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MEDWARD
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« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2009, 09:51:44 PM » |
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A friend has just offered me some sealed batteries he can let me have, he has either 2 x 6V 100Ah batteries which I could put in series, or he 2 x 12V 100ah batteries which again I can put in series. Would the charge controller you mentioned be suitable?
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Outtasight
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« Reply #16 on: December 07, 2009, 12:27:31 AM » |
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The 20A controller would work with either set of batteries (12V or 24V).
The output current is going to be 210/12=17.5A or 210/24=8.75A so you could get away with the 10A version of the controller if you use a 24V battery pack but if all you want to do is run some lights off of it, you'd be better off sticking to a 12V battery as it's easier to get 12V lights.
You could connect the two 12V batts in parallel to give 12V at 200Ah instead of connecting them in series to give 24V at 100Ah.
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #17 on: December 07, 2009, 04:23:31 PM » |
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The 20A controller would work with either set of batteries (12V or 24V).
The output current is going to be 210/12=17.5A or 210/24=8.75A so you could get away with the 10A version of the controller if you use a 24V battery pack but if all you want to do is run some lights off of it, you'd be better off sticking to a 12V battery as it's easier to get 12V lights.
You could connect the two 12V batts in parallel to give 12V at 200Ah instead of connecting them in series to give 24V at 100Ah.
If I stick to 12V lights then I'd need a 24v-12v controller aren't these £200 + ? 12v LED or Fluorescent Flood light - I've seen a 12v LED flood that is ultra efficient and uses only 13w but apparently outputs that of a 500w halogen flood. These are £106 each. I might scrap the PIR idea and just have a switch. Would the controller prevent back-feed in to the panel?
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billi
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« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2009, 04:42:13 PM » |
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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dhaslam
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« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2009, 05:59:40 PM » |
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What may be a bit confusing here is that the panels output a voltage in excess of 24volts. Does this mean that a 12/24v controller can output to batteries at 12V or 24V just by changing the setting? I haven't used a charge controller because the panels on the boat are connected directly to the batteries.
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Outtasight
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« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2009, 06:53:05 PM » |
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The cheapo MPPT controller that Billi and I are looking at converts the high PV input voltage to suit either a 12V battery or a 24V one. If the controller is like mine, it recognises the type of battery automatically when you connect it (provided the battery isn't dead). Then it transforms the input power as I stated, so if you're using a 12V battery you get twice as many Amps charge current as with a 24V battery (but the total power is the same).
Just boshing a high voltage panel on to a 12V battery without a MPPT controller will sort of work but the panel will work at the much lower than ideal voltage and waste a huge amount of power.
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billi
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« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2009, 08:15:39 PM » |
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..... and the possibility to "track" down PV panels voltage (some controllers work upto 150 volt) to battery voltage at a higher efficiency , allows people to find cheaper PV panels (cause mass produced for grid tie ideas) for Battery charging , instead to be restricted to expensive 12 volt or 24 volt panels
Billi
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2009, 08:44:04 PM » |
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Thanks for this as I just wanting to make sure before I commit to buying.
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2009, 12:05:01 AM by MEDWARD »
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tony.
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« Reply #23 on: December 07, 2009, 10:13:19 PM » |
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i see blt are doing a 8.? watt led lamp for £49 dont know the voltage, suspect it may be 230 volt.
tony
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #24 on: December 07, 2009, 11:11:06 PM » |
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Billi, I can get on Conrad website, but not via link. Please can you confirm the part number of the item listes, is it 20A solar controller With display, part number 110209 £76.95 ?
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billi
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« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2009, 11:24:39 PM » |
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2009, 11:28:09 PM by billi »
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Guinness no Grid comes near
1.6 kw and 2.4 kw PV array , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw windturbine
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #26 on: December 07, 2009, 11:52:26 PM » |
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Got it thanks item number 110372 - 89 MPPT-SOLARLADEREGLER 20 A £95.95
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #27 on: December 08, 2009, 12:05:48 AM » |
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Did you think £106 is about right for 12v LED flood (that is ultra efficient and uses only 13w and apparently outputs that of a 500w halogen flood)?
Only I've just found a "Rectangular Area Flood Light Switched Worklamp 12v-24v" on fleabay 17m x 12 m Spread Ideal for both 12v and 24v vehicles. For £16 including delivery Would this suitable?
Again will I need the charge controller housed somewhere inside (i.e. dry)?
If this is the case I'll need some type 3 connectors tails to go up the wall to my attic to the charge controller and battery. Then from the battery am I ok to just run flex to the light and switch?
Do I need any breakers anywhere?
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2009, 12:36:10 AM by MEDWARD »
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Outtasight
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« Reply #28 on: December 08, 2009, 07:36:15 PM » |
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£106 is really expensive for a flood. You can get CFL ones much cheaper (though maybe not 12V).
The £16 LED work lamps I've seen are just that... LED versions of those little lamps you use when working under the car. Not really suitable for lighting up a garden. You might get the same illumination as a 60W incandescent work lamp but not the 500W you're looking for.
Yes, you have to keep the charge controller somewhere dry (in the garage, indoors). No solar charge controllers I know of are rated for outdoor mounting.
You'll need as a minimum a fuse to the charge controller from the solar panel rated above the short circuit current of the panel (probably a 15A fuse will do). You'll also need a fuse for the output of the charge controller to the battery (25A fuse for the 20A controller). Finally, you'll need a suitable fuse for the circuit from the battery to the light switch (this depends entirely on how much power the light is expected to use and the gauge of the wire you install).
Although not essential, a switch from the panel to the controller and another from the controller to the battery would allow maintenance of the controller during the day (you can't "turn off" a solar panel easily). 30A cooker switches will do and are easy to find and quite cheap.
For the lighting circuit you can pick up outdoor low voltage lighting wire that is ok for runs of up to 25m as it's quite a bit thicker than mains flex and is UV resistant. I use some cable made by Ring for outdoor low voltage lights that I got on special offer at at garden centre. A normal mains light switch will do for low power DC lights as the switches are rated to about 6A (72W at 12V). For more powerful lights, use a mains spur switch (without the neon) to switch 13A or a cooker switch again to handle 30A.
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MEDWARD
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« Reply #29 on: December 12, 2009, 04:16:27 AM » |
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