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Author Topic: Two lard questions for Frotter  (Read 9615 times)
Ivan
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« on: February 06, 2011, 12:35:45 AM »

1) Filtering; I've seen your photo of the old sink used for filtering. Did you simply heat up the lard (to what temp?) and pour it into the sink/filter. What size filter did you use (5micron?). Did you have trouble with the lard cooling and solidifying in the filter, or does the hot lard behind keep the filter from blocking with freezing lard?


2)I'm intending to heat the tank (to 40C - or should it be higher?), then the lard will flow up some copper tube and into the peristaltic pump. I can heat the copper tube up to the pump and beyond the pump, but the pump itself and a few inches of pipe either side will be unheated. Do you think I'll have problems with lard solidifying in the pump/nearby pipework, or do you think I'll get away with it.

Thanks in anticipation....
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frotter
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2011, 05:00:39 PM »

Glad to be any help, old boy.....  Wink

The old sink i mostly used for decanting warm lard from buckets/tubs through a coarse mesh into cubie containers for ease of handling. Bit like a huge funnel really - very effective.
I find pretty much any Lard will run freely at around 50C. 40 may be a bit low in cold weather to warm up whatever filters/pipes etc you are using. I do not filter ANY Lard finer than 100 microns. I use size 2 bag filters. A 200 mic one inside a 100 lasts a pretty long time. If you try to filter too fine you will find cooling Lard gradually slooowwwing down to a stop! Only way round it is to have HOT Lard or some way of keeping everything warm. My long bags let the Lard through pretty quick so not usually any proplems with cooling even in COLD weather.
For pumping i use a solid state 12v Facet fuel pump through 8mm vinyl tube. The small pumps are better for lard, oddly! They do not block with bits and are easy to blow through if any Lard does set in them. Quickest method, though, is to remove hot cube from the Lardinator and pour it into a large jug (2litres or so) and dump it in batches through the filters. Keeps everything warm and results in least time spent.
The thing to really watch for is when you finish for the day, make sure ALL your Lard has run/dribbled out of all you kit while warm. Dont let it pool or collect anywhere... Some of it can set like cheese and take ages to shift next time..... bitter experience. Ahem.

Main thing here - go for at least 50C I reckon. No higher than 65-70 - or plastic will suffer.

Any good to ye?

 bike
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  HE WHO CONTROLS THE LARD - CONTROLS THE UNIVERSE!!   Its me, incidentally..
Ivan
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2011, 05:35:51 PM »

Very helpful.

I would like to express my sincere thanks to the honourable gentleman.
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frotter
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2011, 10:57:20 PM »

Heh! - job's a good 'un. Anything to keep Baby Jesus' sweet Lard a-flowin!

 bike
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  HE WHO CONTROLS THE LARD - CONTROLS THE UNIVERSE!!   Its me, incidentally..
Ivan
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2011, 11:00:30 PM »

I think my main problem with the cold veg oil is FFAs precipitating out, and causing the sludgy crud in the bottom, which blocks or slows the pump. I'm hoping/guessing that with the lard at a good temperature the crud will all but disappear with the FFAs remaining in solution (I was planning on 40C, but now the lard's prophet has spoken, I've realised the error of my ways and will be aiming for 50C).
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frotter
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2011, 01:21:04 AM »

Yep - it's ALL runny over 50C. Except the chips.
Mmmm, chips......

 bike
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  HE WHO CONTROLS THE LARD - CONTROLS THE UNIVERSE!!   Its me, incidentally..
knighty
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2011, 01:48:51 AM »

Ivan, how are you heating, electrically or hot water ?

if you're using water... you could use an old central heating tank.... chop the top off and turn it upside down... with the filter bags hanging inside the tank...

that way you could leave the cans sitting on the top (upside down) in the upside down bit of tank you cut off.... as the fat melted it would rain down into the tank and through the filters ?
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Ivan
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2011, 01:57:51 AM »

I haven't really thought about how to heat it yet. For a quick experiment, I could use a couple of Navitron solar tubes when the sun is shining. The 58mm tubes will take around 2.2litres, although it will be messy spooning the gunk into them. The solid oil I have looks very clean, so it may not actually need filtering at all. Frotter was running it in a diesel engine, whereas I will soon be running it through nothing less than a 10mm pipe (I'm upsizing so that I've got a bit more metal to tie the trace heater wire onto.
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Tombo
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« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2011, 05:20:19 AM »

