navitron
 
Renewable Energy and Sustainability Forum
UK's most popular Renewable Energy Forum May 25, 2012, 04:00:16 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Anyone wishing to register as a new member on the forum is strongly recommended to use a "proper" email address - following recent spam/hack attempts on the forum, all security is set to "high", and "disposable" email addresses like Gmail, Yahoo and Hotmail tend to be viewed with suspicion, and the application rejected if there is any doubt whatsoever
 
Recent Articles: UPDATE ON DECC APPLICATION FOR LEAVE TO APPEAL TO THE SUPREME COURT | Yingli Green Energy's PV Module Ranks No.2 in TUV Rheinland Energy Yield Test | Navitron Solar Showers at Glastonbury for Year 5!
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: What is the secret to successful end feed joints?  (Read 4604 times)
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« on: September 26, 2009, 06:19:42 PM »

List

Here's a question for all those professional plumbers - what is the best approach to getting good end feed joints - especially when you are soldering the lower joint in a vertical pipe.

I  have been making up the various connection to my system zone unit for the wood burning stove.  Most of the short pipes can be made up out of situ - but it does leave some fairly tricky 28mm end feed couplings and tees in the vertical pipes that run up the wall from the stove to the airing cupboard.

I've been practising, and with plenty of flux, highly polished pipe ends and being able to get the blowlamp all the way around the coupling,  the upper half of a vertical joint is fairly good with a good neat, even fillet all the way around.  But try the lower joint and I am sure gravity is just going to spoil things - or is the capillary force between solder and copper stronger than gravity.

Any practical tips appreciated.  Or should I just wimp out and buy Yorkshire solder ring fittings?



Ken
Logged
wyleu
Guest
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2009, 08:35:54 PM »

I've done a few 28mm fittings in my amateur install and feel the difference is a matter of temperature. A Butane/propane mix is marginal for heating a 28mm fitting and as such the overall result is the danger of softening the other joints whilst completing the final connection.

The plumber I've seen, that I've admired, tend to use a hotter torch ( acetylene based ? )  which seems to have a much more proscribed response to heating in general.

As you say a methodical approach to cleanliness is, most certainly, required, but the dangers of over-fluxing in most soldering situations, especially using dirty flux, aggravates the problems. Having carefully considered the order in which you approach  the joints as well as he sub-components you well generate to build a complicated system is time well spent. Because it's not difficult to construct something that renders the last connection deeply in-accessible or un-buildable once the final connectors are rigidly soldered.

I've seem electrical heated solder clamps, has any one any experience, especailly when one considers the procsrcribed three hours ( is it? ) cooling time you are ment to give soldered joints?

Logged
sleepybubble
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 988


expect the unexpected, then its expected


« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2009, 09:04:31 PM »

No tips... just practice. As Wyleu says use better gas... very easy to dry a joint out with lower power gas, especially the bigger ones. I cheat and use solder ring mostly. I was having to do 54mm end feeds the week before though, and it was taking forever to get them warm enough to flow properly.

Ok one tip.... get a blob of solder on the pipe, when its flowing, introduce the end of the solder to the flowing blob, it will take as much as it needs to fill the fitting, but smear it around the fitting whilst it is still flowing to be sure.
Logged

;-)
desperate
Guest
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2009, 09:07:58 PM »

Hi Ken

I always use a biggish but soft flame to heat the fitting, not the pipe, and keep the solder on the junction of the pipe and fitting but not in the flame, as soon as 5mm of wire has melted you are done, If you overheat the copper or melt the solder in the flame your sunk. Also I think it is a good plan to use an aggressive flux and clean off afterwards, Fry Powerflow is so good you hardly need to clean up beforehand.

Hope that helps

Desperate

PS dont worry about creating a fillet, It,s what gets cappilaried into the joint that matters.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2009, 09:11:59 PM by desperate » Logged
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2009, 09:43:15 PM »

Wyleu, Desperate, Sleepybubble & List,

Thanks for the tips.  Is 5mm of 3mm solder enough to fill the capillary space in a 28mm fitting?  If so that's a good guide.

I hadn't considered over-fluxing.   I guess the flux just needs to be a surface smear to do its job - and not be so excessive that it boils out of the joint.

Having spent the afternoon and evening making sub-assemblies to couple up to the central neutraliser unit, I'm dreading the last two connections on the vertical rising pipes.  These will be the one, guaranteed to start spraying water out when I refill the system.

I am also becoming aware that I might also be creating something that cannot easily be un-built.  I might put the odd compression coupling in some of the pipes so that at least it can be slackened off and provide a little give, plus an extra degree of rotational movement so that things can be prised apart.

