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Author Topic: Battery Connections  (Read 386 times)
HillTimeBandits
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« on: May 23, 2020, 08:04:05 AM »

Hi all.
Quick question. Iím upgrading my DC cabling and need to join two DC cables which have M10 lugs.
One cable is fixed and expensive and donít really want to change it!
Cables are 90mm sq and 70mm sq. Itís a 24v system and may pass 200 amps.
Could I use standard bolts (as Iíd get in B&b etc) , or do I need specific brass or tinned brass bolts?
I also see copper spring washers on virctron dc fuse connectors and wonder where might I get these?
Any help appreciated.
Iím heading into Halfords later today to see what I can source.
Regards
Enda
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Scruff
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« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2020, 10:09:19 AM »

Brass won't get as hot but the ought to not conduct if you put the lug on the terminal and crank them. A2 stainless steel is the cheapest alternative that won't corrode with electrolysis. Get a class T fuse it can handle the heat.
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HillTimeBandits
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« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2020, 12:06:14 PM »

Thatís great, Thanks.
I see plenty of a2 SS solutions and will consider the T fuse.
Enda

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kdmnx
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2020, 12:59:33 PM »

The correct device is an ďM10 junction studĒ, or a bus bar. You should consider how you will hold the junction in place and protect it from accidental shorting.
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12x JA Solar 340Wp panels (total 4080Wp)
Lux Power inverter charger
5x PylonTech 2000 2.4kWh batteries (total 12kWh (11kWh usable))
HillTimeBandits
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« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2020, 02:39:53 PM »

Thanks kdmnx
Thatís brilliant. I guessed something like this existed, but did not know the correct terminology to find online!
Got some now, and understand the need to cover.
Enda
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Scruff
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« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2020, 04:14:06 PM »

I put the bus bars remotely so I can hve as few cables at the battery terminals as possible. The Class T fuse needs the right holder, it doubles as a heat sink.
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Nickel2
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North-East Hampshire


« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2020, 05:13:40 PM »

Before you bolt down you ring terminals, make sure they are flat and clean so that they make good contact. Dirt, oxide, grime, corrosion, etc will all raise contact resistance and lead to hot-spots, looking like what Scruff had with his fuses.
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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
Nearly dead 24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
HillTimeBandits
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« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2020, 08:30:21 PM »

Thanks Guys.
Got a couple of stud terminals and a suitable junction box to protect them also.
Note taken on cleaning etc. Iím also planning to re lug the older cables (That is if they are in good nick inside).
May need to buy some more ...these 70mm cables are hard on the pocket, but good kit requires good kit!
Enda

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Scruff
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« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2020, 09:52:17 PM »

looking like what Scruff had with his fuses.

Here...that was ohms law not my terminals buster! A golden coloured zinc plated ANL fuse running 170A is a 15watt heater outtov the China box.
I'm a Class T convert now. Ä150 for a fuse and holder...they've got reassuringly expensive written all over them.  ballspin


but good kit requires good kit!

Amen that.

Remember also used good kit beats shyte new kit every time.
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Nickel2
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« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2020, 07:35:25 AM »

I^2.R
 Grin
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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
Nearly dead 24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
Scruff
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« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2020, 11:38:28 AM »

I^2.R
 Grin
I knew you'd not let me away with that....oh look theres me coat....
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