Navitron Renewable Energy and Sustainability Forum

BIOMASS => General => Topic started by: hawkie on November 26, 2010, 05:45:05 AM

Title: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: hawkie on November 26, 2010, 05:45:05 AM

Has anyone any experience of chainsaw sharpeners?  I have been using a round file and guess work on the angles (just following the original angle) But now looking into an electric sharpener. There are many to chose from varying in price from about 25.00 up to hundreds of quid.

have been looking on flebay for around 30 to 40

 ;D ;D Hawkie  ;D ;D

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Billy on November 26, 2010, 07:57:45 AM
Never used an electric one but the best I found is the human hand closely aided by a guide for getting the angles right.  Using a new file helps to get a nice edge and don't forget to flat file the tops when they stick up above the guide.


 ;D ;D ;D

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Bodidly on November 26, 2010, 08:49:43 AM
I second Billy. Just make sure you have the rite file and guide for your chain.


Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: DonL on November 26, 2010, 08:56:14 AM
I third Billi, You can do it on the saw. It doesn't take a many strokes on each tooth and as long as you are careful with the angles and use a sharp file of the right diameter it works really well.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: renewablejohn on November 26, 2010, 09:19:03 AM
Unless your a professional tree surgeon you should not really need to sharpen the chain that often providing your not making school boy errors of trying to cut nails or stones on the ground.  I use a chainsaw on a regular basis and have 2 chains and bars the "old" chain for rough logging work and the "new" chain for tree felling. I normally run the logging chain for 2 years then replace with new chain and bar which then becomes the tree felling chain. Takes about 10 mins to swap chains.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: guydewdney on November 26, 2010, 09:58:36 AM
this type are cheap


Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: stannn on November 26, 2010, 11:12:28 AM
I have no hesitation at all in recommending the Dremel chainsaw-sharpening attachment. I have the cordless 10.8V model which does up to 35000 rpm. My chain needs a 4mm dia stone but the kit has 3 stone diameters. The advantages are that the angle guide makes visual alignment a cinch and depth setting is automatic. Best of all, it puts negligible load on the chain and so you do not need to clamp it to prevent vibration. You only need to spend a second or two on each tooth and the chain cuts like new. The stone last quite a long time but a replacement is less than 2 on ebay.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: greentangerine on November 26, 2010, 11:32:50 AM
I'll second that.  I use my Dremel and find it a breeze to use - replacement stones come in pack of three and are reasonably priced.

I tend to sharpen after every other use and it makes a big difference.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Mike McMillan on November 28, 2010, 06:57:12 AM
I agree, dremmel makes chain sharpening a doddle

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Amy on November 28, 2010, 08:53:07 AM
An angle grinder is permissable to take down the depth guides but I always do the teeth by eye.
When I was a kid we had a monster Mc Culloch saw with 22'' bar, manual oiling and a sharpening guide which never worked smoothly, so I learned to do it by eye.

That saw was a huge dinosaur, like something out of a 1950s canadian movie

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: wookey on November 29, 2010, 12:56:02 AM
Another vote for the dremel tool. It really does work very well - quick and easy. Takes a little bit of practice/understanding to learn to do it evenly, or to centre-up a chain which is cutting to one side, but a lot easier with the dremel tool than by hand.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Ivan on November 29, 2010, 03:11:06 PM
I'll have to look up the dremel tool attachment - will speed up a job I've never got time to do.

Sometimes, I think you don't realise how blunt a chain has got. Admittedly when you start seeing smoke as the chain tries to polish the wood to death, it's obvious, but it's really noticeable how good a sharp chain is. My 50cc  chainsaw at full tilt will chop a 24" log in just a few seconds, whereas when it needs sharpening, it would take 60s or more. Mine seems to need sharpening fairly regularly, but I guess chain quality also comes into it.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: frotter on November 29, 2010, 05:10:51 PM
Dremel by eye for me - too stingy to buy gadget. Works nice and quick.......


Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: MR GUS on November 29, 2010, 05:21:55 PM
If you ebay the kit with the various pieces & angle guide marker it's often around the 9.60 mark, delivered.
My seller preferences are,  hendr0ld  or ancatown1  both despatch promptly with a proper invoice.

