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Author Topic: Rainwater harvesting pump burnt out.  (Read 4870 times)
Andy_WSM
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« on: March 07, 2014, 11:16:16 AM »

My cheap Chinese import pump has finally given up after about 6 years service. Settled on one of these as a replacement, comes complete with expansion vessel and all stainless steel: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9ZBY/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

Anyone used one of these before? Are they ok? How long have you used it for?
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North Somerset. 3.92KWp SE facing PV system.

paul149
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« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2014, 01:30:42 PM »

is it self-priming? (can see bung in pump casing) and would this be a problem for andy if it was'nt?

Cheers paul m.
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3.5 kWp (14 x Sanyo H250E01 + SB3000TL) 225' (SW) at 35' Pitch Lat 51.30' (Bristol) Installed cost 2.63/Wp (Nov 2011) now with solarimmersion and 250L unvented dhw (Almost Zero gas input for DHW from Apr to mid Sep)
todthedog
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« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2014, 01:59:53 PM »

Used bricodepot (B&Q) type for 6 years also stainless body. Our one needs priming, so when installing bare that in mind and make it easy for yourself fingers crossed!
The only problem was  the internal bladder loosing pressure over time resulting in the pump hunting. A quick blast of air from a compressor sorted the problem. If this occurs switch off pump, open tap attach air hose and reinflate to correct pressure. Bobs your uncle.
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Andy_WSM
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« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2014, 03:25:17 PM »

is it self-priming? (can see bung in pump casing) and would this be a problem for andy if it was'nt?

Cheers paul m.

Good point Paul. My existing one isn't self priming, but I've only had to prime it the once, 6 years ago! As long as you fit a "foot valve" on the pipe in the tank you pick up from the water doesn't run back out of the pump / pipe when it stops.
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Andy_WSM
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« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2014, 03:26:04 PM »

Used bricodepot (B&Q) type for 6 years also stainless body. Our one needs priming, so when installing bare that in mind and make it easy for yourself fingers crossed!
The only problem was  the internal bladder loosing pressure over time resulting in the pump hunting. A quick blast of air from a compressor sorted the problem. If this occurs switch off pump, open tap attach air hose and reinflate to correct pressure. Bobs your uncle.

Good to know and thanks for the info Smiley
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sb79
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« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2014, 10:57:31 AM »

I have seen the draper ones, they'll do a job but i'd not expect them to last more than about five years or so looking at the quality of the components. I've no idea who makes them, obviously they are a renamed item from elsewhere and like the Clarke ones the price is low enough to make me think that i'd not want to use them. But I get to supply pumpsets occasionally as part of my work so it is a bit of a different scenario. 
I tend to go for dab aquajet. You can get cast or stainless versions, the pressure vessels and pressure switches are standard items easily obtained at a reasonable price and a number of properties I do work for have ones which have lasted 20 years +.
For a whole house booster running an unvented cylinder etc the grundfos mq are the kiddy to use.

Regardless of what you go for, make sure you keep an eye on the pressure in the vessel and remember that to check or top up the pressure the system must not be under pressure at the time. Turn off the power, open taps then test/top up.

Steve.
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daserra
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« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2014, 12:30:41 PM »

Seconded regarding Dab pumps. Dab pumps are excellent value for money. My borehole pump is a Dab; it's been down 14 years without a hitch. I also fit them for clients and I've never had any trouble with them, just the pressurestats and pressure vessels.
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Rammed earth/ytong PassivFrankenHaus.
In the hills in Southern Portugal.
Borehole, on-grid.
Home made pool solar.
Andy_WSM
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« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2014, 06:01:56 AM »

The DABs look great, but at twice the price I'd expect them to be lasting twice as long.

Capital cost is a huge issue for me as I've had no income since losing my job through sickness last November. Money is fast depleting, so while it may be a long term, false economy to save 200 or so now, spending more isn't something I'd be able to do easily right now sadly.
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Andy_WSM
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« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2014, 04:44:42 PM »

The pump arrived this morning and other than having to change the 1" male connectors to 1" female connectors it was a straight forward swap.

Had a bit of trouble with a plastic one way valve they supplied to go on the Input, in that no matter what I did with it, it wouldn't seal against the stainless steel thread. I used PTFE tape, tried fashioning a rubber washer, then in the end put several layers of PVC insulation tape onto the thread and tightened on to that, which has done the trick. It's output is running about 1 bar higher than the old pump so I'll have to watch where the shower head is pointing Shocked
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daserra
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2014, 06:36:47 PM »

Sounds about right, now just don't move it or that connecter will pop off and give you an unwanted hose down. Don't ask how I know this  wackoold
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Rammed earth/ytong PassivFrankenHaus.
In the hills in Southern Portugal.
Borehole, on-grid.
Home made pool solar.
Andy_WSM
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2014, 06:40:10 PM »

Sounds about right, now just don't move it or that connecter will pop off and give you an unwanted hose down. Don't ask how I know this  wackoold

Oh Lord! It's installed on a shelf in the loft. The last thing I need is a pipe popping up there!

I've checked it for leaks since and all dry. Will keep an eye on it over the next couple of days.

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daserra
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2014, 07:24:11 PM »

Might be worth having a quick check it  doesn't jump about too much when it energises. Didn't mean to worry you, it'll probably be fine.
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Rammed earth/ytong PassivFrankenHaus.
In the hills in Southern Portugal.
Borehole, on-grid.
Home made pool solar.
Andy_WSM
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« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2014, 08:19:40 AM »

Might be worth having a quick check it  doesn't jump about too much when it energises. Didn't mean to worry you, it'll probably be fine.

I'm not worried, I've just spent more time in the loft over the last day than the living room :p

Pump seems to be fine. I made a wooden shelf in the loft and bolted the pump onto that. The pipework that connect to the pump is 22mm Plastic one side and 15mm the other, so lots of room for movement. So far it seems ok...

The expansion tank on this one does a good job of stopping the pump from cycling, unlike my last pump. You can flush the loo several times before the pump needs to run, whereas the old pump would run EVERY time the loo was flushed.
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Andy_WSM
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« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2014, 07:16:32 PM »

Had to adjust the pressure switch as 3.5bar was too powerful and led to wasted water from fast flowing taps / shower. Tweaked it down to 2.5bar now and it's a lot better.
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daserra
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« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2014, 07:30:28 PM »

I like domestic water at 2.5 bar. Under 2 and you really notice lower flow and above 3 the pump will stay on for ages to reach that last little bit of pressure. I normally run a pump at 2.5-3 bar with an oversized pressure vessel (as the hysterisis is lower than normal to stop excessive hunting) and the PRV it down to 2-2.5bar so that showers don't change temp when someone opens a tap.
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Rammed earth/ytong PassivFrankenHaus.
In the hills in Southern Portugal.
Borehole, on-grid.
Home made pool solar.
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