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Author Topic: Grid Hopping  (Read 58729 times)
Scruff
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« Reply #270 on: September 11, 2018, 09:44:05 PM »

Works for androids too. smapple...  whistlie
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Scruff
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« Reply #271 on: December 28, 2018, 12:07:56 PM »

That deployable system got deployed.



and upgraded

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Scruff
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« Reply #272 on: December 28, 2018, 12:17:17 PM »

The bumblebee is now sporting a pewter power products 120A B2B.






Bittova rip off this unit

500 for this shyte?



soo cheap and nasty inside.. vomit2

TK electrolytics...some of the worst, no silastic just hot snot, super-glued/epoxy semi-conductors, underwired ground, came with a preinstalled rattle from factory, zero cable stress relief, cheap noisey fans..

We'll see how she performs onna road test, I'm not expecting a lot...

This is what it's got to beat..




In other news after 4 months calibration, my smartgauge is almost as accurate as my Ah counter







« Last Edit: December 28, 2018, 12:34:27 PM by Scruff » Logged
camillitech
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« Reply #273 on: December 28, 2018, 12:17:53 PM »

I do love 'crinkly tin'  genuflect
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http://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/

'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 4.75kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
Scruff
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« Reply #274 on: December 28, 2018, 12:22:27 PM »

Got my hallmark all over it Paul, cheap, abundant, available at the time and good enuf fer the girls I go out with.
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Scruff
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« Reply #275 on: December 28, 2018, 12:29:05 PM »

O course I only paid 50 + shipping fer that Sterling job becoze I know better.

Last owner said it was broken..."doesn't finish charging"

Most people I know don't drive for as long as a 3 stage charger operates for...

Tested



working



...still janky

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Scruff
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« Reply #276 on: January 30, 2019, 10:34:04 PM »

Well..err...slight delay...

I fried that B2B installing it live.  facepalm




After some R&R she's come right again.






I've only replaced the 8 dead FETs (including the washers) outtov a 14 FET bank, 6 lived I decided not to fix it until it's broken..

Jonesy serz I should fix it better... fight  whistlie



looks like a trap...smells like a trap...ain't broken right now...




Commencing Testing!
« Last Edit: January 30, 2019, 10:38:42 PM by Scruff » Logged
jonesy
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« Reply #277 on: February 11, 2019, 09:03:07 AM »

After some R&R she's come right again.
Rogering and Re-engineering
Jonesy serz I should fix it better... fight  whistlie
Clever bloke that Jonesy. You should probably listen to him a bit more.  Grin
Nice looking repair given the space you were working in. Looks like the company bought a job lot of tiny cases then decided to put something really complicated inside.
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1.1kWp PV & SB1700. 7kW log burner.
Scruff
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« Reply #278 on: February 13, 2019, 12:08:01 PM »

Clever bloke that Jonesy.

So clever I think it slows him down sometimes.... whistlie

I did listen a little, some minor rework to vanquish dry joints and I even preheated the board (heat sinks) in a cold workshop  snow





put something really complicated inside.

They're purported to be the dogs danglies in terms of spilt charge and essential for Euro 5 & Euro 6 regen alternator braking vessels.
I don't think it can beat a dedicated alternator. It definitely can't beat linked twins.

It was built as cheaply as possible, it performs admirably but who knows for how long with those sketchy electrolytics (they use CapXon (joint worst brand) in their ProCharge Ultras).

My theory seems correct.
Most of the increased performance claimed from fitting a battery to battery charger is due to the cabling upgrade required to support it.
This alone nets 5>7 times an increase in split charge current over a proper contactor.



The Battery to Battery Charger is effectively double the best I can do (without destroying serpentine belts) thanks to it's 14.8V+ volt output regulation and it's more aggressive absorption profile.
The thing is an Albright SW80 (magnetic latching) costs peanuts compared to a 120A DC - DC Charger.








If I could live with a 50A "current limit" and I wanted a posh wan, I'd get a REDDARC BCDC1250

Funny thing about this 120A unit is I can't seem to get more than ~80A Continuous outtov it.. Huh It flashes higher on startup....maybe they're hiding under the 50% SOC belt or maybe they got lost somewhere. I've derated the box to 1200W continuous because the rest of my power plant is 100% duty capable and I didn't have any Special Snowflake Awards left after that last batch of Victrons swept through the place. 120A is the input rating..  Kiss


I'm pretty satisfied with the SmartGauge testing that it's ~100% accurate but displays 10% below reality consistently for whatever reason Merlin had which is probably why Gibbo is such a grump. I feel cheated too..

I have a second SmartGauge..if I get really bored I'll swap them to verify the theory.
The upshot is my Ah counter takes about 10 days to drift to the inaccuracy of the SmartGauge after which SmartGauge and tail current are the more accurate indicators.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2019, 06:56:41 PM by Scruff » Logged
jonesy
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« Reply #279 on: March 08, 2019, 03:35:13 PM »

They're purported to be the dogs danglies in terms of spilt charge and essential for Euro 5 & Euro 6 regen alternator braking vessels.
I don't think it can beat a dedicated alternator. It definitely can't beat linked twins.
It may provide good charging, but at what cost?  If you assume it's 70% efficient stepping up the battery voltage, that means the input current is ~50% more (I think)
That makes a (2nd) alternator direct to battery a better bet as it will have less mechanical load on the belt for the same charge power via the B2B
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Scruff
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« Reply #280 on: March 08, 2019, 04:06:53 PM »

Definitely agree! No piece of smanchy leckytronics can beat a dedicated alternator. Add an alternator, lose the B2B same result half the price....parallel them for double the power.

