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charlieb
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« on: May 19, 2009, 03:16:28 PM » |
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Sorry, not particularly green question. I had a specialist survey done for my flat when I bought it at Christmas, which suggested several lintel replacements. I'm finally getting round to thinking about getting the work done, and am wondering various things: - Do lintels have to be replaced by super-qualified expensive builders? (quote is about #1500 a lintel, admittedly for an 1820s tenement in pretty shoddy condition)
- Is there any environmental (or otherwise) benefit in insisting on a wooden (Oak I guess) lintel, instead of the concrete or steel one they're suggesting. Wood's been in there for getting on 200 years after all, so I'm inclined to replace it, but doesn't seem a standard option.
- Anyone know of a good timber specialist in Edinburgh to get a second opinion?[/i]
Any thoughts much appreciated. Thanks Charlie
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desperate
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2009, 08:19:57 PM » |
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I tried to get an Engineer to spec a timber lintol for a job in an old house, no one would even consider it, we ended up faking a USC with oak cladding, silly thing was, like you we removed an oak beam that had been in situ for about 40 years with no sign of distress.
Desperate
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guydewdney
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2009, 09:40:11 PM » |
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to replace lintel:- drill several holes in concrete / brick just above existing lintel. Install either loads of 'rawl bolts' or preferably steel pins / studding right through wall. bolt on two beams either side of doorway, hold up those beams with acro jacks or similar hefty supports remove lintel replace lintel remove gumph above. Personally, I'd replace with green oak, the same size as you removed, with no sapwood or heartwood - It will be easily strong enough.
Dont get some overpriced idiot fromt he council to charge you - just go and do it (assuming you are competent...)
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AlanM
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« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2009, 09:52:22 PM » |
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Yes, i agree, use green oak, can put you in contact with someone in jedburgh who mills oak although you could probably source closer to edinburgh. A guide price for oak should be in the order of £25 to £30 per cubic foot. Do not use any portland cement to bed the oak or stone above, use lime mortar.
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desperate
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2009, 10:07:54 PM » |
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to replace lintel:- drill several holes in concrete / brick just above existing lintel. Install either loads of 'rawl bolts' or preferably steel pins / studding right through wall. bolt on two beams either side of doorway, hold up those beams with acro jacks or similar hefty supports remove lintel replace lintel remove gumph above. Personally, I'd replace with green oak, the same size as you removed, with no sapwood or heartwood - It will be easily strong enough.
Dont get some overpriced idiot fromt he council to charge you - just go and do it (assuming you are competent...)
I,ve never used the stuff myself, but Engineers I spoke to were worried about the movement and deflection as the timber dried out? "just go and do it" ;)assuming you dont want to sell or insure the building. Desperate
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guydewdney
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« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2009, 10:16:50 PM » |
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fine - use 1/2 dry oak. A poxy bit of oak isnt going to move the house.
Why should it prevent you selling the house? Or insuring it? You are allowed to fix your own bloomin house! Where does the namby pamby state expect you not to fix your home? Nope - no longer allowed to put a bit of plaster in a hole? Sandpaper a rough spot?
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desperate
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2009, 10:20:40 PM » |
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No, but structural stuff may well be found in Solicitors searches, and then propective buyer/insurer loses interest.
Desp
Ps Oak wont do the moving but gravity might
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2009, 10:22:26 PM by desperate »
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heatherw
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« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2009, 10:22:20 PM » |
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to replace lintel:- drill several holes in concrete / brick just above existing lintel. Install either loads of 'rawl bolts' or preferably steel pins / studding right through wall. bolt on two beams either side of doorway, hold up those beams with acro jacks or similar hefty supports remove lintel replace lintel remove gumph above. Personally, I'd replace with green oak, the same size as you removed, with no sapwood or heartwood - It will be easily strong enough.
Dont get some overpriced idiot fromt he council to charge you - just go and do it (assuming you are competent...)
I,ve never used the stuff myself, but Engineers I spoke to were worried about the movement and deflection as the timber dried out? "just go and do it" ;)assuming you dont want to sell or insure the building. Desperate  Presuming you mean green oak, that's what happened here. Hasn't falllen down yet, though.
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desperate
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« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2009, 10:25:01 PM » |
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I,ll get me ladder
Desp
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wrigpm
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Posts: 71
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« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2009, 10:29:28 PM » |
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Technically, because this is structural, it needs building regs approval - this can be done under a 'building notice'. You will probably struggle to get any form of wood approved unless you have structural calcs. The best bet would be to use a proprietary lintel from a builders merchant and then clad it in Oak - the best of both worlds! You can hire/buy acro's that have special plates on them that fit in the mortar joints (that you have previously raked out). Perfect example of how to add a lintel here:- http://www.brickshore.co.uk/wall%20support/double-brickshore.phpHTH Paul
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desperate
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« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2009, 10:35:09 PM » |
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These gizmos are great if the motar is sound above the opening and you have enough room to manouvre the beam between the acrows.
Desp
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MR GUS
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« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2009, 10:57:18 PM » |
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Thats what we used over our fireplace recently, then after that to open up a doorway, good stuff!
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, & a tiny pen15 ..if we're comparing solar set ups!
Noli Timere Messorem
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AlanM
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« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2009, 11:10:10 PM » |
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The problem is not with green oak, its with engineers who do not understand timber. Large dimensioned oak will not distort, it will have drying cracks but these do not decrease its strength. however, thin oak (less than 2") used to clad an rsj or prestressed concrete will dry and potentially distort. Personally, I'd replace with green oak, the same size as you removed, with no sapwood or heartwood - It will be easily strong enough. No sapwood or heartwood? whats left ? 
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2009, 11:12:21 PM by AlanM »
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guydewdney
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« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2009, 11:23:01 PM » |
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doing a green oak building Im learning a lot:- middle bit (heart) is cr@p for beams - the middle bit. O shaped rings (concentric, like a RAF roundel) The very outside, just under the bark, is a very different colour to the main bit - this is sap wood, and is soft as poo. The next layer ))))) shaped - best bit. If a bit of oak (or whatever) was there for 200 years, why do you need regs to replace like with like? Pointless job making rubbish for idiots. Sure - replace with pine, and your house will fall down - but its your house (not mine  )
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