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Author Topic: Solar Heated Water for Washing Machines with a Cold Feed only.  (Read 41856 times)
guydewdney
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« Reply #75 on: March 21, 2008, 08:01:45 PM »

also to capcave - my missus has a meile vacuum - its brilliant. yet seems fundamentally identical to similar looking items from other manufacturers. It has an incredible 'suck'!

My dyson, good that it is, isnt as good.

a panasonic upright we bought is apalling.

Meile seem expensive, but my god are they good. and take horrendous abuse.
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Capcave
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« Reply #76 on: March 21, 2008, 08:28:42 PM »

Wookey,
There are other studies which are much the same sort of thing.  I usually find that leaving the dishes in the sink for a while - (they seem to gather there anyway) the performance is far better especially the porridge bowls. With 4 kids though I am lucky if it only does one run a day! The mother-in-law doesn't believe that the dishwasher is better for the environment hence the search for the research Smiley

Guy - I got a chest freezer by Miele as well which also great - triple A rated and way better than the Zanussi I had before.
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Ivan
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« Reply #77 on: March 21, 2008, 11:15:46 PM »

I'm a big fan of Miele, having started to replace our equipment with Miele as it becomes non viable to continue repairing.

However, I will also recommend our Ariston dishwasher (does Ariston still exist?) - it's run for just over 15years, without a fault. Actually, a couple of months ago, the 'rinse aid' part has started to leak. I can live without that....
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Mickey
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« Reply #78 on: April 03, 2008, 01:30:19 PM »

Hi All - thanks, very interesting posts.  It's been over 6 weeks since I raised the topic and my solution has been to run the W/M from a hot solar feed only.    The washes are done either at 30degC or 40degC depending on the load.    Touch wood up to now all going fine.

I'm waiting for the next meter reading check to see what the economies are.

One other thing is that recently our water jug went duff and I've bought the Tefal Quick Cup.   It has a flash boiler that issues a cup full of water in about 5 secs.    I've read that it's not quite 100degC but it's good enough  -  More savings

Mickey
« Last Edit: April 03, 2008, 01:48:45 PM by Mickey » Logged
mick
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« Reply #79 on: April 10, 2008, 11:16:57 PM »

Only just spotted this thread.....and the answer is....


FISHER and PAYKEL - a New Zealand top loader washing machine that uses a stepper motor to drive, spin, agitate directly. Mine's a top loader bought on eBay. At first sight it seems to be an empty box with a stainless steel drum surrounded by plastic tub inside. Washes and spins like a dream. Here's the punch line - IT HAS NO HEATER AT ALL. Water temp is determined by mixing hot / cold fill. I bought it to replace a series of old Hotpoint top loaders we had over many years (all second hand) and failing to locate any new machines without just cold fill.

See  http://www.fisherpaykel.co.nz/laundry/?productUid=CC64CA46-CD5E-F4E5-6079B974F49880C1 Also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisher_&_Paykel

Perhaps Ivan should enquire about importing them - they sell well in Australia, Canada and USA and have a good reputation for reliability.

Problem solved?

Mick.

« Last Edit: April 10, 2008, 11:18:56 PM by mick » Logged
colinstone
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« Reply #80 on: April 15, 2008, 12:12:38 AM »

I've been grumbling about this for sometime as I want a machine on a boat where there is oodles of hotwater when the engine and generator are running.  We have a Bosch Precison (2000) at home which is H&C fill.  Fed from HW tank 10m away via 15mm pipe.  40 and 60C washes use about 0.24kwh, measured with a meter, and the soap drawer is hot after the initial fill.  Wanted to put a new machine on the boat.  The only H&C fill machine out there is a LG?? But it is next to useless as it only takes hot water when the wash temp is higher than the hot water temp.  With all the computer power and fuzzy logic in these modern machines, surely they can blend the incoming water as required?? Clearly the logic of the manufacturers is extremely fuzzy.  They do not deserve an A rating.

Anyway back to the solution.  The Indesit WIXXL 146 with temp control seems to offer potential and I reckon with 2 valves, a NC and NO, a TMV and a switch one can make a simple system.  Basically the NO valve is in the cold fill line.  The hot and cold are fed into the adjustable TMV and supplied to a NC valve.  Both are wired to a on-off switch.  When wash starts, TMV is set to wash temp and switch made, which closes NO valve in cold line and opens NC valve in TMV output line.  Washing machine takes initial fill from TMV line.  When finished, switch to off and NO valve opens and NC valve closes.  For the rest of the wash the cold fill is used.  Or one could fill manually through the soap tray before starting  - Bosch have at least told me that an 6kg load requires an initial fill of 12 ltrs.

Any comments???

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dhaslam
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« Reply #81 on: April 15, 2008, 12:56:10 AM »

The A rating should be reserved for machines which can take in hot and cold water and mix it.   Dishwashers should be the same.  The other thing with washing machines is to remove most of the water when spinning.  This saves even more if a drier is used.
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rob26440
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« Reply #82 on: April 16, 2008, 08:21:30 AM »

Quote
Or one could fill manually through the soap tray before starting 

Been doing that for 15 years.  Even with H&C fill machines.  No need for fancy valves/control systems.  Never been a problem.  No shrinkage disasters.  No floods.  Just takes a couple of mins effort at the start of each load to put in the correct volume at approximately the correct temp.  Very rarely see the spinning wheel in the corner of the garage (leccy meter) do more than a couple of extra turns.

