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Author Topic: help please! Just turned on WRB09 first time since buying it in 2005  (Read 10427 times)
rogermunns
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« Reply #15 on: December 21, 2010, 10:05:15 PM »

I have seen it now.

These wires go to the top of the board as shown on my other pic. (other posting)
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rogermunns
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« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2010, 10:09:03 PM »

Here are the other ends of those wires:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


* R0015900gimp.JPG (124.84 KB, 486x365 - viewed 254 times.)
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welshboy
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« Reply #17 on: December 21, 2010, 10:16:46 PM »

Hmmm
 
Maybe yours is different - I reproduce below Alans posting

My WRB09 pump is several years old. Things may be different
on newer versions

There are two flow switches.

One is wired from Live (terminal 30 ) to 31
and
One is wired from Live (terminal 30 ) to 32

Here variable speed drives are used and external controls are in operation.

Just linking out the flow switches will not allow the heat pump to work.

If you are not using the flow switches then a 230 volt relay is required
with the coil wired from terminal ( PZ pump to Neutral )

One normally open contact wired between 30 and 31
and
One normally open contact wired between 30 and 32

Regards

Alan


Even if you do short them across Alan suggests it will not work - Sorry I cannot advise you.
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welshboy
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« Reply #18 on: December 21, 2010, 10:32:08 PM »

Was there a wiring diagram on the inside of the housing ?
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rogermunns
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« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2010, 10:52:22 PM »

Thanks, I read  Alan's post but I don't know what it means I should do.

Yes there was a diag. on the inside of the lid.

Here is a photo of it


* R0015920gimp.JPG (79.29 KB, 491x368 - viewed 253 times.)
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guydewdney
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« Reply #20 on: December 21, 2010, 11:59:10 PM »

looks like 31 and 32 to 30 - jumper them, and see what happens!

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welshboy
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« Reply #21 on: December 22, 2010, 09:46:10 AM »

looks like 31 and 32 to 30 - jumper them, and see what happens!


I agree with Guy - I just wanted to confirm the wiring diagram was not different to mine.

On mine the 30 31  and 30 32  lead down into the black sheaths and I simply shorted them the other end as my previous pic shows.
You could do it as Guy says directly


* Rogermunns3.JPG (86.8 KB, 960x1505 - viewed 250 times.)
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rogermunns
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« Reply #22 on: December 22, 2010, 01:36:23 PM »

Hello and thanks again to you both;

what I intend doing is to connect a new wire from the empty '30' point three from the right into the empty '31' and '32' positions on the left of the bank.

OK?

When I bought this beast I was clearly naive in that I expected decent instructions to be included and also for it to be a simple plumbing job. I did not expect having to compensate for the unit's shortcomings as supplied.

I am extremely grateful for all of the help and advice from forum members. Without this I would have been utterly lost.

Has an improved written manual been produced? I only have a pdf file, downloaded from Navitron and this is, frankly, useless.
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welshboy
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« Reply #23 on: December 22, 2010, 01:54:15 PM »

Hello and thanks again to you both;

what I intend doing is to connect a new wire from the empty '30' point three from the right into the empty '31' and '32' positions on the left of the bank.

OK?


That is what I would do.
As far as I can see your unit is the same as mine with the exception of missing Flow switch wiring. Effectively doing what you suggest is the same as what I have done with mine by shorting out the ends. You are doing it at source.

Best of luck and let us know how you get on.
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Iain
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« Reply #24 on: December 22, 2010, 05:09:56 PM »

Hi

Quote
I have good flow from the well.
My own flow valve in the well line return works and cuts all power.
Could you connect your flow switch into the control (30-31 or 30-32) system instead of just cutting the power to the whole unit?

Iain
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rogermunns
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« Reply #25 on: December 22, 2010, 05:17:22 PM »

Iain, thanks for the suggestion. Certainly I could try that on one of the circuits, but then I would still have to short out the other circuit.

I reasoned that the well circuit was the more critical of the two, but as I've learnt a bit more I'm not so sure.

Is the heating circuit number 31?

Any responses to a source of a proper manual for the WRB series?
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welshboy
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« Reply #26 on: December 22, 2010, 05:21:36 PM »

Iain, thanks for the suggestion. Certainly I could try that on one of the circuits, but then I would still have to short out the other circuit.

I reasoned that the well circuit was the more critical of the two, but as I've learnt a bit more I'm not so sure.

Is the heating circuit number 31?

Any responses to a source of a proper manual for the WRB series?
Is the heating circuit number 31?  yes
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rogermunns
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« Reply #27 on: December 22, 2010, 05:29:00 PM »

Hi

We're getting there, if slowly..................

This time, 31 and 32 connected to 30.

Well water on.

Red light at top next to main switch on console.

Set to heat.

Switch main switch on. Green light.  Two or three relays, slight humming. But nothing else. Turned off after 45 sec or so.

No error messages.
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welshboy
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« Reply #28 on: December 22, 2010, 05:35:51 PM »

Ok
The sequence should be
Green light
House heating pump switches on
Tests for flow (Ok you have fooled it)
Well pump switches on( thats what the system thinks - ie it powers up 32)
Tests for flow(Ok you have fooled it)
Compressor starts up (bit of a Kick start noise)   - this seems to be missing

Try it a few times while I read the manual
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welshboy
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« Reply #29 on: December 22, 2010, 05:38:08 PM »

What is the ambient temperature and where is your unit ?
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