navitron
 
Renewable Energy and Sustainability Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Anyone wishing to register as a new member on the forum is strongly recommended to use a "proper" email address - following recent spam/hack attempts on the forum, all security is set to "high", and "disposable" email addresses like Gmail, Yahoo and Hotmail tend to be viewed with suspicion, and the application rejected if there is any doubt whatsoever
 
Recent Articles: Navitron Partners With Solax to Help Create A More Sustainable Future | Navitron Calls for Increased Carbon Footprint Reduction In Light of Earth Overshoot Day | A plea from The David School - Issue 18
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: help please! Just turned on WRB09 first time since buying it in 2005  (Read 10678 times)
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #30 on: December 22, 2010, 05:48:08 PM »

From the manual - Trouble shooting


* rogermunns4.JPG (49.65 KB, 960x1505 - viewed 229 times.)
Logged
rogermunns
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 144


« Reply #31 on: December 22, 2010, 06:03:01 PM »

Ambient temp in the basement (where the unit is situated) is 12deg.C.
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #32 on: December 22, 2010, 06:19:22 PM »

Ambient temp in the basement (where the unit is situated) is 12deg.C.
Ok not a low temperature problem.
You have no error messages and the system has not returned eo01 Heating flow switch or eo02 brine flow switch problems so it looks like you have fooled it.
I would check the compressor wiring/fuse as per trouble shooting manual
Logged
rogermunns
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 144


« Reply #33 on: December 22, 2010, 06:49:29 PM »

What is the ambient low temperature limit? I said 12deg. C. (my measurement)  but the console display says 10deg. C. See pics.

Inside the main unit I have a row of six red LEDs on and one orange LED on                        and a column of four green lights on and two green lights off (see pics).

One thing - with having my flowswitch cutting all power, then I am losing my time and date settings.

BTW I got the temperature monitors from eBay (from Singapore) at less than 1 each delivered. Each one comprises a stainless sensor about 5mm dia x 30mm long, with 40m of wire to a digital display unit. I bought 10 of them and if all put together the maximum spread on indicated temperature is 0,8deg. C.
So not particularly accurate, but then cheap and convenient. Max temperature display = 70deg. C.


* R0015926gimp.JPG (95.36 KB, 488x366 - viewed 229 times.)

* R0015927gimp.JPG (94.28 KB, 426x320 - viewed 264 times.)
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #34 on: December 22, 2010, 07:00:53 PM »

The default ambient temperature setting is 0.c  ie zero  and the range is from -9 to +9
Looks like you have it set out of range.
Suggest setting it at 0c and try it again
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #35 on: December 22, 2010, 07:11:13 PM »

Ah maybe a play on words.
Your display says 10c which is the temperature of the water in the heating side of the heat pump. When it starts working it will rise up slowly until it gets to the control parameter based on the 40c in the pic.
Logged
rogermunns
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 144


« Reply #36 on: December 22, 2010, 09:03:18 PM »

Welshboy;

I haven't consciously set ambient temperature at all.  I don't understand this. Surely ambient is ambient and will frequently be over plus  9deg.C, hopefully not below minus 9deg.C.
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #37 on: December 22, 2010, 09:25:56 PM »

You said "What is the ambient low temperature limit? I said 12deg. C. (my measurement)  but the console display says 10deg. C. See pics."

I misinterpreted that to mean you had set the ambient temperature limit system parameter to 12c.

Please ignore my previous comment.I realised afterwards there was a play on words.

There is an ambient Temperature parameter limit the system monitors which by default is set at 0c . The user can set it between -9 and+9.

The intention is to protect the unit and there is a little heater to heat up the compressor if the real ambient temperature falls below the parameter .
As you have not changed anything it is ok.
Your basement  temperature is12c and the ambient parameter is set at 0c so the heater does not come on and the system should work ok.
Logged
rogermunns
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 144


« Reply #38 on: December 22, 2010, 09:39:36 PM »

Just had another go. Same as before.

Is there a detector to prevent start-up if well flow is less than 30litres/min? Frankly I dunno what my flow rate is. Would there be an error message to show this? I assume this isn't linked with the flow switches, which are virtual in my case (and yours?!).

How quickly should the compressor start after switching on the console to green? Does the compressor start, then heating pump? If compressor won't start, does that then also lock out the heating circuit pump?

I have a fuse carrier on the left which is labelled 32A and it has a red light on it. I have never seen that light lit. I have undone the carrier and found a big fat 10A fuse in it. Fuse is good.
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #39 on: December 22, 2010, 09:51:42 PM »

Ok
The sequence should be
Green light
House heating pump switches on
Tests for flow (Ok you have fooled it)
Well pump switches on( thats what the system thinks - ie it powers up 32)
Tests for flow(Ok you have fooled it)
Compressor starts up (bit of a Kick start noise)   - this seems to be missing

There is no flow rate constraint-  Hmmm not strictly true- if the well flow rate was very low the heat exchanger would freeze up and the system would report an error state.

The compressor  kicks in after both pumps have gone through their testing ok.
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #40 on: December 22, 2010, 10:11:33 PM »

Just checked mine- There is no red light illuminated on the 32 fuse. when the system is running two red lights are on the timer/clock thing alongside.nothing when off.
Logged
ecogeorge
Guest
« Reply #41 on: December 22, 2010, 11:23:45 PM »

Have entered this thread at a late stage and not digested it all (how rude!) .
Can you confirm that any pumps are working especially the internal house heating pump ? - my house heating pump was stuck and needed freeing up when first turned on - fooled me for a while.
Will reread the thread and compare your display to mine.
rgds george.
Logged
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #42 on: December 23, 2010, 07:34:00 AM »

my house heating pump was stuck and needed freeing up when first turned on - fooled me for a while.

rgds george.
Yes so was mine stuck - it was your posting about it at the time which I remembered about to fix mine.
Glad you are joining this thread George.
Logged
Iain
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1718


« Reply #43 on: December 23, 2010, 08:15:24 AM »

Hi
I dont think it is anything to do with the problem, but how is your flow switch wired so that it cuts all the power?
I assume through a relay/contactor, or does it just cut power to the controller. I would still be tempted to wire it in as a propper flow switch to the control panel so that at least the controller is getting one proper input and doesn't just power down when there is a low flow or you switch the pump off. Electronics generally don't like being switched on/off by knocking the power on/off.
Iain
Logged

1.98kWp PV (11 x Sharp 180 and SB 2.5)
20 x 65mm Thermal and 180ltr unvented
Powervault 4Kw - G200 Lithium-Ion (LiFePO4)
9000ltr rainwater storage   Plymouth
welshboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 617


« Reply #44 on: December 23, 2010, 09:46:17 AM »

Your unit is slightly different to mine- The layout of the connectors is not the same.

On mine the 31 32 are shorted to a 30 which is Link on the wiring diagram.

Keram Technical said to use 30 link when wiring in a second timer so maybe there is a difference in the 30 connectors not readily apparent from the wiring diagram.

Maybe shorting 31 32 to a different 30 would work ( great if you can work out which one but it looks like you have chinese characters on your wiring diagram) so a bit of trial and error might do it.

There is no mistaking the compressor kicking in if you get that far.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
SMFAds for Free Forums
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!