pcolbeck
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Posts: 9
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« Reply #30 on: March 14, 2009, 01:36:11 PM » |
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Does the ventilation thing for log burners still apply if you have a seperate air intake under the floor plumbed into the log burner ?
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martin W
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« Reply #31 on: March 14, 2009, 07:46:15 PM » |
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I don't really know on that one? I would think not as you are supplying the air needed for combustion direct. Best would be to contact the WBS manufacture if it is designed to have its own air supply.
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011  (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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martin W
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« Reply #32 on: June 02, 2009, 02:26:02 PM » |
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Just an update and a question....
Just had the cavities filled with glued polystyrene balls (waited 3 months or so for it to happen - long story). Installers were nice clean, pleasant, organised, efficient and fairly quick (about 2 1/2 hours (3 bed semi)- but seemed to be doing all the right things filling all the holes up with balls and checking amount machine put in etc). Put nice new vent in conservatory - ready for WBS. All in all pleasantly surprised with clean and efficient install.
Now the question... The have sealled up the external air bricks with silicone sealant which seems to be the norm procedure. But I sort of think that having the bottom external vents open would allow any penetrating damp (water) to trickle down the gaps between the balls and then flow out. I sort of thought the whole idea of the balls was to allow 'some' air circulation of the cavity and hence stave off penetrating damp.
Should I unblock these few external vents for this reason?
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« Last Edit: June 02, 2009, 02:29:15 PM by martin W »
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011 (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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dhaslam
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« Reply #33 on: June 02, 2009, 03:19:48 PM » |
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Does the ventilation thing for log burners still apply if you have a seperate air intake under the floor plumbed into the log burner ?
I suppose there are two reasons for ventilation. The first one is the air supply for the stove which doesn't have to be much because air intake is controlled. The second reason is to ventilate the room because there will be some gas leaks from the stove. Cast iron stoves in particular depend on joins between the parts being well sealed and they can open a little in time. The important thing is to have a carbon monoxide detector. |
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desperate
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« Reply #34 on: June 02, 2009, 08:47:20 PM » |
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Hi martin w Did these guys seal up the airbricks that vent the underfloor void? if so that dont sound right to me, as far as I know all air bricks should be ducted through the cavity and not connect with it in any way, weep holes drain the cavity, these should be situated above any position where the cavity has been closed, above doors and windows etc. If you have not got any underfloor ventilation I should find out why they were sealed and smartish too.
CU
Desperate
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martin W
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« Reply #35 on: June 03, 2009, 06:07:38 AM » |
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Hi Desperate,
as far as I can work out these air bricks that have been sealed up seem to be only in the external leaf, this is why I assumed they were for ventilation of the cavity, and or to let water out. My through ventilatators (for the house are all sleeved), so not problems there, and I have solid floors so no void to worry about.
I can understand sealing up air bricks (not through ventilators) in the top part of the cavity (if any) that are not required, but I just assume that bottom ones would be left open to allow water out
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011 (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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Richard Owen
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« Reply #36 on: June 03, 2009, 07:06:20 AM » |
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If you unplug them, you might well let the beads out as well.
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44 Yingli 230Wp panels feeding into 2x Solar Edge SE5000 inverters .20x 58mm SE, 20x 58mm SW, Solar Thermal feeding 320l thermal store. 10kW heat pump. 300W of Hydro Power . |
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martin W
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« Reply #37 on: June 04, 2009, 05:47:06 AM » |
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If you unplug them, you might well let the beads out as well.
Nope, they are the glued variety Richard. Now that the glue is set I should be able to remove a window frame and the insulation 'should' all stay in place. I am worried that 'if, when' I have penetrating moisture through the wall of the cavity, it won't have any way of getting back out as all the holes in the bottom are sealled. |
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011 (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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Richard Owen
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« Reply #38 on: June 04, 2009, 07:09:38 AM » |
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I understand your worry Martin, but I've seen two occasions (one of them mine) where supposedly glued beads ran freely from holes made in walls.
Be careful!
And check your warranty.
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44 Yingli 230Wp panels feeding into 2x Solar Edge SE5000 inverters .20x 58mm SE, 20x 58mm SW, Solar Thermal feeding 320l thermal store. 10kW heat pump. 300W of Hydro Power . |
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desperate
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« Reply #39 on: June 07, 2009, 08:27:02 PM » |
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Hi martin w
Early cavity construction sometimes were ventilated but I dont think it has been done for about 25-30 years now. In fact modern specs call for robust construction methods to make buildings as air tight as possible, including the cavity, but having controllable ventilation when needed. Having said all that, no building is going to be absolutely air tight so as long as you dont have water puoring into the cavity, or continuous condensation, what little moisture find its way in will, soon enough escape, so if those airbrick do only communicate with the cavity you have no problem.
Desperate
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