There are the conflicting requirements in a gravity feed system of using big 28mm pipes and keeping all joints and elbows to a minimum so as to maximise flow, then have  to add a few 28mm compression couplings so that you can service the unit.

The systemzone neutraliser has 4 big pipe unions along its base and two on either side.  This makes it fairly difficult to move in any direction once the unions are tightened.

I'm now 12 hours into this install and aching from kneeling and lying on the floor. I hope to complete everything tomorrow in daylight and then re-fill the system.  Otherwise we will be bathing in cold water if I don't get the boiler running again - but I suppose I do have an unused immersion heater that could be used at a pinch.

Attached are a couple of pictures of the work in progress - plus a description below of what the various bits are.  

The systemzone is a 10" wide x 6" high x 3" deep steel vessel fitted with a load of 1" BSP unions.  Heat from the wood fired boiler is gravity circulated into the left hand side.  Heat from a pumped gas boiler circuit is fed into the right hand side.  The bottom unions are separate circuits from which heat can be pumped out of the unit to feed a specific zone.  Systemlink make these in all sizes to cope with properties that have several zones and several heat sources.  I just have 2 heat sources for the moment and one zone.

The vessel is going to get up to boiler temperature - so the airing cupboard will be the hottest spot in the house.  

My cat will no doubt find this out soon.  Wink  He did however get locked in the loft this evening as a result of his curiosity, and after hearing a mewing noise for some time - he had to be man-handled down the loft ladder which he found quite undignified.  Angry

The flow and return from the woodstove boiler come in on the left hand side in 28mm pipe.  The flow continues upwards to a 45/45 elbow dog-leg and then as the expansion pipe up to the header tank in the loft.  Just above the dog-leg there is a T which feeds the heat-leak radiator in the bedroom.

The return to the WBS  is the lower left union on the system zone.  It goes down to the WBS, and is also Teed to the return pipe of the heat leak radiator.  The return to the WBS is also fitted with an injector T, which can be used to accelerate the flow if the gravity circulation is insufficient.  As far as possible I've tried to keep these connections neat and free from unnecessary obstructions.  I went out of my way to make sure the expansion pipe to the header tank only had a dog-leg and not a pair of 90 elbows en-route.  This way if I do boil the WBS, then the water and steam has a direct route out.

The new green Wilo pump behind the systemzone.  This pumps the flow from my gas boiler into the right hand port of the systemzone.

The four lower ports are for two separate zones.  The left and right unions are the flow and return to my usual pumped HW and CH circuits.   The middle pair will eventually be an additional zone (probably the Lister etc in the shed - when I complete some more pipework).

Whilst it does look a bit of a rats-nest,  there was already a considerable amount of pipework already in the airing cupboard, including the original CH circulation pump, the hot water cylinder, the flow and returns to the boiler and central heating loop and also the motorised valves for selecting HW and CH. Adding the systemzone here seemed logical, because it is straight-up the side of the chimney breast from the wood burning stove/boiler.

I hope to have the plumbing completed tomorrow morning and the system re-filled.  I also have to move the control electrics from where they are obscured behind the systemzone to a position further up the wall, and also fit a pipe stat for the control of the new pump, to ensure that the heat is circulated out of the systemzone when the wood burning back boiler reaches a sensible temperature.

Now that the bulk of the plumbing is in place, it would be possible to fit a twin coil thermal store on the output of the WBS  such that it gravity circulated.  This store would probably have to be located in the attic, and until I get around to a long promised loft conversion - this option will have to wait.

Anyone considering a WBS, might wish to consider whether the additional hassle involved with linking a back-boiler into a gas central heating system is really worth the effort.  Pipe runs and the limitations of existing building features (such as chimney breasts in the way) can make what appears on paper a simple idea into a bit of a marathon project.  You might wish to leave the plumbing to the professionals  - unless you have a lot of time and evenings and weekends to pick away at the pipework.

It's slightly ironic that this house started with a solid fuel boiler in the back of the range in the living room, and now after 2 generations of central heating, something similar is going back in.



Ken



* systemzone2.jpg (45.4 KB, 640x480 - viewed 423 times.)

* systemzone3.jpg (53.6 KB, 640x853 - viewed 422 times.)
« Last Edit: September 26, 2009, 10:36:24 PM by KenB » Logged
desperate
Guest
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2009, 09:53:27 PM »

KenB

Nice one, it,s such good fun scrabbling around in a cupboard Huh 5mm is plenty if it wets the copper straight away, if you think about the difference in the diameter of the spigot and the socket, and the length of the joint, the volume is tiny.

