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Author Topic: Samil inverters rock!  (Read 44178 times)
ianh64
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« Reply #30 on: April 12, 2014, 08:16:02 AM »

You cannot easily do what you want. RS232 is serial and your router is ethernet network - completely different. There are some devices like globalitach that will convert rs232 to ethernet but that wont get around the processing of the serial data that i assume your PC is doing.

Hello.
After reading this I want connect my Samil 3680TL inverter to a spare RJ45 port on my router rather than USB on the PC.
Samil manual says, RS232 (DB9) pin2 RxD, pin3 TxD, and pin 5 Ground, but I am not clear what pins to connect to on the RJ45 Plug.
I have seen a few examples on the net but they are not all connected the same way, below is one example.

DB9 RJ45
2 RxD 3
3 TxD 2
5 Gnd 5

Does anyone know if this would work, if not any suggestions as to what pins on the RJ45 I should use?
I have read that if it's wrong it won't damage anything but simply won't work, anyone know if that's right?
Thanks a lot.
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clivejo
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« Reply #31 on: April 12, 2014, 03:35:41 PM »

Does anyone know if this would work, if not any suggestions as to what pins on the RJ45 I should use?
I have read that if it's wrong it won't damage anything but simply won't work, anyone know if that's right?
Thanks a lot.

It most definitely will not work.  They are two different technologies.  I realize that they both have Tx and Rx wires, but the way in which the data is transmitted is totally different.  You will need a convertor to process the signals and make sense of them before transmitting it as a "packet" of data on the Ethernet network.  You also need to know how the data is encoded via the RS232 port in order to make sense of it.  This encoding tends to be a trade secret and is built into the software they supply so you cant easily modify it or learn how it works.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2014, 03:37:56 PM by clivejo » Logged



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Eccentric Anomaly
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« Reply #32 on: April 12, 2014, 07:16:34 PM »

This encoding tends to be a trade secret and is built into the software they supply so you cant easily modify it or learn how it works.

Yes, this sort of thing is often, and regrettably, under documented. However, it's usually not really a trade secret as such. Rather manufacturers have little incentive to go to the effort of fully writing and publishing the documentation and also probably don't want to be tied to the protocol in future versions.

If they know the only software which is actually supported with the device is the stuff on the CD shipped with it they can make changes as they please, as long as the change in firmware and software is properly synchronized in manufacturing, whereas if there are third party packages which also talk to the device they'll need to maintain backwards compatibility and even test with those packages. Maybe they don't actually legally have to but from the customer satisfaction point of view it's wise.

it's not impossible that if you ask they'll tell you what the protocol is, probably with the caveat that it only applies to current versions of the firmware.
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bp1000
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« Reply #33 on: May 19, 2015, 11:17:47 AM »

Hi all

Just had my solar pv array installed with one of these inverters, 4000TL-D.

I just wondered how accurate the readings were from each string. I vaguely recall someone getting odd readings which turned out to be off when tested manually.

I don't know anything about solar pv. My observation is, my 2 strings are putting out near identical voltages around 255v and usually within 1v of each other. My grid voltage is 244v but my wattage differs between the 2 strings. 1 is always 50-100 watts higher e.g. 1000watts on 1 and 900watts on 2.

My roof is south facing, almost bang on and no shading. This 100 watt drop on string 2 happens every time i check the display. The solar array is simple, same roof, same direction and tilt and simply 2 grids of 8 with a gap in the middle. So technically they should put out exactly the same watts?

thanks

p.s. the confusing thing is, my panels are rated to 30.4v max so x 8 i should not be getting more than 243.2v on a string? But its constantly at 255v ish.



« Last Edit: May 19, 2015, 11:23:02 AM by bp1000 » Logged
Iain
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« Reply #34 on: May 19, 2015, 11:22:37 AM »

Hi
You could always swap the 2 strings over where they plug into the inverter(if you are happy / competent to do so, or get the installer to do so)and see if the difference changes over. Then you will see if it is the string or the inverter with the difference.

Iain
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bp1000
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« Reply #35 on: May 19, 2015, 11:27:04 AM »

Hi
thanks Iain

From memory i don think the installer left enough "slack" to cross the cable over between the inverter and the isolator. But i will check when i get home as i know they are literally right next to each other!

Thanks for the suggestion as this will rule out a problem with the panels.

