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Author Topic: Why does my boiler need servicing  (Read 5830 times)
ajstoneservices
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« on: March 11, 2008, 02:41:06 PM »

Had a call from the local builders merchant yesterday, could I have a look at their boiler as it keeps banging and they have noticed soot every where. I went this morning, Bit late for a service now. Undecided

The burner couldn't be withdrawn, the blast tube had split, diffuser blown out

The top cover seals had blown out, air intake tube had blown off the burner. Roll Eyes

Struggled to get the baffles out.

The 4" flue is now more like 1" Shocked

I wonder what the efficiency was like.


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« Last Edit: March 11, 2008, 02:48:05 PM by ajstoneservices » Logged
Ivan
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2008, 04:56:03 PM »

It's a good point. Most people have the boiler serviced when it fails. How do you determine service interval, and how much can it be extended if it is rarely used? Also, is it so important with condensing boilers that have flue gas monitoring - I would assume that these flag some sort of error when there is a problem....then again, there isn't any display. Huh
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ajstoneservices
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2008, 11:59:47 PM »

Gas boiler servicing...

What is a boiler service, exactly?
It's checking, cleaning, testing and preemptive fault spotting, really, with the emphasis on testing all the different functions of an appliance for correct and safe operation.
Why it should be done...
When a boiler or gas appliance appears to be working well, there 'could' be hidden faults. These will be revealed by a proper service. A good example would be the device which turns the gas off if the pilot light blows out. If this fails to work when needed you could have gas leaking into your house, but how do you know if yours still works? This will be tested during the service procedure.
What happens if not carried out regularly...
Well, in most cases, everything will be fine, but you won't know for sure. The whole gas installation is examined and tested for correct installation and operation. A wide variety of things go wrong with gas installations and the gas regulations exist to make sure installations are safe. Proper servicing, in summary, makes sure your installation is safe.
How often do you want your system to be inspected and confirmed safe? Most manufacturers recommend annually. This is much more important once a boiler is a few years old than when it is brand new in my opinion, and more important if the boiler has an open flue (vertical, chimney-style) rather than a balanced flue (horizontally, through the wall)
This is what is done, or should be done to service a boiler properly, in detail...
There is a laid down procedure in the manufacturers instruction book for every boiler, but for when the instructions are lost or missing there is a default service procedure set out is the CORGI 'bible' for gas engineers, "Essential Gas Safety".

Preliminary examination:
Check with customer whether there are any problems with the system.
Check the appliance location is suitable for the type of appliance.
Check the appliance for any damage before starting work on it.
Check for correct operation of the appliance, including consumer controls and the safety devices.
Check the flame for correct burning.
Check the electrical wiring complies with electrical regulations.
Check for correct clearances from combustible materials.
Examine gas supply pipework for correct installation and clearances.
Check for correct ventilation to the room containing the appliance.
Full service procedure:
Remove main burners, clean and inspect for damage.
Clean and inspect gas injector(s).
Dismantle and clean pilot assembly and gas injector.
Reassemble burners and pilot assembly.
Check condition of ignition leads and electrode.
Clean the heat exchanger.
Refit burner assemblies and check seals.
Test disturbed gas joints for leaks.
Check appliance case and seals (where appliance is room-sealed) for damage and correct assembly.
Check and adjust pilot flame.
Check operation of thermocouple (flame supervision device).
Measure gas pressure and flow rate, and adjust if necessary.
Inspect/test flue for faults/correct operation.
Inspect flue terminal for correct location and protection.
Check system bypass valve (if fitted) is correctly adjusted.
Check sealed system (if fitted) is at correct pressure.
Advise user to have the system checked at least every twelve months or as specified my manufacturer.
Advise user of any defects found in writing.
Apply the Industry Unsafe Situations Procedure if necessary.
Manufacturers' instructions often have many more steps to follow. A proper boiler service takes at least an hour, nearly always more. A gas fire, although appearing to be a more simple appliance, usually takes around the same amount of time because the flue/chimney system needs especially thorough checking.



Oil boiler
To remain efficient your boiler needs to be inspected, cleaned and adjusted regularly - in most cases only once a year for kerosene. This service will usually pay for itself in the economies that result from making sure your boiler continues to work efficiently.
 
Keeping your boiler running can be an expensive business and the longer you've had it, the more expensive it's likely to be to run. It is not always noticeable when a boiler is running below its best. But a dirty boiler, with worn nozzle and poor combustion setting, can be upto 25% lower in efficiency than a clean one with properly working parts. In a year a clean boiler could save you upto 25% off your fuel bills. Inefficient running also increases the chance of boiler failure, which can lead to large repair cost. It makes sense to have your boiler serviced every year to keep it safe and ensure it operates in peak condition.
 
Why have your oil boiler serviced regularly ? ·
To safeguard your system against expensive and inconvenient breakdowns. ·
To maximise efficiency - well maintained boilers use less fuel and save you money. ·   
To extend the useful life of your boiler. ·   
To reduce fumes and emissions, helping you and the environment.

Replace atomiser, filter, oil lines if necessary.
Remove clean baffles/heat exchanger,burner.
Check flue/ventilation, oil tank.
Adjust pump/air settings. smoke test, efficiency test.
Check controls.

Tony





« Last Edit: March 12, 2008, 12:09:42 AM by ajstoneservices » Logged
SimonHa
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« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2008, 09:19:51 AM »

It's a good point. Most people have the boiler serviced when it fails...

