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Author Topic: Grid Hopping  (Read 91212 times)
Iain
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« Reply #60 on: February 26, 2017, 03:32:31 PM »

Hi Scruff

All clear now, it was just the way it was worded, Thanks


Hi Tinbum
Quote
Hi

Quote
.I decided to series the switches to reduce the risk of arcing, switch wear and reduce the overall current per contact.

Don't understand that. Surely as the contacts are in series, the current will be the same through each contact.

If you have them in parallel the current will be reduced.

If the PV is on 9&12
GTI on 1&4
PWM on 8&5
Iain

Its done in all of my PV DC breakers by the manufactures. The more in series the higher the voltage rating.


Yes the more in series the higher the voltage rating, but he said, series to:-
Quote
reduce the overall current per contact.

depends what you are trying to reduce, voltage or current
Parallel reduces current/contact
Series reduces voltage / contact

Iain
« Last Edit: February 26, 2017, 03:36:19 PM by Iain » Logged

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Tinbum
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« Reply #61 on: February 26, 2017, 07:26:10 PM »

Hi Scruff

All clear now, it was just the way it was worded, Thanks


Hi Tinbum
Quote
Hi

Quote
.I decided to series the switches to reduce the risk of arcing, switch wear and reduce the overall current per contact.

Don't understand that. Surely as the contacts are in series, the current will be the same through each contact.

If you have them in parallel the current will be reduced.

If the PV is on 9&12
GTI on 1&4
PWM on 8&5
Iain

Its done in all of my PV DC breakers by the manufactures. The more in series the higher the voltage rating.


Yes the more in series the higher the voltage rating, but he said, series to:-
Quote
reduce the overall current per contact.

depends what you are trying to reduce, voltage or current
Parallel reduces current/contact
Series reduces voltage / contact

Iain

Ah yes, I should have read it slower.
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jonesy
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« Reply #62 on: March 01, 2017, 02:11:52 PM »

Boomstick eh? Man after my own heart with all that insulation tape.
That driver chip is nice.  I came across them a month or so ago, but they're been around a few years. They make a nice compact mains to 5v psu with no transformers with virtually no idle current, so ideal for wifi projects.
The figures stamped on that relay are the ul/vde figures, RS, Farnell etc just copy the datasheet headline figures which are always pie in the sky.  Achievable, but as one very big manufacturer explained to me a long time ago, you have to do your own testing once you use it outside the vde rating.  They didn't hold up much hope for the application I had in mind for 300+ relays that I needed.
With your revised method, just keep an eye on it.  You soon see the pitting building up.If you like that ozone smell and can tolerate a shorted contact, go with it  Grin You'll be fine.
A smd rework probably won't touch a through hole power socket.  I've had to replace a few (don't ask) and the easiest method is to dremel the socket apart, then use a 50W iron to unsolder the bits left. If you have a 75W+ desolder station, that will be quicker. The pcb will be multi layer, so don't be tempted to heat and rock the part out if it have more than 2 pins; you'll just remove the through hole plating with too much force.
Stick a few diodes in series with that led magnifier.  When it was made, they over drive the leds by a fair bit.  Running at 5v may finish it off pdq. There may be a CC chip in there; a ikea lamp I hacked did.  Completely amazed me.
Where do you find the time to do this stuff?
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todthedog
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« Reply #63 on: March 02, 2017, 07:20:43 AM »

A fantastic post, and a labour of love.  genuflect
A bit above my head.
Beautifully illustrated as well I love pictures.
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camillitech
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« Reply #64 on: March 02, 2017, 07:27:40 AM »

Nice to see you at work Scruff, specially on this Studer, look after a couple myself and have always been very impressed by their performance. One of them has run a large (sleeps 10-12) 'off grid' holiday let for 15 years continuously with no issues apart from the manual being worse than any Chinese translation so good luck with RTFM  hysteria
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biff
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« Reply #65 on: March 02, 2017, 10:37:08 AM »

  Addictive Scriff,
                  But here is my latest burthday pressie,



  This is quite handy, On the back of the transformer on the left,there is a jumper that  goes from 240ac to 120ac or 220ac to 110ac. The fitting are Texan and of course the US 120ac voltage.
It is also a step up,reversing the procedure. There is only one thing wrong with the design and that is there is no warning to users to not forget to plug in the 120ac to the left socket and not on the right 240ac one. It does create quite a bang if the 120ac is plugged into the 240ac.Apart from that,it is a quite little thing and barely gets warm.I will be plugging the right socket with one of those white plastic blanks,,,,,,,permanently.
  MADE IN CHINA,! Grin  ( and very well finished)
                                          Biff
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todthedog
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« Reply #66 on: March 03, 2017, 07:10:15 AM »

Happy Birthday Biff.

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biff
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« Reply #67 on: March 03, 2017, 09:03:47 AM »

  Thank you Tod,
              It was all very nice and civilised. 60 is fine and 65 is OK but with 70, I am knocking on the wrong door but keep knocking. It is horrible. Hopefully i will forget it all in a few weeks Grin

  Aye scruff, I think the whole thing is 50 and 60 hertz compliant. The battery charger is 120ac x60hertz. So I am told. It does work beautifully, No hums or getting warm so I am assuming that that is a good sign.I will also check the specs on the box.
 
