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Author Topic: Inline heater syphon not working?  (Read 4257 times)
Iain
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« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2014, 10:28:34 PM »

Hi

Quote
I didn't buy a genuine Willis but  got a similar heater from a company call ThermcoUK who are only a few miles away from me but it didn't come with any instructions.

Have you tried contacting ThermcoUK for instructions. They list it for the application, same as the Willis. So should have some recommended method of fitting.
Iain
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RussJ
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« Reply #16 on: October 09, 2014, 11:09:04 AM »

Tried to phone Thermco but phone constantly engaged . Have now sent them an email.
I also found this on a trade plumbing forum:

"Most of these Willis heaters use a standard 11" element which is 3kw. The savings is the ability to have small amounts water heated very hot, although it will heat the whole cylinder if wanted. They will heat very rapid, if piped right.
The drawing Tamz shows, while correct, is not the normal way most are piped. Normally the flow is joined to the cylinder vent ABOVE the draw off to taps. Simpler to pipe & works usually okay. Important that this pipe joins to vent preferably at least 2 or 3 feet above the top of cylinder, if you just joined at draw off, it will not circulate well & heater stat would cut off a lot.
I haven't a clue why they are not in rest of UK.

Edit:- just noticed on drawing that an Essex flange is used at bottom of cylinder. Esssexs are a disaster IMO, especially on a Willis, as if the heater gets a knock, so does the Esssex which will leak easily. Better using drain tapping & adding a draincock to pipe."

This guy is a plumber in Northern Ireland, where the Willis is very common.
I'm still reasonably confident that my set up will work OK once I have replaced the flexi.
Away this weekend so will attack it next week...
Russ
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clivejo
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« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2014, 12:41:19 PM »

Yup, Willis heaters are very common here, I'm not sure why.  But because they are common, there are a LOT of scare stories about them catching fire!  Make sure you have all the protection you can on the electrical end of things and only use the built in thermostat as an emergency cut out not for normal operation.  Also, usage of a Willis heater results in very high temperatures on the DHW draw.  It would be advisable to install mixer valves for safety (especially if you have a family!!). 
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DISCLAIMER : Iím not responsible for anythingÖ for anything I say or do. Cos Iím a proud member of clan Eejit who once ruled Ireland.
RussJ
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« Reply #18 on: October 13, 2014, 04:17:13 PM »

I thought I'd report back and let you know how I got on...
Today I removed the 15mm flexi and replaced it with copper plus a "full bore" isolation valve.
Took a bit of faffing about to get the angles right and fix a couple of small leaks but is now watertight.
So I now have a genuine 15mm from tank to heater.
I decided to leave the top connection as it is for the time being and see how things go.

Not a chance of testing it via the PV as its been pi**ing down all day but I ran it on a 15min mains boost and it didn't cut out at all.
Looks like the problem is solved. extrahappy

Again, many thanks to all for your suggestions and comments.

Russ

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clivejo
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« Reply #19 on: October 13, 2014, 04:47:43 PM »

Looks like the problem is solved. extrahappy

Awww drats! My evil plan has failed!!  I was gearing up to sell you a 150 litre water heater with 2 x 3kW immersions in it   hysteria
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DISCLAIMER : Iím not responsible for anythingÖ for anything I say or do. Cos Iím a proud member of clan Eejit who once ruled Ireland.
RussJ
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« Reply #20 on: May 08, 2018, 05:03:14 PM »

I'm resurrecting an old post of mine as I need some more advice please and there are pictures here of my handywork!
My system has been working fine but I am  finding that on a sunny day the hot water is very hot but there ain't much of it...
The iBoost switches off well before the tank is fully heated so lots of my generation is "wasted".
Reading up it seems that stratification is occurring so that the top of the tank is 75C or a bit more and the bottom is cool.
I need to install a small 12v  pump to circulate the water so I get a full tank of hot water.
I thought of putting the pump in the lower copper pipe and forcing water through the Willis heater and controlling the pump via a standard tankstat fitted at the top of the tank.
As the water gets too hot it will switch on the pump and then the temperature should fall switching the pump off. As it heats up again the pump will be triggered and the cycle repeats.
I'm no heating engineer (as you probably can guess) but would this work?
Any better solutions please?
Russ
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clivejo
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« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2019, 02:44:33 PM »

How high is the Willis heater compared to the DHW cylinder?  They need to be be installed lower to be able to heat more of the DWH tank.
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DISCLAIMER : Iím not responsible for anythingÖ for anything I say or do. Cos Iím a proud member of clan Eejit who once ruled Ireland.
biff
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« Reply #22 on: February 10, 2019, 03:12:00 PM »

Hello Clive,
         Welcome home, You will have to pay me a visit while we still can get about, Grin.
                                         Biff
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An unpaid Navitron volunteer,who has been living off-grid,powered by wind and solar,each year better than the last one.
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