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XONE
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« on: May 30, 2009, 11:47:38 AM » |
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Best reccommended way to do an East Weast install? I know you can use one pump with a controled valve or use two pumps. Which would be best? Also any one got a decent design for one? I assume if you use the two pump version you use two anti syphon valves and with the control valve you only use one??
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kristen
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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2009, 01:38:49 PM » |
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Pumps more reliable than a electro-mechanical valve, so I hear! Also, there will be an overlap time when both are providing.
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Flamethrower_
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2009, 01:45:59 PM » |
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I used two pumps for my east/west installation and as kristen says this time of year mine both run together from about 10 a.m.till 3 p.m.
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Brandon
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2009, 01:54:54 PM » |
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do qute a lot of e/w, always use two pumps, at navitron price with the valves in, they are the cheapest option too.
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changing the world, one roof at a time ..."We can't be B&Q astroturfers. That's one conspiracy theory too far. You should cut down on the pot." - Wookey |
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rob26440
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2009, 01:57:21 PM » |
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I'm planning to add a S/E panel to my existing S/W panel. I can let you have a PowerPoint diag of the plumbing if you pm me your email address. It uses 2 pumps. Will probably use a Resol ES controller instead of the TDC3 so I don't lose my heat dump which is currently controlled by R2 on the TDC3. Cheaper alternative is to keep the TDC3 with R2 sensing the S/E panel temp and use a surface mounted cylinder stat to trigger the heat dump.
Rob.
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S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
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XONE
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2009, 09:18:41 PM » |
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Thank you. How do you seperate the two loops? I guess they T into one another at the cylinder end but how do you stop them drawing off of each other?
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rob26440
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« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2009, 10:01:21 PM » |
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Yes. There's a T between the panels with the flow down to the top of the solar coil in the cylinder and another T from the bottom of the coil with a pump and an NRV in each leg back up to the return side of each panel. (Plus various other items such as 2 x PRV, 2 x EV, pressure gauge, flow setter, isolation valves and vents. I've just finished simplifying my PowerPoint schematic to remove my second cylinder. (I'm assuming yours is a 1 cylinder setup.) I can send you a copy if you wish.
Rob.
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S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
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martin W
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2009, 06:28:01 AM » |
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Rob,
why the 2x Pressure relief valves and expansion vessels? I would have assumed you could have used one if it was plumbed on on the cold side of the cylinder coil before the pumps but after the NRV's (assuming these are on the incoming (hot) side of the solar coil).
BTW PM sent for the power point file....
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Woodstove Newbie since Feb 2011  (yes it's finally off the pallet) Solar Water Heating since 17th March 2009 Chicken Owner - Self sufficient in chicken c*@p, boy watch those tomatoes grow. Now an allotment wannabie |
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rob26440
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« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2009, 09:17:14 AM » |
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Martin,
Good questions.
Why 2 PRVs and EVs? You could plumb it in with just one but as I already have a system installed, its easier just to add another. Also, with the additional panel, the volume of the 2 cylinder and 2 panel solar pipe work will increase quite a bit. So rather than just fit a larger EV in place of the current one I would prefer to go for a belt and braces setup – especially with the additional NRVs that might restrict the expansion flow if the system does overheat. Plus, I already have the second EV & PRV in stock!
When you see the diagram (which for clarity, I have removed the second cylinder and its associated plumbing), you will note the FBIVs that will allow me to isolate the second panel in case I need to do some maintenance – but still keep the first panel running. So another reason for the second EV & PRV.
Rob.
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S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
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XONE
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« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2009, 10:52:33 AM » |
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Martin,
Good questions.
Why 2 PRVs and EVs? You could plumb it in with just one but as I already have a system installed, its easier just to add another. Also, with the additional panel, the volume of the 2 cylinder and 2 panel solar pipe work will increase quite a bit. So rather than just fit a larger EV in place of the current one I would prefer to go for a belt and braces setup – especially with the additional NRVs that might restrict the expansion flow if the system does overheat. Plus, I already have the second EV & PRV in stock!
When you see the diagram (which for clarity, I have removed the second cylinder and its associated plumbing), you will note the FBIVs that will allow me to isolate the second panel in case I need to do some maintenance – but still keep the first panel running. So another reason for the second EV & PRV.
Rob.
Hi, Yeah I'd like to check out the power point drawing, sadly I don't have power point, is there any other program it'd run on?? What are FBIVS? I've managed to work out the other coded messages!!  |
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stewart
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 88
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« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2009, 10:55:16 AM » |
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i have one pump on an east /west it works fine |
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rob26440
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« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2009, 10:56:03 AM » |
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XONE,
FBIV = Full Bore Isolation Valve
pm me your email address and I'll insert it as a picture in an email.
Rob.
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« Last Edit: May 31, 2009, 10:58:13 AM by rob26440 »
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S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
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rob26440
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« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2009, 10:59:46 AM » |
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Stewart,
Do you have a schematic of your "one pump" layout you can post or email me? Which model of controller and programme are you using?
Thanks,
Rob.
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S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
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EccentricAnomaly
Guest
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« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2009, 06:20:02 PM » |
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Hi, Yeah I'd like to check out the power point drawing, sadly I don't have power point, is there any other program it'd run on??
I think there's a dedicated free PowerPoint viewer for Windows from Microsoft. OpenOffice will also display it on any likely operating system. |
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XONE
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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2009, 06:26:13 PM » |
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Also another question, my roof is more south westerly than east/west, would it be better reccommended to do an east/west install or would it be ok with 20 tubes on the more southerly roof? We don't really get sun in the garden untill about 11am and I don't want to miss out on the morning rays, but saying that there are only 2 of us in the house and we work all day till 5pm and no one would be using the hot water through the day.
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