Desperate
Logged
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2009, 11:08:29 PM »

Just had a brilliant idea  Cheesy

Cut the 28mm rising pipes about 2" nearer to the floor,  solder up all the last remaining joints of the sub-assemblies, not in-situ, including the awkward lower vertical ones below the 28mm end feed tees. just leaving the last two rising joints to be completed with a pair of Yorkshire solder ring 28mm straight couplings. Doh - even I'd have trouble messing that up. (I'd even have considered compressions - but I cant fit them in.

First golden rule of plumbing - never cram stuff too close together that you can't get at it - either with pliers, pipeslice cutter or blowlamp).  whistlie

Fortunately we have an excellent plumber's merchant nearby (Plumbwell, Woodhatch, Reigate, also Croydon) who opens Sundays 9am till 2pm.  They are about the best around here price wise and always keep a good stock.

With a good day's progress tomorrow, we might even Christen the stove tomorrow evening  Grin



Ken



Logged
sleepybubble
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 988


expect the unexpected, then its expected


« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2009, 11:22:08 PM »

Nice going Ken, 10 hours in one airing cupboard is hell on earth.... cramped legs, kicked over cups of tea, frustration, satisfaction at completing one pipe run.... been there done that many a day, I hate airing cupboards, but not quite as much as changing bath taps... grazed knuckles from brick work, tools keep slipping off fittings, fibreglass from bath up your finger nail, and all whilst lying on your back looking at the underside of a sink, with your feet flaying around above you so you can get purchase.

Some days I wonder why.... have ana applaud just to make you feel better...
Logged

;-)
lightfoot
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1508


« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2009, 07:52:14 AM »

Hi Ken,

I noticed in your pictures that pump is positioned with the impeller shaft vertical.  However, to avoid premature pump bearing failure - which are water cooled/lubricated - it's recommended that the pump is installed so that the impeller shaft is horizontal/level.

Also, if you've been doing a lot of soldering etc, it's not a bad idea to give the system a bit of a flush before installing the pump.


Good luck - I dare say your looking forwards to a wee dram with your feet up in front of the WBS.

Lightfoot.

Logged

Mother Nature is a wonderful housekeeper - but eat her out of house and home and you may just get your marching orders.
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2009, 09:16:01 AM »

Lightfoot,
 
Thanks for the tip regarding the pump.  It's not too late to turn it through 90 degrees.  It's not fully in place yet, as I still have to move all the control wiring from behind the pump and move it higher up the wall where it will be more accessible.  There's going to be a wooden shelf fixed above this lot,  1. to hide the gubbins and 2.  give the cat somewhere warm to sleep. Smiley

Ken
Logged
Flamethrower_
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 720



« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2009, 10:17:23 AM »

Ken,

Regarding the comments on pump position it also important not to let the shaft go below the horizontal position, see page 5 of attached PDF http://net.grundfos.com/doc/webnet/poweredby/pdf/installer-guiden.pdf


Rob
Logged
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2009, 11:14:45 AM »

Thanks Rob,

I'll be back on the final plumbing as soon as I get the electrics moved.

Those Honeywell junction boxes are best kept closed. Who knows what you are going to find inside.   Shocked

This rats-nest  of wiring controls two valves, the circulation pump, links to the wireless thermostat receiver unit, the 2 channel controller and a tank stat.

It was a professional heating engineer who installed this lot - see picture. Huh



Ken




* junction_2.jpg (46.42 KB, 800x600 - viewed 377 times.)
Logged
Richard Owen
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1995


Navitron PV Installer


« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2009, 11:50:24 AM »


It was a professional heating engineer who installed this lot - see picture. Huh


Well, that's your afternoon sorted.
Logged

44 Yingli 230Wp panels feeding into 2x Solar Edge SE5000 inverters.
20x 58mm SE, 20x 58mm SW, Solar Thermal feeding 320l thermal store.
10kW heat pump.
300W of Hydro Power.
KenB
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2691


Energy Self Enlightenment


WWW
« Reply #13 on: September 27, 2009, 11:55:24 AM »

Richard,

The whole control system needs to be reconfigured to take into account the additional circulation pump and the pipestat on the WBS.

The priority was to get the junction box  6" further up the wall where it can be more easily accessed.

I haven't seen such bad electrics for some time.  Wires untrimmed, twisted together and loosely poked into the terminal strip.

I have a feeling that I might be running the hot tank on the immersion heater tonight at this rate. Huh


Ken
Logged
rob26440
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 515


Clear off birds!


« Reply #14 on: September 27, 2009, 01:35:31 PM »

Ken,

I note the box above the rats nest says it's a "Wireless System"!   Grin

Rob.
Logged

S/E England. 30x58mm tubes, S/W facing 40deg pitched roof, 216L primary and 184L secondary cylinders, TDC3 with home-made, separate controller to switch between cylinders, 15mm tubing with min 25mm insulation.
Pages: [1] 2 3   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!