Also have a good old-fashioned spin dryer (300w) on an external 6min timer (why don't spin dryers have a built in timer?) to take out additional water after the machine has done its (reasonable) job.  This is only used if the washing can't be dried outside and prior to using the dreaded tumble dryer (2.4Kw).
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« Reply #83 on: March 17, 2009, 02:43:45 PM »

I know i'm dragging this thread out of its grave but it has some interesting information

A couple of things regarding washing temp, i don't use any commercially produced washing detergents and instead make my own castile (pure olive oil)soap which i grate and add borax and soda crystals. I don't know how well soap dissolves at ambient (or 'cold') temperatures, but at least initially it puts me out of the camp of people who use cold compatible detergents

although off topic, someone mentioned fabric softener, anyone using fabric softener should switch to distilled white vinegar, not only is it loads cheaper and better for the environment than those crapper bottles of chemicals, it will rinse the soap out of your washing without degrading the absorbtion qualities, so even our towels get softened!
(and no, your washing doesn't smell of vinegar and if you like you can scent the vinegar with a few 3-5 drops of your favorite essential oil)

I'm currently in the process of moving my DHW cylinder to the bathroom (and fitting solar directly above it) so it is closer to all the outlets, this puts it about 2m away from the washing machine. also i've discovered there is a hot feed disconnected next to the machine, obviously once used for a H&C fill machine.
Inspired by this thread i'm going to do some experimenting. Although modern, it is quite a simple machine and hopefully won't give me too much trouble

Initially i'll try just switching the input to the hot pipe (when i know the cylinder isn't too hot, 30-40 degrees) and see how it reacts.
If that works i'll look at getting a cheapish TMV to hook in both H&C for permanent use, I'll probably put a valve in the Hot feed and use a timer to tell me to manually switch it off ready for the rinses
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Paulh_Boats
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« Reply #84 on: March 17, 2009, 04:59:43 PM »

All,

Apologies for further dragging this thread out even more but you might be interested in a spot of ping-pong email I had with ISE Appliances. It reminds me of the Monty Python sketch "did you pay for the 5 minute argument or do you want the full half hour?". 

Read on:


Dear Sirs,

Does your washing machine accept Solar Hot water?

This is the future (within the life of your machine!) - I have a solar panel that heats hot water for free. So ideally a washing machine would:
Divert the hot fill via a special outlet to a rainwater collection or drain...to purge the pipe of cold water.
When hot enough it would fill the machine with hot water, adding cold only if necessary.
After that NO electric should be used to heat water. Repeat NO heating!

There is an industry trend to cold fill only. This is WRONG environmentally; not only do we need hot fill restored we need advanced hot fill to perform like my suggestion. With a solar panel hot water is free so electric heating should be eliminated, perhaps with a simple switch.

On the Navitron renewable energy forum the topic of eco-friendly washing machines is often discussed, but none of the pioneers are happy with the Industry status quo. At the moment "eco-friendly washing machine" is an oxymoron and many pioneering environmentalists like the old machines with no fancy computer and simple switches for heating/no heating.

See:

http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6352.0.html

I would be glad to discuss these technical ideas further

best regards
Paul


Hi Paul,


There are, currently, no machines on the market that fill intelligently in the way that would allow this to work in such a way as to save you money or heating water in the machine itself I'm afraid. In fact it is rare these days to see one that has hot fill as, due to the low fill levels on modern A Class washers the amount of water drawn is usually not enough to draw any hot water from the system. Any machines with a hot fill capability will generally only fill with hot for one fill on a 90˚C or higher wash after the pre-wash stage and at no other time.

In effect, the actual amount of warm water used will be very dependent on the length and bore of the pipework to the machine which will determine how much water is lying cold in the pipe itself.

Therefore, while in theory drawing from your heated water saves energy in practice it very much depends on the length of the pipe from your heat source to your tap or the time till hot from a combi or condenser boiler. In the vast majority of homes the pipe run is too far or heat time is too long (often both) and the customer ends to paying a premium for a hot and cold fill machine which is actually operating as cold fill. All it effectively does is fill your pipes with hot water which goes to waste. Because of this we do not supply hot and cold fill as one offs to individual members of the public as it is highly unlikely that it will save them any money in the vast majority of cases.

To demonstrate this take a 1.5 litre empty plastic bottle and fill it from your hot tap. In the vast majority of cases the water will be at best luke warm and in the vast majority of cases it will be stone cold and need to be heated to wash temperature in any event.

To get hot water to the tap means running off the cold water lying in the pipework and effectively wasting that water, to fill intelligently would require that you waste the same water for every instance where the hot fill is called for. Of course in areas where water use is metered this is costly as well as impractical.

