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Author Topic: 1wire ADC for monitoring thermal store temps  (Read 4112 times)
ericw
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« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2008, 05:41:43 PM »

If you are content to work in Gates Land the the DS9490-R USB adaptor (www.homechip.com is an alternative UK based supplier) together with the free LogTemp program (www.mrsoft.fi) works reasonably well for plotting the data produced by 1 wire devices.
Unfortunately all the temperature graphs are the same colour, but you can save the data to CSV, SQL or several other formats, and do your own thing if you feel so minded.
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djh
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« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2008, 09:18:21 PM »

The DS9490R-A from http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23 seems to work for me.

Looks good to me. I've just ordered one and some temp sensors from homechip. Thanks wyleu and eric  Smiley

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It has the shottky ( unpleasant man by most accounts, could someone tell me why that particular type of device is particularly applicable) diodes

Dunno, do they clamp spikes? I can't see speed being important.

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I use owfs to link it all together. It's linux based and does wonderful things ( except respond to select calls Sad

Excellent. I normally run Suse so I'm sure it will work. Can it handle poll if it doesn't do select?

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From the data I've collected I'd say tank temperature fall off is observable by the kinks in the graph.

I'll let you know how kinky my tank is shortly  Grin
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Cheers, Dave
wyleu
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« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2008, 10:03:27 PM »

owfs allows the ow network to be viewed as a file system, althou' you don't have to do it that way if you don't want to. I was hoping it would respond to asynchronous select behavior like twisted but they say no, althou' I've had chats with a fella that has certainly linked one-wire and twisted so it can be done.

owfs is a lovely piece of code, and runs on some fairly small linux bit's and pieces plus has owpython so I'm happy ( I'm not a language zeolot ( not half Smiley , I just decided to stop learning other languages, cos all I ever seemed to want is some feature of one language in another)

The temperature drop on the old hot water tank was quite considerable and convinced me that if you can get all the heat into one tank rather than juggling between a couple, especially if thee insulation is a bit 80's on one of them.

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wookey
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WWW
« Reply #18 on: May 01, 2008, 12:04:10 AM »

I've been playing this game too. Various useful items of commercially available kit have already been mentioned. Here's another source of good-value stuff:
http://www.welserver.com/cgi-bin/setup/profile.cgi
(but the man hates Free Software with an American passion, I found) - pity - his kit is good, and he's the cheapest source of assembled temp sensors I've found.

I, of course, am making life hard for myself and making my own device (because I want to use I2C, not USB, on an embedded linux box). It currently looks like this:

and the I2C-8-channel 1-wire chip is detected but I haven't had any actual temp info out of it yet. Now that I'm half-way into installing some solar there is some presssure on to get this working as it's the only control mechanism.

Wyleu - what's wrong with RJ45/RJ10/11/12 as 1-wire connectors? It does seem a rather bulky standard, especially at the RJ45 size, but connectors and cable are cheap, and latching, so seem as good as any. It does seem a bit comedy to have a '1-wire' bus and then use 8-way cable to wire it, just because it's cheap, but this does provide a way to supply 24V or 12V for control purposes, which is quite handy in practice. It seemed to me to be easier to follow this (very vague) standard than make up something else.


* IMG_2521_thumb.JPG (25.68 KB, 320x240 - viewed 294 times.)
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Wookey
Paulh_Boats
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« Reply #19 on: May 01, 2008, 08:21:58 AM »

If you look at the graphs overnight you'll see that the top temperature is dropping by 0.5C per hour.  What overnight temperature drops do you guys get on properly lagged tanks and are my losses to be expected on this type of installation?  All this info will be really useful on the new solar install in the new house.

I get a similar temperature drop with our 80s tank, 10mm foam plus jacket. All pipes are super-lagged which helps - I was surprised just how far heat conducts along a pipe!

The best solution for insulation is Ivan's; build a ply/hardboard box around the tank and pour in loose fill insulation (Vermiculite or similar). I would then seal the top with 4in of solid insulation.

-Paul
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Ivan
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« Reply #20 on: May 01, 2008, 07:16:47 PM »

Paul,

Did you insulate your vent pipe all the way to the top of the header tank? I found this made a big improvement, especially in the winter
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Paulh_Boats
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« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2008, 11:28:44 PM »

Paul,

Did you insulate your vent pipe all the way to the top of the header tank? I found this made a big improvement, especially in the winter

Not quite. There is some thin old stuff ...been meaning to replace it. 
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