I hope that's not actually the case - as pointed out there's actually quite a lot involved with a service (though I suspect Tony is more diligent than many plumbers) and plenty of preventative maintenance that can be done.

I'd contrast this to my Red Care alarm system which is "maintained" - the regular servicing hasn't stopped it failing 3 times so far (failed door sensors).

I suspect that as the electronics in boilers get more sophisticated we will start to see service indicators, rather like those that appeared on German cars 15 years or so ago (in fact it wouldn't surprise me if some have them already - Viessmann, Vaillant etc).

Don't let the govt hear about all these poorly maintained boilers running inefficiently though... otherwise we'll get an "MOT for boilers" forced upon us (and another quango to run it no doubt  Angry ).
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rhys
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« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2008, 09:40:59 AM »

Well we do already have this in the rented sector, "annual boiler maintenance" and gas saftey check is required for any rented house.
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ajstoneservices
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2008, 09:50:54 PM »

We last had it serviced about six years ago it has worked okay until we heard a pop and now we cant get the pilot to light Roll Eyes


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wookey
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2008, 10:46:04 PM »

Is that 'heat exchanger sprang a leak'? Looks horrid.

Ivan - fancier modern boiler have displays (e.g. my new veissman does). It doesn't have a 'service indicator' as such, but it does have a load of fault codes it can display for things like 'Air pressure swtich faulty' and 'return temp sensor lead break', which generally amount to 'needs attention/servicing'.
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Wookey
ajstoneservices
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2008, 10:56:07 PM »

Wookey,
Yes the HE has sprung a leak I guess if it hadn't then it wouldn't have needed a service Shocked

Still they say the replacement we fitted will have an annual service.

Some boilers come with service intervals built-in or you can buy SI controls separately, soon after the controls service set period has passed the system goes into limp mode until serviced/reset.
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Fintray
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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2008, 07:58:03 PM »

My neighbour called me in yesterday, her oil boiler had the lockout light on (blowing a gale and snowing at the time!). I reset the burner and it fired up, so sat and had a cuppa but after about 30mins radiators were only barely warm. Inspection panel on top of boiler was only warm to the touch, back through to get my tools to look into the boiler. On opening the inspection panel I could see the top baffle was distorted and not sitting correctly, removed this and found lower baffle in a similar state. The lower deflector/baffle was completely missing apart from a small piece still attached to the side of the water jacket. The heat from the burner was going straight up past the baffles and up the flue Cry. A quick fabrication with some galvanised track I had spare allowed me to secure the lower baffle and refit the side baffles and top baffle. Also fitted a newish nozzle to the burner and fired it up. After 15mins you could feel the temperature difference in the radiators, checked with them today and boiler still running  Smiley. Suggested to her husband that a new boiler might be a good idea as existing boiler is c. 23yrs old. Laugh is I get an engineer in each year to service my oil boiler!
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byways
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2008, 09:33:33 AM »

I am about to replace a mains gas boiler. Where should I start?  If only I knew now, what I expect I will learn through the selection / quotation stage, I could save a lot of time!

ie type and size will prob be easy to select, but which makes are best, (or best avoided) do I need to consider solar heating at the same time or would that be completely separate installation later, unaffected by a new boiler now! 

Would like to consider an second boiler running on WVO as an alternative heat source. Would that be complex to have plumbed in?

(Boiler is in garage, some distance from tank upstairs, works OK except seems to 'boil' on rare occasions, and can put hot water out of expansion tank overflow,  if too many radiators turned off, has one pair of 22mm pipes to boiler, is probably 18 years old.  Location is NW Herefordshire, are there forum members that supply and service in that area?)
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Flamethrower_
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2008, 06:27:11 PM »

Byways,

If you are considering other heat sources i.e solar, wvo boiler, etc your first consideration should be to fit a cylinder with enough coils to be fed by your heat sources in your case a triple coil would suffice. even if you don't fit all things at once

If I am guessing correctly when you say your existing boiler boils on occassions when too many radiators are turned off on your system. Your system has probably not got an automatic bypass valve to allow sufficient flow of water through the boiler, which will need to fitted on your new installation.

Selection of boiler is a personal choice (worcester bosch, vaillant) as most modern boilers are now pretty reliable and are of the modulating type (variable heat output) but do not oversize the boiler!

Hope thats of some use

Rob

« Last Edit: March 23, 2008, 06:32:58 PM by Flamethrower_ » Logged
byways
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« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2008, 11:45:38 PM »

Thanks Rob,   I was hoping I would not have to change the tank. It could not have a much larger tank fitted in the airing cupboard, and I do not think we need a larger one, to be quite honest. Perhaps the second (or third) coil can be fitted retrospectively with the tank in situ, otherwise it gets a very large job?

Whilst running pipes to Solar panels would be straightforward,  more pipes to the boiler(s) would be a major job.  Can a second boiler (or CHP engine water heater?) be fitted near the first with the pipes teed, in any safe way, and then one side turned off by a motorised valve or solenoid to stop the water heating the one not in use?

So the automatic bypass is something that might have been left out (or not available) 18 years ago, but does not have any significant downside - other than needs fitting?

I would like zone valves, but most of the pipes are underfloor and thus difficult to fit retrospectively.  (There are about 19 rads, rarely more than 1/2 are on).  There may be some 15mm zones valves that could be fitted on 5 individual rads when the pipe rises from the floor, and remote controlled by a radio sender! That with a programmable remote thermostat would improve efficiency.

Chris
« Last Edit: March 23, 2008, 11:56:49 PM by byways » Logged
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