Do you know if i need to perform a specific shut down procedure and any startup tests if i do this?

thanks
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Iain
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« Reply #36 on: May 19, 2015, 04:52:35 PM »

Hi
Isolate the AC first then the DC. Swap the DC wires over. Switch on DC then switch on AC.
It will then boot up, do its tests and then start generating.
Iain
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bp1000
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« Reply #37 on: May 20, 2015, 12:05:35 PM »

looks like this may be a samil reporting error.

I found a thread on another forum with exactly the same issue and at least 2 contributors with the same problem. http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/photovoltaic-solar-panels-forum/81134-0-5a-difference-between-2-identical.html

People are either claiming

Theory 1: String 1 over-reads (the OP did a test and concluded the generation meter backed up this theory)

Theory 2: Samil is cheap and the second string is not as efficient as the first / or not as good... something along those lines.

People also tried swapping the strings around but produced the same readings.


On an unrelated note, the unit is reporting 4.2kW peak occasionally, its saying this is pumping 18.4amps onto the AC side. Above we have identified that the unit potentially gives slightly inaccurate readings. However it got me thinking, not knowing enough about electrical work, my solar install is on its own circuit into a mini RCD unit. 1 breaker is 32amp for my car charge point and the other is a 16amp breaker for solar.

Is this an issue? I may be peaking around 16amp and the unit is reporting over 18amp. Whilst it is very peaky in this weather, in hot warm stable wether could i potentially trip this? Does it make a difference if my car is charging at a full 32amp too and solar is near its limit will this be an issue?

 
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GavinA
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« Reply #38 on: May 21, 2015, 07:51:20 PM »

it's an issue as you have a none compliant inverter set up unless you have permission to generate more then 16amps. I'd also wonder if it's set to G83/2 protection settings or not.
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bp1000
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« Reply #39 on: May 21, 2015, 10:22:48 PM »

it's an issue as you have a none compliant inverter set up unless you have permission to generate more then 16amps. I'd also wonder if it's set to G83/2 protection settings or not.

I think its ok. The peak of 4.2kW was read in realtime from the inverter. If we look at the 15 min interval averages the inverter does indeed look like it is limiting.



and



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M
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« Reply #40 on: May 22, 2015, 07:05:45 AM »

it's an issue as you have a none compliant inverter set up unless you have permission to generate more then 16amps. I'd also wonder if it's set to G83/2 protection settings or not.

I think its ok. The peak of 4.2kW was read in realtime from the inverter. If we look at the 15 min interval averages the inverter does indeed look like it is limiting.

Hiya Ben. This is an issue for the PV guys like Gavin, but the fact you are seeing spikes over 4kW, probably suggests the inverter cap hasn't been set. The 15min readings will look OK as temperature will pull performance down to 90% after a few seconds to a minute, although I must admit that this last week I've been seeing my 3.58kWp ESE holding 3.65kW for nearly 2 mins, which is unusual, but the air temp outside is a little low for May, and the breeze has been quite strong too.

So (allowing me some wiggle room) your 4kWp system will probably only average about 3.6kW over a sustained period, such as 15 mins, even without a cap, but if uncapped, could show short term spikes of 100%+ during sun and cloud periods.

Mart.
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GavinA
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« Reply #41 on: May 23, 2015, 11:41:43 PM »

looks like it's limiting at 16amps, not 3.68kW.

It's a bit complex but the the limit's 16amps at the nominal grid voltage of 230V, so 3.68kW. If the manufacturers restrict it to 16amps then at higher grid voltages it will allow for higher wattage output.
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bp1000
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« Reply #42 on: May 24, 2015, 05:28:06 PM »

Thanks Mart and Gavin

I noticed today my grid amps was averaging 19amps for 15 mins this afternoon after the rain and cloud, that was 4661 watts. Every other time it always seems to be undertake 3.7kWh limit.

So i'm still confused if i have a problem with capping or not.

Also my solar PV is connected to a 16amp breaker. This was the source of my original concern. The manual said 20amp breaker so if its going to put out 19amps i don't want it tripping. Will/could it trip? Can you swap the breaker for a 20amp one? The only other breaker in the mini box is a 32amp one connected to my garage car charge point. I hope the two don't interfere with each other.

  
« Last Edit: May 24, 2015, 05:29:50 PM by bp1000 » Logged
baker
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« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2016, 05:24:15 PM »

higher level of dc  to the grid Huh   
baker
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