I seriously doubt it's <80% efficient. I reckon it's a marketing figure attained by combining the inrush surge and outright spoofing. Who cares what the input current is? If I buy a 45A solar controller I expect the output to be 45A.

The whole point of the exercise from my point of view is to demonstrate how easily people are taken for a ride in this market. There is zero data on this product except what I've published, Sterling won't publish it themselves. Yet everyone raves about their products which are clearly not built for reliability. In fact if you don't claim a warranty replacement you're getting ripped off. ....business model of the leisure market..

Never believe a manufacturer's claims, test yer power gubbins folks (and not with the meters provided by the manufacturer of the same product ffshakes!). You'll find very little does what it's supposed to..

« Last Edit: March 08, 2019, 08:54:51 PM by Scruff » Logged
Scruff
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« Reply #281 on: March 08, 2019, 04:15:17 PM »

In defense of Sterling they do get better SG results than most...only ~5% shy of MorningStar capability with a quarter the reliability. Them Schlicktrons and ApprenticeVolts....downright shameful at charging....
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knighty
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« Reply #282 on: March 08, 2019, 08:14:20 PM »

Scruff.... I think I love you :-o


I'm forever telling people not to bother with split charge relays or battery to battery chargers and to fit a big solenoid between their batteries instead, set to power up when the engine runs   (easier on older stuff when you can wire to alternator warning light circuit)   they're only doing low power stuff in hobby use camper vans or work vans with an extra battery to power some lights

and I'm forever being shot down for saying that :-(
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Scruff
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« Reply #283 on: March 08, 2019, 08:38:09 PM »

Scruff.... I think I love you :-o

 Kiss


and I'm forever being shot down for saying that :-(

Me too! I stopped wasting my breath on numpties a while back. They pick the colour of their boxes and then matching them is all that matters. Rebuttals usually consist of what the marketing department said about their own product verified by a green led and an uncalibrated voltmeter reading.  facepalm

My FLA are 5yo and breaking all the rules on battery university and popular opinion in terms of health, service life, charge rate, efficiency....dya know why? because most of the info out there is based on implementing systems that never worked outtov the gates..

As regards the contactor...I cheated. The B sense is on the downstream engine battery while the B+ is first to the service battery. I Y'd from the alternator too rather than spurring the engine battery.
If you do that wrong you'll boil yer battery, if you do it right you can shame the shyte outtov 500 over-hyped power electronic boxes.  ballspin

I don't like the D+ triggered setup. Dropping a 3hp load on a poly-V belt with a cold idling engine is asking for trouble. O course that's only gonna be a problem if you know what yer doin'

Most split charge systems are fused at 20A with a 10A abortion fridge downstream... Roll Eyes



Latest news, now I've proven to my own satisfaction I can make FLA perform as well as Li-ion for a quarter the price?

I'm gerrin' a pylontech... Shocked (orra a CALB bank tbd)
Gonna start tinkering with LiFePO4....because I actually have an application that justifies the light-weightedness.

Sorry Biffer, I'm about to build a mobile set that'll knock the socks off yer direct drive set... Wink

3kWh, 2.4kVA, no dino juice, no noise, waterproof, use it indoors, power filtering....souper smanchy!
Featuring the ApprenticeVolt Mass Combi of olden times....
I'm just after pony-ing up fer a USB interface so I can change the charge profile...180 feckerin' squids for what ought to be an integrated feature...
Hey MorningStar how much is your proprietary USB interface?....40!...yurp...no comment!  
« Last Edit: March 08, 2019, 08:40:41 PM by Scruff » Logged
biff
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An unpaid Navitron volunteer who lives off-grid.


« Reply #284 on: March 08, 2019, 09:10:13 PM »

 Grin Grin Grin,
       Sorry Scruff, You are too late. I done away with directy drivey and went 4rib belt and pulleys, Got a decent result.
   Then went key start Lifan 6.5 horse  with lovely sweet Beemer 180amp alt...Oooooooo.. Eeee |Ba Gum you will have bother knocking the socks of this baby Scruff.
     It runs Grinders on full power ticking over, starts with a little half pull under load and when I am cutting steel with it, It does not even break a sweat on quarter revs.
 Alt is N47, so its really good and 2kw would be no bother to it. It has twin internal fans. I am thinking of moving out to the shed and sleeping next to it. but it is dam,d windy tonight.
                                 Biff
  Err Forgot to add, I will be fitting it with the Ghass conversion kit. It is supposed to be the cleanest of all bar RE.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2019, 09:15:01 PM by biff » Logged

An unpaid Navitron volunteer,who has been living off-grid,powered by wind and solar,each year better than the last one.
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