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Author Topic: Grid Hopping  (Read 89898 times)
biff
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« Reply #45 on: February 21, 2017, 11:36:07 AM »

Hi Scruff,
     The white powder is efflorescence caused by heavy damp penetration at one time. The rain gets into the center of the bricks and pushes the salt/etc to the face of the brick where it forms a fuzz or efflorescence. It is easy washed off and harmless enough in the open but not healthy to live inside with., You might have rain pushing down past the flashing round the chimney.
  Only canaries called Donald will work these days.
                                                        Biff
  If you have a stack on the opposite side, it can still leak into your side, the internal flues are only separated by a 4" brick not a 9" like the party wall.
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camillitech
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« Reply #46 on: February 23, 2017, 07:53:58 AM »

Nice work Scruff,

PS..MorningStar if you are reading this, that's another bl%0$#*y stoopid place to put an rs232 port.

Aye the PWM one isn't much better either, you have to lop a corner off the plug to insert most of them  banghead

Is this the one you got cheap off eBlag last year Scruff?
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'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SMA SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 9kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
biff
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« Reply #47 on: February 23, 2017, 09:30:51 AM »

Good stuff Scruff,
               Don,t worry, I was keeping an eye on you, just in case you needed help.
 On a more serious note, That is an excellent move and bound to be very helpful to other MorningStar MPPT owners who run into similar bother.
                                                        Biff
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camillitech
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« Reply #48 on: February 23, 2017, 09:35:24 AM »

Hi Scruff, it's coming back to me now, I remember you telling us the saga and mentioning the log right enough. Re the RS232/USB, RS 232 is much better and an 'inustry standard' for this type of work, something to do with isolation? I'm sure someone on here witll know better than I. Everything on our ship is RS232 and it was really frustrating at first as our laptop had no RS232 port and most RS232/USB converters are 5h1te.
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'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SMA SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 9kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
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« Reply #49 on: February 23, 2017, 10:10:54 AM »

RS232 is just favoured as it uses differential voltage levels with a much wider spread
So instead of USB signalling a zero with 0.00.3 V and  a one with 2.83.6 V , RS232 uses -3 to -25V for one and +3 to +25V for zero.
As a result it's far more immune to noise in an industrial environment.
Oh and the low data rates help too of course.
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« Reply #50 on: February 23, 2017, 11:43:00 AM »

...So my battery was powering the PV at night..hence the filling a bucket with a hole in it and the inductor howling feedback loop...

I am a firm advocate of fitting a Schottky diode to each branch of a combiner system. Would this help prevent a future occurrence of 'drain-back' in future?  whistlie
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« Reply #51 on: February 23, 2017, 12:27:49 PM »

RS232 went outtov fashion in 1998.  They're a bit like manual car window winders...
[Edit:] Ah now I see Fionn's post..err yeah ok that's fair enuff considering...TriStars are noisy blighters.



And what is wrong with manual window winders  fingers crossed!

All the systems on oor ferry (2013) from a load of differernt suppliers worldwide are RS232 for programming and interogation. Battery management system from Finland, Power management system from Germany, Energy management system from Holland. I kinda though there must be a good reason for it, cos it annoyed the feck out of me at first Scruff. It's a real PITA if you don't have RS232 on your laptop cos most of the converters are carp  banghead
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« Reply #52 on: February 23, 2017, 12:55:58 PM »

...Look at the power you lose due to the Vf of the diode then compare it to the power you lose not having one and see how much difference it makes. To be honest it was the horrible ringing noise that upset me more than anything else...

...Look at the entire system you lose when the shed/wshop/house catches fire from a failed/overheated/burned-up component. I have always tried to follow what I learned, i.e. fail-safe may waste power, but safety comes first in my household. To be honest it would be the horrible fire-engine siren noise that would upset me more than anything else...

Select your diode by current, V f and T op. I'd rather have power-loss than house loss!
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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
New (Old) 8S7P LiFe battery, 105Ah @ 26.4V
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
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« Reply #53 on: February 23, 2017, 01:00:51 PM »

RS232 is just favoured as it uses differential voltage levels with a much wider spread
RS232 is single ended.  RS422/485 is differential,  485 being multidrop.  IIRC 485 is used to interconnect SMA gear.
At least tristar don't fit a usb connector for their rs232 connection unlike a certain brain donor pressure cell manufacturer, even if it is hard to get to.
232 ain't bad in industrial, but 485 is the correct one to use for permanent installs.  Quick too.
None of them offer isolation as standard, but isolators are cheap.
The best rs232 usb converters I've used are based around the ftdi ft232.  However, unless you buy it from ftdi, they will be carp clones.  2nd best is the cp210x which doesn't seem to be cloned, and third, but no slouch is the ch340 which is Chinese, so probably no clones exist yet? The ch340 is fitted to a lot of arduino stuff.

Doesn't work every time scruff, but a hotplate set to around 150C to get the board up to temp for a few mins will help the hot air no end, as you then only need to heat the components another 70 or so. If I know it's going to be a real sob I'll set the hot air to 450, max flow. Then turn the hotplate off and let the board cool down slowly.
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jonesy
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« Reply #54 on: February 24, 2017, 01:40:35 PM »

Hmm. I'm a bit jealous.
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« Reply #55 on: February 24, 2017, 04:31:20 PM »

Ah don't be Jonesy...come visit! ...plenty of electrical challenges and gear needing testing to go around. Bring your screwdrivers...or your reflow station whichever you prefer.  Smiley

French wine  Grin
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'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SMA SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 9kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
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« Reply #56 on: February 25, 2017, 11:59:59 AM »

Oh how I wish I had time to tinker around with all my projects  wackoold wackoold
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Iain
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« Reply #57 on: February 26, 2017, 10:04:10 AM »

Hi

Quote
.I decided to series the switches to reduce the risk of arcing, switch wear and reduce the overall current per contact.

Don't understand that. Surely as the contacts are in series, the current will be the same through each contact.

If you have them in parallel the current will be reduced.

If the PV is on 9&12
GTI on 1&4
PWM on 8&5
Iain
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Tinbum
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« Reply #58 on: February 26, 2017, 10:59:38 AM »

Hi

Quote
.I decided to series the switches to reduce the risk of arcing, switch wear and reduce the overall current per contact.

Don't understand that. Surely as the contacts are in series, the current will be the same through each contact.

If you have them in parallel the current will be reduced.

If the PV is on 9&12
GTI on 1&4
PWM on 8&5
Iain

Its done in all of my PV DC breakers by the manufactures. The more in series the higher the voltage rating.
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« Reply #59 on: February 26, 2017, 02:46:57 PM »

Just have a squint again at the datasheet for that mh2.  Omron isn't alone in putting the approved power ratings towards the back, with great headline figures at the front. So whilst they state 110v/5A, they don't mean at the same time.  It's true the relay will take 110vdc, but on the endurance curves they don't go above 24v. The tuv rating does not permit dc at all, American 30v. You're in series, but you're well beyond 30v per contact.
Suck it and see, but don't put too much money on it.

You don't want my French wine. The diesel is cheaper and tastes better. Currently paying 1.30/l for French red, about 1.10 for Spanish wine mountain.  Hangover is much worse on spanish.  White is 80c a bottle and the glass is worth more. Hangover starts with the cork pull.
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