Also useful for sharpening those mower blades (also available as a seperate kit, again with an angle guide)
Dremel is good, do consider a Dremel 4486 Multi Chuck if contemplating treating yourself to a dremel, far less hassle than collets, whilst not being universal they take alot of accy's

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: hawkie on November 30, 2010, 10:24:06 AM
Hi All

thanks for the info as usual

I have seen a file based kit on the bay that looks quite good (

Take a look and see what you think


 ;D ;D Hawkie  ;D ;D

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: MR GUS on November 30, 2010, 10:27:51 AM
Hawkie, theres always room fro a dremel in your kit.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Bodidly on November 30, 2010, 10:36:57 AM
Looks like a good quality file set. That is the Style of guide I always use.


Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: tony. on November 30, 2010, 12:05:39 PM
1.50 for a round file for me.
Keep a spare chain and give the other a few strokes  :) now and again

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: Justme on November 30, 2010, 02:07:43 PM
Have a look at this

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: qeipl on November 30, 2010, 05:22:23 PM
Round file with a guide.
Rotate the file every now and again so that you're not rubbing a blunt file on the tooth. Replace the file as soon as it's feeling blunt all round.
Two rubs with the file per tooth EVERY time you refill the fuel tank - takes about 2 minutes. Leaving the teeth to go blunt before you sharpen is a false economy - creates heat and sweat and slows the job down.
Always refill the chain oil tank when you do the fuel tank and always use proper chain oil (not waste engine oil which just gets thrown off the chain).

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: DonL on December 01, 2010, 09:54:19 AM
One thing which hasn't been mentioned which I think is important is to set the saw up properly for sharpening. I clamp the blade in a vice with brass, or more accurately bits of copper pipe split along the length, flattened and bent into an L, in the jaws to protect the coating on the blade. With the saw held firmly in the right place to work on you can do a good job with file and guide.
I normally sharpen before I start a session,it might be good practise to sharpen more often but I'm normally in a field somewhere and it's easier to change the chain if you have a misadventure or it gets blunt.
One thing I've learnt is that if you do encounter some barbed wire or even touch the ground the chain is blunted immediately and really hard to resharpen. I normally give it to the professionals then having found an organisation that can be relied on to do a good job - some don't, but I suppose with a Dremel or similar you could recover a quite badly blunted chain.

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: hawkie on December 08, 2010, 08:10:52 PM
Hi Guys

Looks like Mrs hawkie has bought me the file based sharpener from theebay for Christmas (much better than sox)

Will tell you all about it once Santa has delivered it in just over 2 weeks time

 ;D ;D Hawkie  ;D ;D

Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: County 4x4 on December 12, 2010, 09:23:05 AM
That's the option I'd have gone for Hawkie.

If you're not careful with power sharpening stuff you can end up blueing the chain which isn't going to help anything. With a file and guide, as long as you learn to do it properly (ie tilt the guide towards the front of the bar so that the front edge rests on the depth gauge) you can sharpen up anytime and anywhere without needing a power supply. When I worked as a forester we'd generally touch the chain up at every refuelling - just a couple of strokes per tooth to keep it at best performance, as well as making life easier for the saw and the operator. The kit you got also has a depth gauge setter so don't forget to use it - the sharpest cutters in the world won't cut if the depth gauges are too high!


Title: Re: Chainsaw sharpener
Post by: peterpiper on January 27, 2011, 11:03:09 PM
If doing any more than 'a touch up', files seem to last me for only one sharpening session.

When using power sharpener, to avoid overheating (metal softens then won't hold edge) wet stone with Turps Substitute before each tooth.

I use a Ferm Combitool (old mains model), with appropriate diameter stone, handheld.
I just dip the stone in a capfull of Turps, as heat is produced it has to evaporate the Turps before the temperature can rise further. Also keeping the speed down helps.

I also use Turps for cooling when drilling metal, squirted occasionally from an old shower gel bottle. You could do this if using a chainsaw attachment.