                                      Biff
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camillitech
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« Reply #68 on: March 04, 2017, 07:43:02 AM »

Nice one Scruff  genuflect
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'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SMA SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 9kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
biff
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« Reply #69 on: March 04, 2017, 09:13:47 AM »

  Wow Scruff,
            There are an awful lot of different thingwaybobbers involved, If you get  stuck, PM me and I can give you a fair old accurate weather forecast for your area,
 I would love to be able to dissemble, find the fault, fix and assemble correctly. Washing machines, Dishwashers,Lecky cooker,s , Gas cookers and even fridge freezers,, I could fix but a peep into such wonders sent a chill into my heart,,"RETREAT"  it screams at me.
  I had a good friend who started off fixing Grandfather clocks and then bailers and then grey Diesels..Locally he was an acclaimed genius and rightly so. Then he was asked to fix the injector pump on an early Audi diesel while on the engine, It was running lumpy.Looking down from above, He saw a 12mm bolt head on the side of the pump. He assumed, like you or me would that it was a bleeder. He pulled it loose with a ring spanner, It was very stiff but he manage it. That bolt was Audi,s early dirty trick. It held the rack to the internal pump wall and when removed was impossible to replace without removing the pump and stripping down the whole lot.Then he had to explain to the owners that it was not running at all at all. Grin. When I look at your detailed workings, I marvel and admire and hope to acquire a smidgen of your talent but still,,,,,,,,,,There are an awfuuuul lot of thingwaybobbers to remember, fingers crossed!
                                                                                        Biff
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Tombo
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« Reply #70 on: March 04, 2017, 09:44:29 AM »

Excellent stuff Scruff!
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jonesy
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« Reply #71 on: March 08, 2017, 11:56:00 AM »

Blimey Scruff, slow down. I've been away 2 days and I come back to war and peace in colour.

A few thoughts
The temperature sensor could be a simple diode. Reverse biased they make a very cheap, simple and fairly accurate sensor. That lead out of the toroid could be a sensor, or a once only go/nogo sensor.  I don't think it's a voltage tap as the resistance is way too low for the tiny wire; However, it could be a current tap across say 20 turns. Does it have a resistance to the primary/secondary?  That could fit in with the darlington. 1 UPS I have got a bit warm (aka I could smell the varnish and it was melting)The internal sensor went s/c. I cant replace it as it is inside, so it's now a 10k resistor and a large warning notice.
I have a 3kva ups which monitors fan current.  If the inlet is blocked the fan pulls more current.
Those resistors need inserting, I'd say.  They don't look like dry joints (so might have dropped out). Manufacturing defect.  I'd be tempted to send the pic to Studer and ask for QA comment
Earth strap. Please tell me you have a 1M resistor in the plug top, else you are angling for a proper belt across the heart. Or fit it to an ankle, but be prepared for it to trip you up! You can get the proper thing for 1 from china with the resistor built in. Hmm, unless that is a small clip and a small loop of wire.  Grin
Bracing for criticism.  Does the back box need earthing?  I have since lugs were fitted, but the screw heads pick up earth from the socket. IIRC light switches dont earth the heads.
Are you still using lead solder?  I went lead free last century, but avoid the fumes anyway.  I keep a roll of leaded around as it melts at a lower temp and flows better.
I use trichloroethane or MEK for flux removal or IPA if I don't want my fingers to melt. Acetone aint bad and comes in 1L bottles for 1 here.
I can't imagine where that unit was installed for that dusty layer. Was it conducting, or just carp from a self destructing fan.  The fans should be installed to suck in the air through a filter, then the exhaust will push warm air out of any available orifices. Do it the other way and you suck in carp through gaps.
You can risk leaving that dodgy cap out of circuit (assuming there are others in parallel) until it is working.  Just don't work it too hard but you'll be fine (aka I'll be fine sitting a few thousand km from you if it goes bang)
To power that beast up, you can charge the caps through say a 100R/50W resistor, and you might even be able to run it with that in circuit. At no load, the resistor will run hotish. Stick an analogue meter across the resistor and if you hear the needle hitting the end stop, kill the supply. Alternatively if you have a big lab supply with a variable current limit, you can set it to 24V/1A and insert it into circuit in place of 2 batteries. The 'remaining' 24V left if the Studer pulls too much juice shouldn't cause too much smoke.

eblaggers that lie about products really get my goat; I bought a megger that 'worked some times' and it was completely and utterly fried inside. Worse, they had attempted a repair. Luckily for me, they'd lost a few bits in re-assembling it, so it was incomplete.  Got an immediate refund from the guy, despite the ad saying no refunds, so he knew it was junk.
The US market has a tendency to make 120V only products (not even 100 for Japan) as it is massive (350 million trump voters cant be wrong) If you are knocking out a few thousand, then it makes economic sense to just fix as 120V and save 10p on each one.
Nice use of the back light.

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camillitech
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« Reply #72 on: March 08, 2017, 03:18:24 PM »

Blimey Scruff, slow down. I've been away 2 days and I come back to war and peace in colour.




He has 'slowed down' Jonesy, not heard from in for two nights now, was missing my morning fix of 'tales from the loft'  Grin
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jonesy
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« Reply #73 on: March 08, 2017, 04:17:07 PM »

He has 'slowed down' Jonesy, not heard from in for two nights now, was missing my morning fix of 'tales from the loft'  Grin

D'you think we should call someone to go over and plug him back in?
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« Reply #74 on: March 08, 2017, 04:29:32 PM »

He has 'slowed down' Jonesy, not heard from in for two nights now, was missing my morning fix of 'tales from the loft'  Grin

D'you think we should call someone to go over and plug him back in?


Either that or put another coin in his meter  Grin
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http://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/

'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SMA SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 9kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
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