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Author Topic: Grid Hopping  (Read 61028 times)
jonesy
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« Reply #150 on: March 10, 2017, 02:08:51 PM »

See if you can get a bigger bit for that iron.  The fine tip is fine for SMD, but hopeless for anything with a large copper trace.  I've got 3mm chisel bits on the 50W iron which I'll wind up to 450C to shift stuff quickly, otherwise  ~250C.  Oddly, the older the solder the more heat it needs to get it going, then it's ok once refreshed.
My go to repair iron is the 50W Weller TCP S, which is 24V AC, but I use it off DC most of the time. Has a wide range of temperature controlled bits. They come up on eblag all the time, but you don't need to buy the trafo. Then when I need extra heat it's an old 50W Antex station that goes to 450C. For mucking around with stripboard it's a 15W antex.

Do check the DC/DC on that Studer is powering the logic; you should get the display etc.  If you've accidentally replaced a normal electrolytic with a low ESR, then it's possible (unlikely) that it can't put in enough umph to achieve the 5V rail. Does the heatsink form part of the circuit like it does with most of the APC range? I recently repaired a cordless drill charger.  It took way more hours than I could charge (in beer) but I wouldn't let it go.  Turned out that the DC/DC traffo had 2 open circuits on the legs, which I reckoned occurred when it was dropped. Very fine wire.
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1.1kWp PV & SB1700. 7kW log burner.
Scruff
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« Reply #151 on: March 10, 2017, 02:22:43 PM »

Camper Lektrix

Here's a draft I made earlier.
It's not my setup it's I guess the never gonna happen final evolution with more lead, an electric fridge and more PV. I run eyeballable water tanks and bottled gas.



Alternator




Bolt on swap stock 45A for 150A outtov one of these.



60A max peak seen at engine idle.

Cab Voltmeter




Redundant Split Charge manual enable with PV Isolator


(80A contactor switched at TriStar runs primary split charge Alternator + PV over 90mm2 cable broke down to 35mm2)



150W PV





Spring Harvest



Summer Harvest



Autumn Harvest



Winter Harvest



Shore Power



Leads, Adaptors, Tester.



Mains Incoming



Chocy Tea Pot


Never graduated field testing.
7W @ 7m/s, so noisey... wackoold

Battery Monitor
 


Distribution LHS



Distribution RHS


235Ah @ 12V


Last health check after 3 years service.


Overhead Lighting MR16 LEDs
Automatic Mains / 12VDC Power selection with priority to mains.



2 x Two Way switched circuits
1 x Single switched
1 x PWM Dimmer

Dimmers





Dimmer Controller



LED Strip





12VDC & USB (1 x 1A & 1 x 2.1A) Outlets



c/w laptop PSU

Reserve Laptop Power



Fresh & Half-size Grey Water tanks



w/ submersible 12VDC water pump.
17/L per minute

Butane cooking and stoopid absorption refridgeration.
2kW WBS
Base load; 0.5W

* 12V Int. Duty.pdf (233.45 KB - downloaded 77 times.)
« Last Edit: March 11, 2017, 07:35:39 PM by Scruff » Logged
Scruff
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« Reply #152 on: March 10, 2017, 02:35:25 PM »

See if you can get a bigger bit for that iron.

I have one...I call it a blunderbuss...suppose it has uses after all. The fine tip is good for a solder sucking heated check valve.

Oddly, the older the solder the more heat it needs to get it going, then it's ok once refreshed.

Yurp, noticed that...probably lead-free too.

Do check the DC/DC on that Studer is powering the logic; you should get the display etc.  If you've accidentally replaced a normal electrolytic with a low ESR, then it's possible (unlikely) that it can't put in enough umph to achieve the 5V rail. Does the heatsink form part of the circuit like it does with most of the APC range? I recently repaired a cordless drill charger.  It took way more hours than I could charge (in beer) but I wouldn't let it go.  Turned out that the DC/DC traffo had 2 open circuits on the legs, which I reckoned occurred when it was dropped. Very fine wire.

