navitron
 
Renewable Energy and Sustainability Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Anyone wishing to register as a new member on the forum is strongly recommended to use a "proper" email address - following recent spam/hack attempts on the forum, all security is set to "high", and "disposable" email addresses like Gmail, Yahoo and Hotmail tend to be viewed with suspicion, and the application rejected if there is any doubt whatsoever
 
Recent Articles: Navitron Partners With Solax to Help Create A More Sustainable Future | Navitron Calls for Increased Carbon Footprint Reduction In Light of Earth Overshoot Day | A plea from The David School - Issue 18
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Relocating inverter to a cooler location  (Read 664 times)
garethpuk
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 175


« on: May 12, 2017, 11:01:21 AM »



Morning all,

I'm looking at relocating our inverter as it runs too hot on sunny days and the output start to drops at 50 deg c to stop it frying itself, I've attached a rough 'end on' sketch to show where the panels are and where the inverter is - both in red.

My current plan is to move it to the green location which is lower down and under the roof which is facing east and is cooler in the afternoon when the pv output is highest.

Does that look ok?

Also I need to extend the DC cables by 5m with around 2m through a duct in an area filled with loft insulation, I've used a couple of online calculators and 2.5mm cable would seem adequate but 4mm seems cheap enough that I thought I may as well use 4mm.
Logged
brackwell
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2418


« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2017, 11:22:26 AM »

All sounds jolly good and the inverter will hopefully last longer. I guess the AC side is just as convenient and the leccy reading man will be able to read inverter and generation meter.

Ken
Logged
Sean
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 594


« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2017, 11:31:02 AM »



Also I need to extend the DC cables by 5m with around 2m through a duct in an area filled with loft insulation, I've used a couple of online calculators and 2.5mm cable would seem adequate but 4mm seems cheap enough that I thought I may as well use 4mm.

2.5mm for the DC side would be rather unusual - perhaps you mean the AC ?
Logged
garethpuk
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 175


« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2017, 12:14:50 PM »



Also I need to extend the DC cables by 5m with around 2m through a duct in an area filled with loft insulation, I've used a couple of online calculators and 2.5mm cable would seem adequate but 4mm seems cheap enough that I thought I may as well use 4mm.

2.5mm for the DC side would be rather unusual - perhaps you mean the AC ?

Ah, I didn't realize 2.5 wasn't a common size for DC as the online calcs I used were for AC - I've just used one for DC and it comes back with 1.5mm as suitable but I cant find a DC calculator that includes insulation and temperature derating.

I'm thinking 4mm should be ok in insulation and at higher background temperatures in the attic as its capacity is apparently 32amps and I'll be running a max of 8amps from each string to the inverter.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2017, 01:26:22 PM by garethpuk » Logged
garethpuk
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 175


« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2017, 12:17:10 PM »

All sounds jolly good and the inverter will hopefully last longer. I guess the AC side is just as convenient and the leccy reading man will be able to read inverter and generation meter.

Ken

Ta, the AC side wont change much but will be around 5m shorter with the meter in the same place. I could in theory move the inverter to the garage but routing four DC cables instead of one AC could be a nightmare.
Logged
Sean
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 594


« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2017, 12:34:00 PM »



Also I need to extend the DC cables by 5m with around 2m through a duct in an area filled with loft insulation, I've used a couple of online calculators and 2.5mm cable would seem adequate but 4mm seems cheap enough that I thought I may as well use 4mm.

2.5mm for the DC side would be rather unusual - perhaps you mean the AC ?

Ah, I didn't realize 2.5 wasn't a common size for DC as the online calcs I used were for AC - I've just used one for DC and it comes back with 1.5mm as suitable but I cant find a DC calculator that includes insulation and temperature derating.

I'm thinking 4mm should be ok in insulation and at higher background temperatures in the attic as its capacity is apparently 32amp and I'll be running a max of 8 from each string to the inverter.

You also need to consider the voltage at which your string will be running - don't use AC cable calculators.

There's plenty of 6mm PV cable on eBay .......
Logged
paul149
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 635


« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2017, 01:15:04 PM »

I too was concerened that the loft was too hot an enviroment for my inverter and placed some thermometers up there to check temps and last summer it did a few times get upto the mid 40's. this was still iirc within the operating specs of the inverter and it has never derated itself due to temp.
So I positioned a couple of 120mm 12v PC case cooling fans underneath the inverter ( SMA Sunny Boy SB3000TL) connected via an old wall wart from an answer machine via a plug-in timer to run approx 10am-9pm. although this only 'moves' the ambient air it does have a noticeable effect on cooling the heatsink on the rear of the inverter.
Logged

3.5 kWp (14 x Sanyo H250E01 + SB3000TL) 225' (SW) at 35' Pitch Lat 51.30' (Bristol) Installed cost 2.63/Wp (Nov 2011) now with solarimmersion and 250L unvented dhw (Very Little gas input for DHW from Apr to mid Sep)
TT
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2017, 06:56:54 PM »

Personally I would vent the loft space on a fan controlled by a thermostat.
Electronics don't like heat so  anything to remove is a great thing

Moving all the equipment will invalidate the certification.
Logged
going green
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 534


« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2017, 09:54:35 PM »

before i hung our sb2500 on the inner wall i core cut a 4" hole through the wall and put an all weather air vent on it then cable tied some stainless steel wool to keep the creepy crawlers out

like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-cowl-vent-white-x/16195
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!