Double Glazing in Wood Frames

[Ivan]

I'm planning to replace a rather large metal-framed single glazed window with a custom wood-framed triple-glazed unit. I'm also planning to thermal-break the window, but that will be done retrospectively, as you can't teach an old dog (joiner) new tricks (thermal-break frames) - or we might even make up the frame ourselves.

I've suffered a number of failed double-glazed units in wood frames, and I guessed there's more to it than meets the eye, so I've had a quick look on the internet and found the following useful references:

http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/misty-wood.htm

http://www.redkite-glass.co.uk/glazingrec.htm#fig%201

[The Slow Old Man]

Hi Ivan
Having been a double glazing installer in another life (seems like it was another life)

You can split and clean broken down units and reseal them.

In the old days all units came with foil tape around the edges to prevent any water being in constant contact with the gunk sealing the unit(and yes that was the technical term the unit manufactures used way back then) .
Then came automated machines that would cut the glass with minimum wastage and seal the with a constant hot extrusion method. So no more glazing bars filled with silica beads to absorbe moisture.

Its an impressive bit of kit to watch but with out the foil tape..........

So if i was putting units in to wood i would want a gap below the unit so i will not be sat in a pool of water and i would tape the edges of of the units. Where you would get the foil tape these days i have no idea but it will be out there somewhere.

Brian

[Ivan]

From the links above, it seems that a 'drained' design is a good idea. However, I'm not sure exactly what a drainage system looks like - is it routed channels in the bottom section of wood, or does it consist of raising the DG unit by the specified 3mm, and ensuring that there is a gap underneath, where water can accumulate and drain out of gaps in the silicone at intervals.....but then will that support the 70kg triple glazed unit that I have planned?

[The Slow Old Man]

In principal you would want the same as in a Upvc window so yes routed channels and drainage holes, but i practice i have never seen this in a wood frame. I have seen gasket galzing for wood however.

Brian

[tony.]

ivan, you want the glass to stand off the wooden frame, to allow for movement of the timber etc.

scewfix sell plastic spacers designed for packing door frames that can  be cut to width to suit the size of glass.

remember to use silicone suitable for glazing!

tony

[Billy]

Ivan,

I don't like having drainage channels in wood with the chance of rot setting in.  Try this link.  I find it works well and no problems (yet).

www.arbo.co.uk/docstore/Arboseal - tech.pdf


 

[Talisker]

I can recommend the Green Building Store. Their products are top notch and their Ecoplus windows & doors are an excellent specification.  They feature drained and ventilated rebates.  They worked alongside our architect to build us our 'eco' conservatory / living room.  The doors and windows have only been installed a couple of years, but we expect them to give us a lifetime of use.   In our experience they are very nice to deal with.  Their .pdf brochure (available for download) gives all the details.

[Richard Owen]

Where you would get the foil tape these days i have no idea but it will be out there somewhere.

Hi Ivan,

Don't know if you fancy another trip down the valley, but I bought a job lot of 50mm aluminium tape off Ebay for sealing around the roof insulation. Only got about 20 rolls left. If you fancy a couple of rolls, either for sealing the insulation boards or protecting the edges of your glazing, let me know.

Richard

P.S. perhaps we can trade the tape against some discount on the turbine.

[rhys]

Ivan
Yes go for a drained and vented method of glazing. Do not try and use solid bed glazing methods. They may work but if any moisure gets in or condenses in,  it cant get out and then the glazing fails.
I've just installed 2 Green Building Store triple glazed windows - good value I think.
The internal double glazed windows were made on site here with all the correct glazing tapes and silicone seals.
BUT with a triple glazed external window I would always go these days, for a factory finished, and factory glazed window.
It really not more expensive than trying to do it "on site".

[djh]

Ivan, When people on the greenbuilding forum start talking about renewables, I suggest they come here. You're talking about green building ....   There are several people on the greenbuilding forum who make wooden windows and extensive discussions of triple-glazing etc.

[peater]

Hi
I've replaced over 80 double glazed units in wooden frames using the vent and drain system. I did a small write on this some 3 years ago. To date no units have suffered any issues.  look here   http://www.double-glazing-window.com/post.php?cat=2&fid=1&pid=936&page=1

I had a reply from one of the industry's leading expert/consultant as a great study subject.

May be worth including within this forum with photo's if there is a need. People give me a yell if want it!

The important issue is the maintainence of the woodwork, especially the bottom glazing bar!   . This is the time of year where there is a lot of rainfall followed by the intense heat of the sun, this causes the internel woodwork to 'gas' inward towards your double glazing units.
Cheers
Peater   

[Ivan]

Thanks for the comments. I'm looking for a DIY guide - something easy to understand, ideally with some photos, as I'd like to see what the various ventilation holes/channels look like. Also, recommendations for sealing products.  If you can post including photos, that would be fantastic

I tend to use Sadolin or similar on my wooden windows - varnish doesn't last 5minutes, and needs to be painstakingly rubbed down before recoating. Is Sadolin a good or bad idea?

I'm planning a very large window - which is going to cost £1500, together with a heavy, large area of glass, which I'd like to be triple-glazed. I'm also planning to replace some old 6mm double-glazed units - some of which have blown - with triple-glazed units (and maybe new frames) - I want to make sure I get it right!

[2807]

I tend to use Sadolin or similar on my wooden windows

The best woodcare products I have ever used are made by Sikkens - for windows, a basecoat of Cetol HLS http://tinyurl.com/q54e8v followed by a couple of coats of Cetol Filter 7 http://tinyurl.com/rctcx8

Expensive, but you only have to do the job once, - well - 5 years and counting at the moment - here in SW France minus 10 in winter & plus 35 in summer.

I used Ronseal it lasted 2 years, then cuprinol, again 2 years.  The Sikkens may be (at least) twice the price, but I have better things to do than paint windows & shutters.

[AlanM]

Another good paint to look at is Jotun Optimal, lifespan of 10 years, from memory

[rhys]

You could give Hodgson Sealants a call or Reddiseals
http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/downloads/glazing-system/06_D4_System.pdf