I'll get back to it in April. Yeah I thimpk most of the caps were lower, I'll check the e-waste how over zealous I was. Mostly I replaced low esr with low esr and cheapos with cheapos. Happy accident with stock availability.

As far as I can tell the heat sink is the bus is the chassis.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2017, 02:48:16 PM by Scruff » Logged
Scruff
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« Reply #153 on: March 10, 2017, 09:47:32 PM »

LAAAADDDDdies aaaaaaaaaaand Gentlemen...

...New to the Frontline of Cheap A$$ Fuses
Behold the self-reloading blade fuse!



Series fuse it upstream for cascading isolation.
This sleek low profile design is the ultimate fire and forget protective device! No more bulky bags of electrical salvation cluttering the glovey!
 


When you need one, you know you need one!
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todthedog
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« Reply #154 on: March 11, 2017, 07:06:57 AM »

 extrahappy Really enjoying this thread.
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Tinbum
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« Reply #155 on: March 11, 2017, 08:45:39 AM »

extrahappy Really enjoying this thread.
ditto laugh
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biff
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« Reply #156 on: March 11, 2017, 09:17:17 AM »

Excellent stuff Scruff, fingers crossed!
                         Biff
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Scruff
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« Reply #157 on: March 11, 2017, 08:23:39 PM »

Oh dear...







Belly of the Beast


















Shore Power:

















Command



Rearside Command













Breaker Panel Rear
115VAC 50hz






 

50A ish amp alternator? External fan low RPM job. On 2.5mm2 cable.
No battery charger. 6W amorphous PV.

  bike
« Last Edit: March 11, 2017, 08:41:13 PM by Scruff » Logged
rogeriko
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« Reply #158 on: March 11, 2017, 09:45:20 PM »

I do hope you havn't gone and bought a boat. A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into. I used to fix Mercruisers, actually factory authorised, I hope I never have to talk to another customer in my life.
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Scruff
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« Reply #159 on: March 11, 2017, 10:33:36 PM »

Not my hole in the water. ballspin
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camillitech
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« Reply #160 on: March 12, 2017, 07:33:30 AM »

Not my hole in the water. ballspin

Golly gosh Scruff, you had me worried there for a moment, thought you'd lost yer sanity. The only thing more expensive to maintain than a boat is a boat with an outdrive  hysteria and the only outdrive more expensive to maintain than a Volvo one is a Mercruiser one  hysteria I had a fishing boat with a 140HP Volvo outdrive (really bad move for a commercial application) and it cost me almost as much in anodes as fuel  hysteria I cannae sea a header tank on that, it's not 'raw water' cooled is it, the big Volvo V8's were for some reason, really, really bad move that if it's in the sea.

Have fun, Paul
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http://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/

'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 4.75kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
biff
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« Reply #161 on: March 12, 2017, 09:19:49 AM »

Ah But it is an american 120ac boat,
                               I could use it to run my 120ac chargers that charge the batteries in my new Texan cordless power tools.
I would not have to use my step down transformer,,Mind you, I have got to like it. I would be really handy.
I could launch the boat every time I need a charge, or have the outboard sitting in a barrel o water. Or maybe not. Roll Eyes
                                                                      Biff
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roys
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« Reply #162 on: March 12, 2017, 11:37:35 AM »

As someone once told me "the two happiest days of my life is the day I bought my boat and the day I sold it"
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Scruff
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« Reply #163 on: March 12, 2017, 04:35:45 PM »

it's not 'raw water' cooled is it


Yurp.
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camillitech
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« Reply #164 on: March 12, 2017, 04:47:47 PM »

it's not 'raw water' cooled is it


Yurp.

 facepalm
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http://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/

'Off grid' since 1985,  Proven 2.5kW, Proven 6kW direct heating, SI6.OH, 800ah Rolls, 4.75kW PV ,4xTS45, Lister HR2 12kW, , Powerspout pelton, Stream Engine turgo, 60 x Navitron toobs and a 1500lt store. Outback VFX3048 and 950ah forklifts for backup,
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