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Author Topic: Homebrew copper crimp connections  (Read 3438 times)
guydewdney
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« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2008, 08:03:36 PM »

I agree..... (bit aol that isnt it?)

You can also buy inline waterproof epoxy filled connectors, where each cable is connected directly to the next using a bolt, not a crimp.

The ideal is to place both conductors on top of each other, and squash them together. Then the squashing item (crimp / bolt) doesnt conduct electricity. This isnt always do-able though. In the same idea as a 'chocolate block' type connector - place BOTH conductors through BOTH clamp bolts from BOTH ends - so the wires are jammed on top of each other.
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wookey
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« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2008, 01:06:05 AM »

I agree scotchloks are pretty horrid, but what is the right answer for vehicle wiring where you want to splice a cable into an existing one? Soldering is not good in cars IME as it provides a stiff place for wires to fatigue at - not much better than scotchloks fo rlong-term reliability. Are the glue-filled scothloks any good - they look plausible; and something very similar is used for external phone wire connections then left for years on a pole.
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camillitech
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« Reply #17 on: June 12, 2008, 06:14:42 AM »

Scotchloks are fine in cars at low currents/voltages out of the weather on multi stranded automotive wiring which as what they are designed for. In fact under these conditions I can't recall ever having one fail, used outside on a car in a boat or on single strand twin and earth they are a disaster but that's not what they're for.

Cheers, Paul

PS I've always fought shy of buying a proper crimp tool at damn near £100 but there's a company in Leeds selling them for £55. I saw them in an advert in one of those magazines for sad people ( like me ) with Land Rovers Roll Eyes of course I can't find it now at 6:00am but I will later as at that price I think they're worth having.
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