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Author Topic: heating for a shed home  (Read 5674 times)
Lincsoldbird
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« on: January 19, 2013, 10:40:52 PM »

Hi having lived in a static for 6 year we have decided to move in to a shed we have. the shed is 16m by8m. I have made a bolt hole in the back 9m by 8m with stud wall and 200mm rockwool insulation and a false ceiling 2.4m with 300mm rockwool. We have three small southfacing windows. The floor is 100mm uninsulated slab.
So what do we do for heating?. Hopfully this is only short term IE 5 years so cost is Paramount.
We need 24 heating for how 2dogs and 4 cats, we are out from 10 till 3 each day.
So what do you surge st.
I,m very good at making good and there will be no building inspectors.
We have Good supply off wood and waste oil, and I can make most things.
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2013, 10:46:17 PM »

surely the sedore would suit? load and leave it?
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Lincsoldbird
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« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2013, 10:51:24 PM »

Wont heat the bedroom or bathroom with out the cats and dogs trashing the place. Put a sedore in like the caravan one , far to warm even on the low setting ,to much insulation.
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2013, 11:13:54 PM »

scale it down with water jacket and rad in the separate rooms?
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biff
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« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2013, 01:55:55 AM »

You can layer tthe floor with quinntherm or kingspan,
                      Chuck down 1200 gauge vusqueen,then two runs of 50mm,Break the bond so that the upper sheets cover the joints below.Then chuck down stirling board directly on top of the kingspan,joint the stirling board together with zinc plate and screwed through the sterling thrn througth the zinc plates every 600mm.
  This will provide you with a nice warm dry floor untill you get your building finished,then you can lift the lot and reuese both the sheets and the quintherm or kingspan in your new house.
                         Biff
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Lincsoldbird
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« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2013, 12:17:28 PM »

I do seem to be losing a lot through the floor, but the cost off the celatex and sterling board comes to about 600 and this project is on a shoe string.
Also I,m keeping it as a guest flat so no chance to reuse.

I had the idea to build a small masonry heater, which I could fire twice a day with some water heating to a thermal store. There is a design of a stove built out of concrete slabs which a chap in Scotland as had working for 5 years. They also seem safer than a WBS with animals

I have a 200lt stainless tank which should store 10kw I think. Would that be enough for the bedroom and bath room. 19sqm in total? If so how would I connect it to the rads. Hot water is taken care of by off peak electricity by a mains pressure thermal store 200lts so don,t need to worry about that.

Hoping for some good advice.

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Lincsoldbird
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« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2013, 10:53:06 PM »

Can no one give me some advice please.
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jotec
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« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2013, 11:54:06 PM »

Might not be suitable but our background heating, 4+ rads, is done with a lister cs that also generated our electric. Runs 24/7 ATM while it is cold.
Dick
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Aiming to reduce dependency on 'mains energy'. Own bio for 40k miles, solar water heating (DIY),  CHP done blog at http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm (not always up to date!)
Lincsoldbird
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2013, 09:46:52 PM »

How about something like this,
http://www.firespeaking.com/media/articles/the-cabin-stove/

Seems to heat water for small thermal store, space heating and cheap to construct.

Any one built anything like it?
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biff
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« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2013, 10:14:12 PM »

That looks like an exellent idea,
                                  There would be nothing to stop you from sticking in a secondhand boiler (a wrap around) and work your way round that.
                     You might have to fan assist the draw to get it started after the bypass has been shut down but it would certainly work.
                   You will need firebrick coming up above the boiler or all firebrick if you do not use a wrap around.
      You will not be able to seal it properly unless you use two skins,You can place a zinc heat deflector between the skins overlapping round the corners, you can also use an enclosed box like structure on top as opposed to a flat sheet.Anything you place in the box will cook faster and boil faster and the box like structure should keep it shape better.You will note the anvil in one of the pics,the anvil acts like a heat sink to a certain  degree and keeps the plate from buckling then it continues to release the heat after the fire has gone out.
                                                                               Biff
                                                 
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Greenbeast
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« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2013, 10:18:28 PM »

looks interesting
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alfie
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« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2013, 09:44:02 AM »

Hello,
  We also live in a shed 12mx6m  with rockwool insulation in walls,  it has a small bathroom in the back.
 we have a wooden floor which I insulated with the thickest underlay I could find (60 ebay) and a carpet (250) I then installed a morso Dove with back boiler 28mm copper gravity fed to boiler in B/room and 2x rads on walls pumped via temp sensor on pipes.    The stove gravity feeds the boiler until pipes get above 70c then pump kicks in and feeds rads been living there for 4 years now and toasty warm.
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derekmt
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« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2013, 10:08:26 AM »

cheapest solution I can think of is pallet board floor on pallet board battens fastened to the concrete.
dig a trench around the concrete base place insulation against sides of base back fill with gravel. ensure trench has free flowing drain.
if the shed is going to still have heated and unheated areas, cut the concreter and put in an insulating "expansion joint".
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Lincsoldbird
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2013, 08:12:03 PM »

Going to go for thermal underlay and laminate floor on top due to muddy dogs.

Not able to put much on the floors as the doorways are in.

The concrete slab sits inside the dwarf walls.

Also going for a batch burning boiler out side in a leanto with 1000l store feeding rads with thermostates so we have more control on the temp.

Just made a Jotul 602 type stove for back ground heating in the evening, will post some pics when fitted.
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