of course. Check the link below: http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/pdf/k17.pdf
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rhys
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« Reply #12 on: January 31, 2008, 05:30:32 PM » |
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Hi everyone!
Thanks loads for all the replies.
Do I have to screw Kingspan onto battens or can I screw the Kingspan directly onto the existing plaster?
Many thanks, Jack
Dab fix with plasterboard adhesive, then screw with frame anchors to keep in place in case of fire. Make sure there is a continuous ribbon of adhesive around the edge of each board. Also foam fill with intumescent expanding foam around any gaps at the edges. This is very important to stop any air movement behind the insulation which negates it effectiveness. This is all on the kingspan - Kooltherm website. If the existing plaster is not too difficult to remove you could remove it if you are tight for space. My finished wall and window here: http://navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,2559.msg21038.html#msg21038
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« Last Edit: February 20, 2008, 07:12:10 PM by rhys »
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dan_aka_jack
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« Reply #13 on: January 31, 2008, 07:10:40 PM » |
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OK, great advice - thank you.
Jack
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Darren8512
Newbie
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Posts: 31
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« Reply #14 on: January 31, 2008, 07:30:14 PM » |
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Hi Wickes do an insulation that you put on the wall and board over the top (no studding). http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161189 It`s only 30mm so that and board will only be about 42.5mm if using 12.5 board less if you use 9.5mm board. Not sure of R-value. Hope this helps. Darren.
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