Double Glazing in Wood Frames

[djh]

Thanks for the comments. I'm looking for a DIY guide - something easy to understand, ideally with some photos, as I'd like to see what the various ventilation holes/channels look like. Also, recommendations for sealing products.  If you can post including photos, that would be fantastic

There are CAD diagrams of suitable sections on the web somewhere. Sorry, I can't remember where but I probably saw the links on the greenbuilding forum! swallow your pride and go look ... especially given how much you're planning to invest.

I'm planning a very large window - which is going to cost £1500, together with a heavy, large area of glass, which I'd like to be triple-glazed. I'm also planning to replace some old 6mm double-glazed units - some of which have blown - with triple-glazed units (and maybe new frames) - I want to make sure I get it right!

I intend to build a Passivhaus and I believe I will need triple glazing as a result but be aware that there are lively discussions about whether triple glazing is necessary or desirable in the UK climate even in a house insulated to the passivhaus standard. You haven't told us anything about your windows - orientation, shading, exposure, interior temperature etc - so there's no way to tell whether triple glazing is a good idea. Nor have you suggested the Ug, Uw or g values you want to achieve.

In addition to the above factors, you haven't told us what wood you intend to make the frames from, so there's no way to suggest what if any treatments are appropriate! Not that I have a problem with any of the names I've seen, but I'm no expert.

[KLD]

Ivan, Exitex make seals and glazing accessories. Have a look at their Joinery brochure for pictures. http://www.exitex.co.uk/Joinery/joinery1.aspx

Klaus

[Ivan]

2807,

Yes, Sikkens was the name that eluded me - that's what I've been using over the last few years, and yes, I find it lasts 5yrs+. Best stuff ever, and better than sadolin. My query though is whether it water-seals the timber. I imagine the water is more likely to soak into a sikkens-treated window - it seems more like a wood-preserver/stain than a protective coating.

djh,
I've got nothing against the Green Building Forum - it's an excellent forum and I know Keith who set it up. In fact, I've been reading through the Green Building Bible recently as they've got some useful info there. My interest is bringing my house up to a high standard, rather than starting from scratch. I'm particularly interested in making my house more airtight which is as important as insulation, once the insulation is up to a good standard. The main problem I've got, is that the discussion gets very technical, and with differences of opinnion I end up more confused than before I started (I'm sure visitors to our forum have the same feeling when reading some of our threads).

My house faces 120degrees (slightly south of East) and 300degrees (slightly north of West) and all windows are on those elevations. The main one I want to replace is single-glazed, and has secondary glazing. I'd like to replace it with triple-glazing, partly because I like the novelty, partly because I feel there is a significant improvement over double-glazing (although admittedly not much), partly because the window is enormous, and partly because my local glass-maker can make them up very cheaply. I've planned to make a frame with a thermal break - similar to pictures in a brochure that Wookey kindly posted.

The window will be in dark hardwood to match the other windows (iroko)

[Billy]

Hi Ivan,

We use the Sikkens CETOL stuff on wooden masts these days instead of varnish.  I believe it is micro-porous but I wouldn't like to use it in an area that is poorly ventilated and possibly wet.

I don't know how long they have been using ventilated edges on wooden frames.  Quite a long time in UPVC.  All the joints in the frame should be of a type to avoid moisture penetration and entrapment.  Not many joiners know how to make such things because those type of joints are specific to boat work.

 All the DG windows we fit in wooden frames on boats are mastic filled in an aluminium sub frame.  Never had one go yet in 7 years.  Timber is treated with epoxy in the way of the rebates whether they are varnished or painted or Sikkensed.   

[2807]

2807,

Yes, Sikkens was the name that eluded me - that's what I've been using over the last few years, and yes, I find it lasts 5yrs+. Best stuff ever, and better than sadolin. My query though is whether it water-seals the timber. I imagine the water is more likely to soak into a sikkens-treated window - it seems more like a wood-preserver/stain than a protective coating.

My front door is a big double door made in a traditional charentaise style - probably over 100 years old.  Before I used the sikkens to paint it, water used to come right through my front door when we had driving rain from the south (heavy thunderstorms in SW France).

Since using the sikkens the hallway floor has remained dry, it says that it is micropourus, but it seems to form a "film" which deflects the rain whilst allowing the door to breathe.

Given that the worst of the thunderstorms are in the summer, I assume the door dries out fairly quickly with the heat of the sun.

[rhys]

Ivan, Exitex make seals and glazing accessories. Have a look at their Joinery brochure for pictures. http://www.exitex.co.uk/Joinery/joinery1.aspx

Klaus

Excellent link - exactly the kind of products that should be used.

[wookey]

Thanks for the comments. I'm looking for a DIY guide - something easy to understand, ideally with some photos, as I'd like to see what the various ventilation holes/channels look like.

You were nearly there with your first link Ivan. This is a pretty good idiots guide:
http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/wood_drainage_files/wooden_windows_drainage_new.pdf
focussed on retrofitting DG into existing frames but tells you everything you need to know about what the drainage looks like. For a new frame all the shiny stuff in the exitex catalogue is almost certainly a better (if more expensive) plan.