I'd just like to echo the lard lords words on cleanliness. Any lard dribbles on containers will encourage rats and mice to come and lick it off. It seems they love to lick lard. Now this would be great if they just came along every night and cleaned up after you like lard eating wombles, however, they don't stop at licking they start to nibble the containers to get at the good lard inside.  I have been extremely careful but still loose a 25 litre drum a year to rodents, I think they can smell what's inside even when sealed.  Mind you, they picked a recycled ethanol / glycernine mix container just before Christmas last year and I think they might have all died from alcohol poisoning.
A friend lost an entire IBC of WVO into the back of his van as a result of mice a few years ago. They went through the side of the tap.
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frotter
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« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2011, 04:39:54 PM »

Tis all too true! The local rodentry chew large holes through plastic. They dont just keep coming back to the same exposed Lard either, they will chew into as many containers as they feel like. I am currently melting/draining about 10 holed cubies I have been ignoring for ages. Very messy.
Resident (supposed) mouser Coughing Bob cant be @rsed to go out at all these days. Blimmin' useless!
*Note to self* -  buy many feral cats....
Once yer Lard is hot, handling/pumping it etc is fine as long as you dont hang about and let it cool much. If you get spills (IF - lol!) a cheap way to soak it up/stop it running everywhere is to have a bucket of fine (building) sand to hand. You need to leave it open in the bucket for a while to really dry out. Just scoop enough onto the spill to clog it up and wait for it to cool. Once cold it will come up nicely on a flat paint scraper.

 bike

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  HE WHO CONTROLS THE LARD - CONTROLS THE UNIVERSE!!   Its me, incidentally..
Billy
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« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2011, 05:07:08 PM »

Your Lardship,   genuflect

Brown paper and an iron, oh no that's for candle wax.   facepalm   Grin

Coughing Bob says bu$$er the rats, I'll just stick wit lard like.

billy

 Grin

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Ivan
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« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2011, 02:42:41 AM »

Thanks for the warning about rats. When it was cold and snowy, it was too cold to look for my funnel so I just tipped the vegoil into the tank. It worked the first time, but not subsequently, so it did get a bit slippery underfoot. I guess the mouce population hang out there at night, now. I like the idea of poisoning the blighters with glycerine/methanol. They're welcome to eat that. Earlier this year, I discovered on emptying a bucket of biodiesel emulsion that I'd left to separate about 6months ago, that it's a great preservative for the unfortunate mouse that chooses to fall in.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2011, 10:42:52 AM »

Ivan those little plug in units (ultra high frequency units) are a good deterrant if not an absolute solution to hungry meeces (whom I hate to pieces) have you tried one in the vicinity at all, we periodically use a few after Harvest has destroyed homes & colder weather gives them reason to look for better shelter, knocks the problem down massively, we have maybe one mouse per year.

 ..Don't ask about the invasion before that (bloody cr@p double glazers) ..around 40 inside  Lips Sealed
if you can stick a pencil through a hole a mouse can get through it!
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clivejo
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« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2011, 04:26:16 PM »

Maybe I'm being totally stupid here but shouldn't the purpose of the exercise be to remove the lard from the veggie oil?  Isn't lard animal fat that comes from the food being fried, which then sticks to the inside of the pipes and clog everything up?

I know when we used veggie oil from the local chippers to run the Lister CS Diesel we used the engine heat to warm the veggie oil and then let it settle in a big plastic tanks.  One was being used while the other settled.  The lard tended to float to the top and could be scraped off and the frying particles sank to the bottom.  Saw dust can be used to soak up veggie oil and is great as a fire boost but you need to use plenty of saw dust so it dont start sticking together.

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spaces
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« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2011, 04:39:59 PM »

Lots of energy in lard if you can make your engine run on it. Remember reading a post on an American forum years ago by a guy who had cut a hole in the top of his Mercedes' fuel tank and was shovelling lard into it with a spade. Coolant heated the fuel tank and after a few miles of motoring he switched the switch and ran very successfuly on lard. There was even a plastic surgeon who made biodiesel from the human fat he 'recovered', but think he was prosecuted for that.  facepalm
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