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Adam
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« Reply #30 on: November 30, 2008, 10:33:54 PM » |
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Well done!!!  Very impressed, what generators are you using? |
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Ivan
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« Reply #31 on: November 30, 2008, 11:40:03 PM » |
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Nice one Guy. Make sure you've got those heaters going 24/7 with any excess electricity - should make your front room warmer and less smokey.
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guydewdney
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« Reply #32 on: December 01, 2008, 12:10:52 AM » |
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renewable components's 2.2kw PMAs - running at 1.5kw so as not to over heat on long runs buy 4 - get them for 350 quid each  I just turned the water off (20o+ yards away) - so wheel will be slowing down - Ill lose connection in a bi..........  edit - voltage drops to 45ish volts before the battery icon appears / dissapears on my fujitsu / siemens laptop.....  |
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« Last Edit: December 01, 2008, 12:16:24 AM by guydewdney »
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Adam
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« Reply #33 on: December 01, 2008, 06:48:28 AM » |
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renewable components's 2.2kw PMAs Thought i recognised them Do they have an internal temprature probe, i think the newer Miniwind turbines do, you could use this to monitor the windings temp? |
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Billy
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« Reply #34 on: December 01, 2008, 07:56:24 AM » |
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Good job you don't have to stand at the gate (sluice) and manually keep it @50  up a bit, down a bit, yep, no, down....  |
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Navitron 24vx300watt windy thing, 20x47mm toobs,24v Rolls @458ah C5, Victron MultiPlus 3kw inverter/charger, WBS with boiler.
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guydewdney
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« Reply #35 on: December 01, 2008, 09:19:36 AM » |
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yes - they have the sensors - not sure how Im going to use them - or even if I will. I have a couple of PID temp sensor relays from fleabay/china that Im using for monitoring the heat banks for my wood burner, I could use the same things - if they overheat - I guess disconnect them? whats over temp though? The test last night was running for several hours at a constant 150volts (about 150rpm) in star wired, with 500w per phase (at 230v - so more like 300w) and the outsides were completely cold. I have a couple of laser thermometers I could check it with.
sluice control - We have decided to control the 'last' sluice with a remote low voltage motor / belt / gear drive of some sort. I wonder what would be the most resistant to twigs / leaves / muck? V belts are tolerant....
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northern installer
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« Reply #36 on: December 01, 2008, 09:42:50 AM » |
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Sluice control to major Tom ............................(apologies to d.bowie)
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"government scrappage scheme still available on Tardis trade ins (dont ask how we get around the deadline...)"
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Bill H
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« Reply #37 on: December 01, 2008, 11:37:20 AM » |
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The sweet taste of success ! Well done sir ! Bill |
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The only safe place for a fusion reactor is 93 million miles away.
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guydewdney
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« Reply #38 on: January 20, 2009, 09:33:45 PM » |
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Bit of a catastrophe.... The new outer bearing siezed and has truely and utterly 'made love to' the shaft.  Pic to follow. New bearing needed - 350 quid+ ar$e But - I have picked up the new generator head (50hp, 1000 rpm, 300v DC) and gearbox (30kw rated, 9.6:1, helical gears, so nice n quiet). But - the replacement sleeve is 300 to 500 quid. Glue to hold it on - 100. Bearing - 600. Stonemason - cant find one etc etc |
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2009, 12:00:34 AM by guydewdney »
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guydewdney
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« Reply #39 on: January 29, 2009, 11:51:02 PM » |
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the shaft looked like this when we got here
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guydewdney
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« Reply #40 on: January 29, 2009, 11:52:14 PM » |
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then this - cleaned up a bit. We (SKF tech dude and I) calculated that we will lose 1.1 to 1.2kw PER bearing if left in phozzy bronze. Hence the hot bearing in Ivans piccies of hot things....
The blob in the middle is the (inner - in good nick, well lubricated) plain brass/bronze bearing. The shaft goes left / right, with the massive sprocket to the left, the wall to the right.
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« Last Edit: January 29, 2009, 11:56:02 PM by guydewdney »
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knighty
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« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2009, 06:15:41 PM » |
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hi, have you bought the new bearing yet ?
I ask... because if you pick yourself up a new bearing housing at the same time it will be MUCH cheaper!! might raise/lower the wheel up a few mm.. but I'm guessing this won't be such a big deal ?
I've got some pre-war machines at work and I've swapped out all the bushes + housings (like yours) to bearings and they last forever (as long as you grease them once in a while).... one machine (a tripe washer) has 1ton of ton of tripes in 300gal of water spinning at at 60revs... it spins at just the right speed so as the tripes spin they get to about the top of the drum and fall down to the bottom, instead of just spinning around the putside... so it's pretty high impact stuff... the bearing on there is only about an inch wide and maybe an inch and a half thick... I think the bearing and housing together were about £80 a time from BSL... they're everywhere... the the guys at our local ones are really helpful and really know there stuff !
I'd say if the bearing I have can take the abuse it gets... you'd be able to get something similar for your water wheel.. which is pretty low impact etc... (p.s. do you definitely need a roller bearing and not a ball bearing ?)
(p.p.s sorry if it's too late and you've already thought/discounted this idea... I'm new here!)
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guydewdney
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« Reply #42 on: February 14, 2009, 06:37:27 PM » |
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Thanks Knighty - I have bought the bearing - and housing, seals, covers, the lot from Eriks. 700 quid all in. The new housing is more than a few mm - its more like a couple of inches - and Im trying to get this accurate to 0.5 degrees - as thats the spec of the bearing and seal. Seal - double lip seal - with added grease nipple inside the two seals. New sleeve, in stainless steel - (450 quid - and that was the cash price... ) slipped (ha - heated to within an inch of its life with two blowtorches, and a car jack to push |
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guydewdney
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« Reply #43 on: February 14, 2009, 06:39:56 PM » |
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shiny bit
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guydewdney
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« Reply #44 on: February 14, 2009, 06:41:27 PM » |
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goopy stuff
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