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Greenbeast
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« Reply #15 on: August 03, 2009, 12:44:27 PM » |
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yeah i'm planning on plenty of glass on the south side
i like the idea of thick floors and cob internal walls What are you thinking about for your floor material?
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daftlad
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« Reply #16 on: August 03, 2009, 01:19:00 PM » |
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Ground floor:- Rammed earth with tiles (insulation underneath) 1st floor:- Cob over riven laths with tiles (I have seen this in France lots) laters
EDIT There is an earthship in Brighton (which is not so far from you). They do tours on Sunday morning which are very good. Just type "earthship brighton" into google.
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« Last Edit: August 03, 2009, 01:35:12 PM by daftlad »
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I WILL KEEP BANGING ON ABOUT MASONRY STOVES
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dhaslam
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« Reply #17 on: August 03, 2009, 02:06:20 PM » |
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yeah i'm planning on plenty of glass on the south side
Don't forget that if you have a large area of south facing glass it will need to be shaded in summer. I notice the Brighton earthship has little or no shading. By shading from midsummer sun there can be window area to, just about, heat the building in winter. Stone of tile floors will absorb heat from a stove to make underfloor heating redundant in that room. I have all travertine tiles. Overnight loss of temperature is only one or two degrees so it the morning the sitting room will be still warm from the stove being lit on the previous evening.
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #18 on: August 03, 2009, 02:12:11 PM » |
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dalftad, good stuff, i'll incorporate those ideas
dhaslam - i've planned an american-style outside covered porch area/deck off the back of the house, so i could install retractable/removable screens off from the roof line downwards
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billi
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« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2009, 03:12:13 PM » |
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wonder whether its worth fitting UFH through out or just in the bathroom (and/or bedrooms?) Sounds a waste to me not to lay the UFH pipes into the foundation/floors let it be concrete  or rammed earth or just stonefill ontop of the insulation Some heating systems like heatpumps and solar thermal work better with low temperature heating ... I somehow have the feeling ,that i will not want to make firewood or buy it for the next decades Billi
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2009, 03:14:38 PM » |
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so you're saying lay UFH throughout.
it does make sense because it will be difficult to retrofit, and it'd be zoned anyway
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billi
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« Reply #21 on: August 03, 2009, 03:47:40 PM » |
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Yes But  there are so many Heating/cooling ideas that can be integrated into a new built house , and these ideas should be married with the house design ! to achieve a balanced climate with less needed "artificial" or active heating I am not saying just lay underfloor heating pipes and thats it , and then get a heat pump My to the house attached poly tunnel (volume about) 50 m3 heats up even in sunny winter Days to 60° ( sure does nothing on dark days ) It already does a lot for our small house , but we have no buffer or a solid floor/wall in the timber cabin where to transfer that free heat  There are so many ideas how to harvest heat cheaply as well as how to store it in the house without work/or buying fuel = luxury Billi
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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kristen
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« Reply #22 on: August 03, 2009, 04:02:38 PM » |
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" Isn't this where a log or pellet batch boiler comes in" Standing-losses are depressing though. So long as the Store is in the CH'd area its not a problem during the Winter, and if the Solar far exceeds the requirements in Summer then "wasting" heat on Standing loses may be acceptable. " i wonder whether its worth fitting UFH through out or just in the bathroom " Resale value better, I guess, if UFH throughout - even if never / rarely needed in practice. Narrows your market if you can only sell to an eco-warrior  If your heating requirement is supremely low then ducted air heating may be better - slightly larger than a MHRV " i like the idea of thick floors and cob internal walls" Our floors are concrete. No creaking boards, almost no sound transmission around the house. Bliss. (Not very Eco though ... and not easy to retro-run cables and pipes) " Don't forget that if you have a large area of south facing glass it will need to be shaded in summer." Will a decent overhang roof do that? Sun at high elevation in Summer hits overhang, low elevation in Winter shins on the glass. I saw some house-makeover program o=r other recently. Hubby had a glass business. The upstairs bathroom had a remote control that cause the glass to turn opaque. That would keep the sun out!
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #23 on: August 03, 2009, 04:40:59 PM » |
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Our floors are concrete. No creaking boards, almost no sound transmission around the house. Bliss. (Not very Eco though ... and not easy to retro-run cables and pipes)
Yeah i don't like the eco credentials of concrete but it does bring me to another point, what do people do for wiring pipework with rammed earth/cob walls? And the misses has just told me she wants to be able hang things on the walls, is that possible, i suspected not, but could be wrong? "Don't forget that if you have a large area of south facing glass it will need to be shaded in summer."
Will a decent overhang roof do that? Sun at high elevation in Summer hits overhang, low elevation in Winter shins on the glass.
Ah, i didn't think about the fact that the sun would be up in the sky  So my covered deck area would actually be blocking out the sun anyway, not good for passive solar gain I saw some house-makeover program o=r other recently. Hubby had a glass business. The upstairs bathroom had a remote control that cause the glass to turn opaque. That would keep the sun out!
yeah i think i saw that, quite cool and very handy, i wonder how expensive?
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kristen
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« Reply #24 on: August 03, 2009, 05:06:43 PM » |
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" i wonder how expensive?" I did a Google. Found DIY forum where they had discussed the exact same episode. Someone said £200 per pane. Someone else said that was too expensive. Surely something wrong there as I didn't think it was expensive! I'm fed up with the curtains / blinds in the loo being closed - all the women-folk seem to things that folk outside can see into a first floor window from 50 yards away. I've even sent them outside and told them to specifically look at me int he bathroom (which of course people walking their dog don;t actually bother to do anyway ... ... anyway, long story short, I'd pay a few hundred quid not to have curtains drawn almost permanently. Probably save a fortune on people putting the light on every time they go into the loo ... Link: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=187148&sid=6961efdca12ad2fd1cb11f782443aedf
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EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #25 on: August 03, 2009, 06:11:26 PM » |
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Our floors are concrete. ... (Not very Eco though ...
It's worth keeping things in proportion. I worked out the other day the amount of concrete which would have the same CO₂ emissions as a year's energy use for the average house: it came to 50 m³. That's very very rough, though, probably really somewhere in the range 5 to 500 m³. If using a few cubes gives you significant energy saving then the CO₂ payback is probably only a few years.
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daftlad
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« Reply #26 on: August 03, 2009, 06:32:29 PM » |
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I always think it is best to look at doing a job with as little concrete etc and more eco materials then analyse it to see if it will perform as well as if the less eco material was used. Too often people say something is eco because it uses a little less energy than the norm but actually it could have been done with a lot less energy. I seem to have managed to move this thread onto one of my pet subjects..... sorry. laters
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #27 on: August 03, 2009, 06:38:40 PM » |
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thats ok daftlad, one of my pet hates with Grand Designs is when they're building an eco-home and you see them pouring tonnes and tonnes of concrete in as a base!
I think i would rather avoid concrete
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tony.
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« Reply #28 on: August 03, 2009, 07:47:42 PM » |
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cob walls i have seen on tv wired in micc/pyro cables with apvc oversheath
surface run on cob and then rendered/plastered over.
they will last longer than the house
tony
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kristen
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« Reply #29 on: August 04, 2009, 07:03:50 AM » |
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I've got pyro (buried in concrete / plaster). Gawd knows why they felt the need to over specify to that extent ... sparky says "If this place burnt down the wiring would still be standing". Anyways, costs a fortune whenever we want to change / adjust anything  Not to mention that its all imperial and the first thing we have to have is a set of expensive imperial-to-metric glands and so on.
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