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Author Topic: POE LED lighting  (Read 2800 times)
Countrypaul
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« on: June 14, 2015, 07:06:44 PM »

I have been looking at various lighting systems such as DALI and DMX as swmbo wants to have various preprogrammed and adjustable lighting schemes for various rooms in our new house.  Both DALI and DMX seem huge overkill for a domestic setting, but running LEDs using POE looks much more promising to me at least. We will have an ethernet cabling system anyway, so wiring the lights using ethernet rather than conventional twin and earth seems a step forward. There seems to be relatively little information on this at present, has anyone here implemented a POE LED system, even for a single room? Any other comments about it as a concept? I am slightly concerned that we may end up at the bleeding edge of technology if we go this route.
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rogeriko
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« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2015, 07:10:28 PM »

I dont know how you expect to get any power down ethernet cable its only for data and definately not rated for high voltages. You will need twin and earth to supply the controller.
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TheFairway
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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2015, 07:26:30 PM »

PoE is approx 44v and max 12-25W. Its very useful for remotely siting network equipment without having to separately power it.

Never heard of using PoE for anything else though.
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Countrypaul
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« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2015, 09:10:26 PM »

Obviously I am much more at the cutting edge than I thought. POE allows either 13W, 25W or more recently 60W over a standard Cat5/6 cable enough to power multiple LEDs without any problems at all. This LED lighting over POE seems to be taking off in the USA much more than over here at present, and as you might expect is mainly focussed on office senarios at present. There are several big manufacturers getting involved like Philips, but the supply of actual light fittings seems minimal at present as far as I can see.
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snyggapa
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« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2015, 10:37:56 PM »

I did a whole house lighting system using DMX and controlled by an arduino. Wouldn't use Cat5/6 for the lighting though as I don't think that it can handle the current

I had a central 12V psus wired into some cheapie DMX 4 channel controllers - the wire to the fittings was normal 1.5mm T&E so rated for 12V at reasonably current

The light switches themselves I could do over cat5 but didn't since that is only 5V at milliamps to short an arduino control pin to ground - so the arduino monitors the "swicthes" and then sets the appropriate DMX channels to whatever it is programmed to do

Happy to provide more details if you are interested

-Steve
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nominous
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« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2015, 01:21:39 PM »

PoE up to Class 3 is 15.4W Class 4 will give you25W. After that, it gets a bit non standard.

I know of companies that sell PoE lighting, and in the security market there are PoE IR illuminators.
IMHO, true PoE for this is overkill.
The cost of the switches over class 3 is prohibitive for the home user. Mid span power injectors are few and far between and tend to be pricey themselves.
The dumb back to back RJ45's with a dumb PoE injector on the spare pairs is an easy solution.

Using CAT to supply power and some sort of control system however, different story.
I would go the route of DMX, using CAT5 for the data and power.
Depending on your choice of LED's also running higher than 12V due to current/distance and also LED requirements.


My plan for my house would be to reuse the existing light fittings and mains wiring.
Either:
1) central PSU and reuse mains wiring to distribute the power
2) PSU per fitting/room.

Option 2 has more flexibility and cheaper PSU's.
Existing light switches would become bypass controllers talking back to the DMX server.
Probably using 1wire devices, so would also be able to provide dimming, multi zone control and temp sensing from the switch area.
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jonesy
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« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2015, 01:41:10 PM »

Here in France, it is common to fit at least one junction box per floor, with all switches and lights back to that point. The box is either in the ceiling or above a door.  It sounds awful, but I have to search them out - you don't see them.   I'd suggest you do something similar, or position your controllers somewhere readily accessible, say in a cupboard.  Nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot if you need to roll back carpets or play in the fibre glass.  Cable is cheap!
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RIT
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« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2015, 09:08:27 PM »

For long term home use I would guess that the latest USB standard maybe a better fit as it supports 100W  (20v @ 5A). So your LED light power socket also becomes a charging point for any gadget. Its not going to provide a data path, but in a WiFi enabled home that is not much of a problem.
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