Asides from which there are a host of other problems with hot fill, not least of which being that you cannot control the incoming temperature which can cause damage as well as cause detergents not to work as they should since they are designed to operate on a temperature curve, not immediate immersion in hot water.

I hope that helps but if you need any more information please feel free to ask.


Kenneth Watt
ISE Appliances Limited


Kenneth,

Thank you for your reply. I fully understand all the issues you raise.

But the eco-warriors purge the pipes of cold water before starting the machine. Some of them even have pumps to recirculate water back into the header tank until the feed is hot! The latter will not waste any water at all.....alternatively my suggestion of a grey water outlet into a rainwater collection tank allows that water to be used later for flushing toilets, eliminating the waste.

Also many solar installations have thermostatic mixer valves (TMV) set at about 50C to safely limit the hot water at the taps, and many have suggested a TMV set to 30C which when purged would fill the machine at exactly the correct temperature for low temperature detergents.

The current situation is ok for now, but I remind you the Climate Change Act requires 80% emission reduction by 2050 and washing machines, powder and their installations will have to become smarter.
All the features I have suggested will have to be implemented, unless of course the householder can generate renewable electricity on site.

regards
Paul


Hi Paul,


The problem is really very simple, there are not enough homes out there that can take advantage of such a machine and, until there is a good volume that can use such a system the factories will not make machines to take advantage of them as they would only work with such a system. There is, much as is the case with home automation systems, absolutely no clarity on the system protocols used or standardisation of installation and it is therefore not possible to produce thousands of machines to meet a single specification.


Yes, it could be done as nothing is impossible, but at a huge cost due to the low volumes. So large I suspect that nobody would buy a machine capable of this as the cost would be extremely prohibitive, leading to even lower volumes.


We have looked at a system that would syphon off to greywater but it's still on the drawing board and it is incredibly difficult to get funding or indeed interest in such a system as almost anyone operating in the field will tell you.


Regards


Kenneth Watt


Kenneth,
What the environmentalists would settle for is a simple machine. Our old Hotpoint had an Eco button that turned off the heating element and accepted hot water at whatever temperature. That would suit many people perfectly and I'm sure it could be programmed into the software.

Hi Paul,


Can't do that I'm afraid.


The machine cannot be allowed to damage clothes and, I'm afraid, that many users will simply not pay enough attention or care to the instructions. So, we have to default to having it so that the incoming water temperature cannot exceed 30˚C wherever possible or it can ruin delicate and woolen fibres.


Asides from which it still doesn't solve the problem that detergents are designed to work on a temperature curve, not instant immersion in hot water. This leads to poor performance/wash results which means that people re-wash the items, this is proven, and just adds to the environmental problem.


Both of which would also open any manufacturer that did it up to claims for damage caused.


I'm afraid there's an awful lot more to it than the simple fact that it can be done.


Regards

Kenneth Watt
ISE Appliances Limited




Has the world gone mad?
-Paul

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Amy
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« Reply #85 on: March 17, 2009, 05:21:29 PM »

Dear Mr  K Watt

But its not fools day yet  Grin

Oh well, at least you tried Paul
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« Reply #86 on: March 17, 2009, 05:26:30 PM »

Paul the world has gone litigation mad, as the man says 'The machine cannot be allowed to damage clothes' and to that end it has to be made proof against the general public! Or in simple terms Idiot proof!



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Greenbeast
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« Reply #87 on: March 17, 2009, 09:35:43 PM »

Well i ran a test and the machine didn't balk at 40+ degree input on a 40degree wash but it did start the heater after a bit of swishing, i assume this is because the water chilled off a little once in the machine.

So potentially i could run 45-50 degree (or 35-40 for 30degree washes) into the machine and a few degrees will be lost but it won't need to heat.

just trying to figure the best way to make this automatic, i'm thinking a 3 port valve on a countdown timer, set the timer when the machine is set, after given time the flow switches back to cold for rinse
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« Reply #88 on: March 17, 2009, 10:36:33 PM »

Greenbeast,

I think you have a potential solution. The steel drum has a high heat capacity so yes 45C+ input makes sense. If you used an Arduino controller it might be able sense the temperature and adjust the cold/hot ratio. But how about fitting a 50C TMV for all the taps? A bonus is the solar days that give 70-80-90 in the tank are kept safe for the family and visitors.

Ivan has a mate who fitted a pump from the hot pipe near the machine back to the header tank; it runs for 30 seconds to purge the cool water with no waste. I have bought a 10m coil of 10mm of insulation and plan to plumb a direct route from tank to machine using spare 10mm pipe from my solar install; it should significantly reduce the volume of "dead" water and the insulation will keep it warmer, which might help the dishwasher cycles.

hope that helps
cheers
Paul
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« Reply #89 on: March 17, 2009, 11:41:08 PM »

Even if the w/m fills with water that's been standing in the pipe work, it'll still be at 20C or so I'd guess, unless there's been absolutely no draw at all for many hours in a cold house. This would still I'd have thought save some turns of the elec meter compared with taking in mains water at say 10-12C.
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