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Author Topic: how to finish the outside of my timber frame extension  (Read 2190 times)
billi
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« on: August 26, 2009, 11:24:38 AM »

Hello

Winter is coming so i have to hurry up with weather proving  our extension

My preferred idea is metal (sinusoidal) cladding  , but the good one is costing over 20 euro a sqm  and the cheaper farm style about 10 euro (perhaps will rust  Huh) and there is lot of work involved around the windows  Tongue


The other idea is Plaster the plywood boards , but what plaster ? Will moisture will be kept in the plaster and damage the timber ? Use another Mambrane  over the outside and plaster with a mesh inside ?

Other idea ad another thin layer of outside insulation over the timber boards and then Plaster .
But what insulation that breathes but donot let moisture through

Thanks Billi


* extend.jpg (60.29 KB, 567x861 - viewed 409 times.)

* cabin.jpg (64.27 KB, 567x1218 - viewed 403 times.)
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Justme
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2009, 11:28:29 AM »

I would put some batons on & then either cedar shingles (more cost more time) or cedar siding (quicker & cheaper).

The extra air gap will help breathability. I assume that under the ply there is a breather membrane? If not fit one over the ply first.  
(taken a better look at pics & can see the breather is under the ply)
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 11:31:05 AM by Justme » Logged

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billi
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2009, 11:52:31 AM »

cheers

timber cladding is another option , but on the other hand all our cabin is timber , so want another finish ( but could paint it )
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« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2009, 12:03:09 PM »

Prob cost more than the £10-£20m2 metal option too.
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Navitron solar thermal system
30 x 58mm panel 259L TS
1200watts solar 120vdc
FX80 Solar controller
Victron 12v 3000w 120a
200w (250w peak) 12v turbine as a tester
6kva genny
6 x 2v cells 1550amp/h 5C
24 x 2v cells 700amp/h 5C
Total bank 4350 amp/h @12v
welshboy
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2009, 12:20:39 PM »

Just ideas
What about a  ferro cement. I have a ferro cement boat which is waterproof so I can't see why some reinforcing steel grid covered with chicken wire (you have to tie the chicken wire to the reinforcing grid) then plastered would not work.
Labour intensive but cheap.
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billi
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2009, 12:25:02 PM »

Yes thats  an idea as well as i am used to built ponds out of ferrocement

And as well i will do the inside  like you said , but only our subsoil straw or hemp and a bid of lime
here an experiment and seems to work very well

Billi


* clay.jpg (102.32 KB, 737x553 - viewed 358 times.)
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2009, 12:52:12 PM »

You could leave an air gap between the outside of the ply and the ferrocement- just space it with some plastic solid square  lengths -I think they are about 20mm X 20mm by couple metre lengths.
That should allow breathing and as long as you make the ferrocement  structure completely around the outside(excepting windows doors) it should be self standing and strong.

Edit  Thinking about it maybe square down pipe would give a bigger gap and more insulation
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 12:54:10 PM by welshboy » Logged
EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2009, 04:33:20 PM »

Have you considered cladding it with solar warm air collectors?  I.e., paint the timber black and clad with polycarbonate.  Put air inlets at the bottom and vents at the top to take warm air into the house or dump it outside to keep the walls dry.
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billi
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2009, 04:57:58 PM »

Yes i did consider that but the 2 main walls are   North and East  facing
The south and west walls  80 % double glazing anyhow
One interior wall i filled up with clay (about 1.4 tons ) that wall i will paint dark and ad wall heating tubes in the plaster  circulating heated water from heatpump, generator exhaust or and solar  , will see

But the flat roof  i could built a solar collector from

Thanks Billi

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EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2009, 06:54:02 PM »

Yes i did consider that but the 2 main walls are   North and East  facing

Indeed, not so good.  Still, East facing might produce some welcome morning warmth in the Spring and Autumn.
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billi
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« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2009, 07:22:11 PM »

Sure the East wall would be possible .... my thought's first , if i use transparent sheeting to stone face the wall first for more thermal mass .

Anyhow i  had a piece of Drainage matting at home ( have to find out how much that is ) about 10 mm wide and a fleece on both sides

That would keep the timber dry  nailed it on  ( have to find a glue) and plastered  with a mix of lime,cement ,sand, polypropylene fibres , grinned  straw  as an experiment

Hope it sticks

Billi


* 01013696.jpg (112.43 KB, 850x855 - viewed 334 times.)
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 07:25:24 PM by billi » Logged

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EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2009, 01:13:04 PM »

Sure the East wall would be possible .... my thought's first , if i use transparent sheeting to stone face the wall first for more thermal mass .
as

I'm very unconvinced about the use of thermal mass in a solar collector.  If the sun comes out for half an hour all you do is warm up the mass a bit then when the sun goes in lose the heat back out again.  I think it's much better to make the collector thermally lightweight so when a ray of sunshine arrives you can squirrel its heat away in your nice insulated house as quickly as possible.  If you want thermal mass put it inside the insulation.

Ideas of direct collection to the thermal mass come from the SW of the USA.  I don't think they translate well to circumstances with very intermittent sunshine such as Spring and Autumn in the British Isles.
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billi
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« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2009, 02:37:12 PM »

Sure i understand that , but i don't need solar heat during the day pumped into a conservatory directly  ... as the the glass to the south and west  is the collector . And as said the only wall would be the east wall that is shaded  in Winter

I need more heat during the night thats why i will attach underfloor heating pipes onto the solid (clay filled inertial wall ) and run warm water trough , perhaps with a heatpump from  battery / Pv and a woodstove

Quote
Ideas of direct collection to the thermal mass come from the SW of the USA.

Do you think so ? Can be , but its common practice in Europe  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trombe_wall

http://umwelt-wand.de/ti/index.html

Billi




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EccentricAnomaly
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« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2009, 06:25:35 PM »

Do you think so ? Can be , but its common practice in Europe  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trombe_wall

The Trombe wall at the Brighton Earthship was taken out because it didn't work.  I saw it on my first visit but didn't even pretend to look surprised when I heard why it had gone on my second.  I'd not be surprised if they work well in more continental climates, though.

Perhaps something more like:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barra_system
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billi
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« Reply #14 on: August 27, 2009, 08:10:01 PM »

Brighton Earthship ?   Can be , i do not know

The Trombe wall house  i know here in South West Ireland since 15  years  (installed 20 years ago)   seems to perform good .... and house owners are happy

My  about 80 cubic meter volume attached poly-tunnel could do with more thermal mass (not only timber)

My new built extension  i should have laid a solid stone floor in instead of timber (but the plan was to built  as we go and swoop and i got the timber floor for free )

I understand what you mean  and  i am very fond of solar air collectors  , but our house is 90 % timber (excluding herself  Tongue ) so thermal mass or storage is a thought , or have another kind of energy store

Billi
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