C.R.A.C

[desperate]

Ivan

Hmmm ... wonder if we could run it on Nitro??

Desperate

[noelsquibb]

Noel
No, No, NO. I know someone who used his left hand to steady the wood while he cut with one hand. He ended up cutting his left hand. A chainsaw has two handles for a reason. If you want steady the wood, put it in a log cradle/

Totally agree. Which is why Im pondering something that holds the saw tip or the top grab handle in place, so only a pivot action is possible, allowing me to operate the saw one handed.
They used to make one handed saws. The carpenters loved them but good ole H&S decided they were not acceptable on site. Think the tree surgeons still use them.

Noel Don't you burn your sawdust ? jack

No, Ive always used it as a soft bed to cut on without damaging touchdowns. Whats the best way to burn it ?


funnily enough I got sent this tonight - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CifBlOOIFWM - hillbilly saw.  and found  - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40sCGb678sQ&feature=related hillbilly logsplitter and a V8 chainsaw that can cut a 30" log in 2 seconds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40sCGb678sQ&feature=related

Some useful ideas then

noel

[knighty]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s02HSQD5mrk&feature=fvw

no good for long bits I guess.... but that looks pretty good / easy to use / safe / fast / cheap


:-)

[Richard Owen]

My local farm shop has saw benches with a device to clamp the chain guide of a chain saw.

The clamp is on a pivot, effectively making the saw part of the bench and limiting its movement to one plane. They also have chain guards and stops to limit the amount of movement of the saw.

Can't find one on line, but it sounds the sort of thing you're looking for.

[AlanM]

Heres a picture of an adjustable log holder that was fabricated. I think stihl and other ones are made but if you are handy with a welder this is more substantial than any that you can buy.
There are teeth on the top  and bottom parts which hold the log. Its the logs own weight which holds it there
Alan

[noelsquibb]

Anything that holds the stick and allows you to saw it, is safer than random attack. Trouble is, random attack of the logpile is the quickest way to fill a barrow and not have to wrestle lengths out of the heap.

My local farm shop has saw benches with a device to clamp the chain guide of a chain saw. The clamp is on a pivot, effectively making the saw part of the bench and limiting its movement to one plane. They also have chain guards and stops to limit the amount of movement of the saw. Can't find one on line, but it sounds the sort of thing you're looking for.

Thanks Richard, it might be.  This it ? -





Here's another useful log holder  http://www.logsplitter.biz/about_smart_holder.htm

I'm trying to optimise the return on effort and avoid all unnecessary movement.
Mostly I hate putting down the saw/ splitting axe and picking up a piece of wood.

I want to be continuously sawing or splitting and I don't want to be wandering around a 20 yard area picking up splits.

Actually if I'm truthful ,I want my strong fit young son ( who still lives at home ) to do the job.
Occasionally he will but he gets all distressed if anyone actually burns the wood he processed.

That's why I like the hillbilly approach. max return on effort and not too worried about the safety.
Speaking of which, I reckon that worm taper on the electric motor could get interesting on a real gnarly log.

So I welcome any suggestions that optimise return on effort.


noel

[KLD]

High up in the mountains in Austria I've seen a box type of sawbench. In that area they mainly harvest pine trees, ie. relatively straight trunks. The box was long enough to hold the entire trunks, and wide/ deep enough for several trunks. The sides were slotted every meter, which is the standard length any firewood would be cut into initially.
So, they would load several trunks into the box, and then run the chainsaw down the slots. Raaaang tang tang.
The box could be raised a little, saving your back. A few short cross pieces raise the trunks from the box bottom. The slots could obviously be set closer together.

For cutting the meter lengths to oven sized bits they'd use a circular saw.

Klaus

[desperate]

Hi all

well I picked up a 1900w 35cm Bosch yesterday, the words hot knife and butter come to mind, I think it is going to be more than capable enough for me, Centidesp wants to have a go, but I think that may be going a bit too far. I can appreciate the problems of humping the logs into a cuttable position, so I rigged a bench out of two scaff planks in a vee on a pair of band stands, it works quite well, but of course I still have to drag the log after each cut, one advantage of leecy saws not having to keep starting. It all seems fast enough for me, after all if I were not willing to do any phisical work I wouldn,t bother getting rid of the gasser   

Thanks for the input

BTW as mentioned in another thread I am going to be at cactusville full time for about 8 weeks from this coming monday, so if anyone is passing and wants to have a peep/help/take the p155, give us a call and I,ll stick the kettle on.

All the best

Desperate

[noelsquibb]

They never seem to cut quite as well as when you fit a new chain Desp. Should soon have it cutting normally then
Im thinking of putting some of that green / yellow striped electric tape along the flex on mine.


Cheers for the Austrian way Klaus.

Seems like quite a few movements between pick up stick and pick up log basket though.
Thats why Im pondering the pivoting saw and a shallow v shaped shelf, at waist height, to feed the stick onto the saw and off the saw into the wheel barrow or log basket.  This approach will work best for diameters that dont need splitting, which could be unfortunate for trees of a certain size  

Ive heard stories of a log processer that converts tree trunks into ready to burn logs. Probably only for wealthy forestry folk ...
Another story about an old welsh farmer who made a hole in the wall behind his open fire and poked a tree trunk through from outside. Just had to shove the trunk in a couple of times a day with the tractor, apparently.
A 30 ft stick could last a couple of weeks. Now thats a good return on effort. A few bits of asbestos to reduce the air gap around the stick and youre sorted.

noel

noel

[Richard Owen]

Thanks Richard, it might be.  This it ? -

That's the boy.

[Ivan]

Klaus,

I'm really impressed with the worm taper splitter. I think I've seen them before but not sure where. Any idea where you can buy one in the UK?

....and they are suitable for long logs - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Raz_XWacNTg&NR=1



Ivan

[KLD]

This one looks like you could make it DIY: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2362slATu1k
Or this hydraulic one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzCai7rvMZY&feature=related

I'm sure Billi knows some German supplier for these 

Klaus

[Justme]

Worm taper splitters can be very dangerous especially the tractor mounted ones as you wont stall them.

Hydraulic spliters are a better bet.

[tony.]

i use a cheap chop saw, mounted on a bench, on long logs my mate helps to turn if the diameter is too big for 1 cut then pushes a further 6" to the next cut, when it reaches about 4 feet its managable by a single person, and hes loading up the next trunk.
we did this for 1 hour the other week and fille 2 IBC containers!.
that was at his house, i have my wood for this year and next chopped up with a another load for 2011 ready, but struggling to hide it out the way
tony

[sleepybubble]

Thats why Im pondering the pivoting saw and a shallow v shaped shelf, at waist height, to feed the stick onto the saw and off the saw into the wheel barrow or log basket.  This approach will work best for diameters that dont need splitting, which could be unfortunate for trees of a certain size  

for 'that' size wood you want to get yourself a cheap electric sliding circular chopsaw...