Edit by Antman - trying to find out if Geoff still has the pictures for this thread. If so we'll append them again.Hi
some time ago there was a request from a number of forum users for some step by step pictures of a solar panel installation.
As with all things there are a number of ways of doing this task and I am not suggesting that what is depicted here should be adopted by all.
This is just the method I use, for one man installation. If there are 2 people then lifting / positioning will be easier!
Picture 1 - manifold box contents.
Everything you need is in this box - except for the stainless straps and nuts / bolts for fixing the frame to the roof. These are an option from Ivan.
I would recommend using these as the straps are considerably thinner than the standard builders straps available and therefore will bend much more easily.
In the box you get
The manifold
Enough stainless jubillee clips - in fact there is usually at least 1 spare.
Rubber cups for the bottom of the tubes.
Tube of thermal silicon paste (for application to the manifold end of the heat pipe - and sensors)
Reflectors - to sit behind and between the tubes
Stainless clips and nuts / bolts - to fix the reflectors in place (NOTE these have been redesigned from the method shown in the instruction manual on the Navitron website)
I usually attach the upper straps whilst the frame is on the ground.
I prefer to leave the lowers until I have the frame in place - its more fiddly but there are less bits of steel strap flapping around when you lift the frame to the roof.
NOTE: the head of the bolt is uppermost.
Also note the redesigned mountings for the manifold (far left of picture). On a 20 tube manifold there are 4 captive bolts that locate the manifold through these raised pressings in the frame uprights. 6 on a 30 tube.
The lower horizontal rail is also bolted to the uprights at this stage.
Do not overtighten these bolts as this will allow some movement between the upright and the horizontal rails. The uprights do not always sit flat on roof tiles (especially the redland style that have grooves up and down them - as opposed the flat concrete tiles on this example)
I prefer to push the tile above the batten that I intend to use as a fixing upwards - using a wooden block and a lump hammer, tapping gently.
A lump hammer can apply a larger mass of pressure with little swing as opposed to a standard hammer hit harder.
On the roof shown here the tiles are held in place with special aluminium fixings rather than nailed through the tile as with other types of concrete tile and slate.
For tiles that are nailed the nail can the removed using a "slate ripper" or by hitting an old chisel up under the bottom of the tile immediately above to chop off the head of the nail. The tile can then be lifted free and the remainder of the nail removed.
NOTE this method only works where tiles are hung on battens. If you are fitting to a slate roof you will have to feel for the strap from the inside.
Other types of roof design may need other approaches.
Note also the twine used to hold the frame in place whilst the other work takes place.
I use the sharp end of the strap to puncture the felt, these then ensures that the smallest possible cut is made in the felt.
Once the top straps are secured I remove the complete tile where the lower strap is to be fixed.
I affix the strap (fiddly I know !) - but have it pointing DOWNWARDS from the frame.
I then loop it back up and over the batten.
Leaving sufficient of the strap to fit around the bottom of the tile.
I feel this adds a little more stability to the bottom of the frame.
The tiles on this roof are laid in a staggered pattern with each tile having half a tile overlapped above it. This makes for a very strong roof with each tile giving strength and wind resistance to each other.
There is a possibility that in high wind situations in exposed places the bottom of the frame could lift - the reflectors act like sails.
This method will help to reduce this possibility.
Lower strap with tile replaced.
Once the frame is securely fixed in place on the inside of the roof. - I use screws and washers.
The manifold is lifted into place.
I find this easier than trying to lift frame and manifold in together.
On a 20 tube system this is possible single handidly. On a 30 tube system you need an assistant.
Drop the manifold into the top rail tags (having removed the bolts first!).
It will not move, and then re-fit bolts.
Fit plumbing to manifold outlets so that position of holes in tiles can be calculated.
You can see that I have used a straight 22 x 15 reducer and the a 15mm elbow.
This will allow me to avoid roof joists below by varying the length of the 15mm tubing.
On this installation I cut back the 22mm manifold pipe so as to reduce the overall length.
I use an 18mm diamond dust tipped core bit to drill holes - its just my preference.
To make sure it starts correctly I use a template and begin with that in place (in this instance I stood on it to make sure it didnt move)
Run the drill at high speed and introduce the core bit through the template.
After a minute or so of contact with the tile a groove will have been made.
Remove the template and drill at a slower speed - with no more than light pressure.
Lubricate with water often - this will cool the bit and flush away dust.
Once the pipework has been tightened - the roof needs to be made water tight.
As suggested elswehere I push silicon sealant into the gap between pipe and the tile. Make sure it goes all the way down to the bottom of the hole.
As an additional measure I like to cover the area with piece of flashing repair tape. This has a grey foil outer layer and a mastic backing.
Cut a piece about 4" square
Make an indent in the middle with the end of a piece of 15mm pipe.
Using scissors cut from an edge and remove the pipe indented piece of tape.
Remove the backing and place over the pipe and press down onto the tile - making sure all dust and rubbish is removed first, and the area is dry.
Make sure the cut is on the lower side of the pipe.
Press the tape into place (i use the handle of a large screwdriver)
On cold days it is acceptable to warm the tape briefly (and i mean briefly) with a blowlamp.
Thats it job done!
I hope these pictures have been useful.
As I said at the top of this, these are my methods. If you wish to do it any different then feel free. As long as what you propose is safe, watertight and does not damage your roof then it will probably be ok.
I hope to follow this item up with other photographs as the install progresses
