Pre-treatment of heating system prior to fitting Magnaclean

[climber]

In an effort to squeeze maximum efficiency from my 6 year old Potterton Suprima boiler, I intend to fit a Magnaclean.

I don't reckon the installers added any/enough inhibitor to the 14 rad system. Have fixed a few leaks/replaced pump, and water was Black.

I plan to add some sludge remover/cleaner to the system.

Should I add before/after Magnaclean installation?

Which of the many available flavours of cleaner should I use? Boiler has cast iron H/E.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[chickensoup]

Climber,
          I've just cleaned a 10 rad system today, i first added Sentinel x800 jet-flo via the f&e tank, ran the system for 3 hours, then cold flushed with a powerflush. The system pipework was excellent afterwards, it took almost all of the 1.5mm bake on magnetite off the internals. It is okay to use on all metals and doesn't present a problem.

               Chicken

[tony.]

I understand that there is a school of thought about not installing inhibitor.

I used to be involved ( a long time ago)in Council property upgrades ie 500+ houses getting rewired and new gas central heating, different councils had different specs some wanted inhibitor some didnt.

I dont have any in mine.

tony

[desperate]

Climber hi

The most important thing with any heating system is to make sure no air is leaking in, either through the open vent or a wobbly compression joint upstream of the pump. One of the symptoms of air entrapment is black water, another would be regularly having to bleed one or more of the rads, if that is the case I would inspect very closely all the joints that you can find, dont be fooled into thinking that if you cant see water leaking out,you dont have any air leaks.
I would also clean the system with either chemicals or a flush as Chickensoup says before installing the Magna clean

 In theory a hermetically sealed system wouldn't gain any advantage with an inhibitor, but in the real world I cant think of any disadvantage,  other than cost.

Desperate

[climber]

Thanks for your replies.

I have been fixing small weeps at rad valves/pump/compression fittings, but loads of Hep2O fittings beneath floors/in walls where I have no access.

System pressure was dropping when we first moved in (6 months ago), requiring topping up every couple of weeks. Has been stable now for a couple of months, so I reckon I have the worst of the leaks under control.

I will add some inhibitor once I have flushed the system, for the sake of another £10 or £20. Although the rate of corrosion is much lower without air present in the system, there will always be a certain amount of electrolytic corrosion taking place.

I don't plan to pay for a Powerflush, so will treat with chemicals before draining system.

Chicken, do you have to powerflush after Sentinel X800, or would a drain down and refill a couple of times be sufficient? What about using X400 - Instructions say it can be left in system for up to 4 weeks.

Thanks