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Author Topic: Chainsaw sharpener  (Read 10236 times)
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Officially "Awesome" because Frotter said so!

« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2010, 10:27:51 AM »

Hawkie, theres always room fro a dremel in your kit.

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« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2010, 10:36:57 AM »

Looks like a good quality file set. That is the Style of guide I always use.

« Reply #17 on: November 30, 2010, 12:05:39 PM »

1.50 for a round file for me.
Keep a spare chain and give the other a few strokes  Smiley now and again
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« Reply #18 on: November 30, 2010, 02:07:43 PM »

Have a look at this

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« Reply #19 on: November 30, 2010, 05:22:23 PM »

Round file with a guide.
Rotate the file every now and again so that you're not rubbing a blunt file on the tooth. Replace the file as soon as it's feeling blunt all round.
Two rubs with the file per tooth EVERY time you refill the fuel tank - takes about 2 minutes. Leaving the teeth to go blunt before you sharpen is a false economy - creates heat and sweat and slows the job down.
Always refill the chain oil tank when you do the fuel tank and always use proper chain oil (not waste engine oil which just gets thrown off the chain).
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« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2010, 09:54:19 AM »

One thing which hasn't been mentioned which I think is important is to set the saw up properly for sharpening. I clamp the blade in a vice with brass, or more accurately bits of copper pipe split along the length, flattened and bent into an L, in the jaws to protect the coating on the blade. With the saw held firmly in the right place to work on you can do a good job with file and guide.
I normally sharpen before I start a session,it might be good practise to sharpen more often but I'm normally in a field somewhere and it's easier to change the chain if you have a misadventure or it gets blunt.
One thing I've learnt is that if you do encounter some barbed wire or even touch the ground the chain is blunted immediately and really hard to resharpen. I normally give it to the professionals then having found an organisation that can be relied on to do a good job - some don't, but I suppose with a Dremel or similar you could recover a quite badly blunted chain.

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« Reply #21 on: December 08, 2010, 08:10:52 PM »

Hi Guys

Looks like Mrs hawkie has bought me the file based sharpener from theebay for Christmas (much better than sox)

Will tell you all about it once Santa has delivered it in just over 2 weeks time

 Grin Grin Hawkie  Grin Grin

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« Reply #22 on: December 12, 2010, 09:23:05 AM »

That's the option I'd have gone for Hawkie.

If you're not careful with power sharpening stuff you can end up blueing the chain which isn't going to help anything. With a file and guide, as long as you learn to do it properly (ie tilt the guide towards the front of the bar so that the front edge rests on the depth gauge) you can sharpen up anytime and anywhere without needing a power supply. When I worked as a forester we'd generally touch the chain up at every refuelling - just a couple of strokes per tooth to keep it at best performance, as well as making life easier for the saw and the operator. The kit you got also has a depth gauge setter so don't forget to use it - the sharpest cutters in the world won't cut if the depth gauges are too high!

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« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2011, 11:03:09 PM »

If doing any more than 'a touch up', files seem to last me for only one sharpening session.

When using power sharpener, to avoid overheating (metal softens then won't hold edge) wet stone with Turps Substitute before each tooth.

I use a Ferm Combitool (old mains model), with appropriate diameter stone, handheld.
I just dip the stone in a capfull of Turps, as heat is produced it has to evaporate the Turps before the temperature can rise further. Also keeping the speed down helps.

I also use Turps for cooling when drilling metal, squirted occasionally from an old shower gel bottle. You could do this if using a chainsaw attachment.

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